47Ford 8n starter switch wiring

Now I got a problem. After hooking everything up as described I had nothing. So I jumped the solenoid and it started right up but my switch won't cut it off and I disconnected the battery & it's still running??
 
Jim this may sound stupid but what is that indicator light telling me ? That the alternator is working?
First function of the indicator light. Used in the exciter wire of a three-wire alternator the light will be on if the alternator is not producing power and will go out if it is producing power. When the alternator is stopped or not producing power one wire of the light is supplied with power from the ignition switch and the alternator #1 spade terminal circuit in the alternator acts as a ground for the second wire of the light. When the alternator is turning and producing power the alternator puts a small amount of power out on that #1 spade terminal, canceling the ground for the second wire of the light so the light goes out.

Second function of the light is to stop power (due to the resistance it provides) from the alternator from back feeding to the ignition switch, which can send power into the ignition system when the key is turned off allowing the engine to keep running. A properly sized diode or resistor can be used in that wire to prevent that feedback, if one does not want to use a light.
 
Jim this may sound stupid but what is that indicator light telling me ? That the alternator is working?
Ya it would if you mount it in the dash but you have an ammeter. That circuit energizes the “excite” circuit in the internal regulator when you turn the key on and start the engine. When the tractor is running and the alternator is charging that circuit also remains energize by the alternator. If that is not in there or a diode or resistor is not used in the circuit when you turn the engine off the tractor will keep running on the charge from the alternator powering the coil/distributor. Well I see Jim or someone probably beat me so this may be a repeat.
Edit: I generally recommend the bulb and socket. When you say diode or resistor the average tractor lay person freaks out and over thinks those items as to technical.
 
Now I got a problem. After hooking everything up as described I had nothing. So I jumped the solenoid and it started right up but my switch won't cut it off and I disconnected the battery & it's still running??
unplug the #1 spade terminal from the alternator and see if it stops
 
Had to unplug the coil wire to the resistor to get it to shut off. It was running great best in awhile but is my toggle switch bad because nothing at all happened in either position.??
 
Had to unplug the coil wire to the resistor to get it to shut off. It was running great best in awhile but is my toggle switch bad because nothing at all happened in either position.??
I
unplug the #1 spade terminal from the alternator and see if it stops
Hooked up different toggle switch Jim and the starter button went to working! It's running like a sewing machine! Thanks for everything!
 
Jim I went to shut it off and the toggle switch doesn't shut it off. Had to disconnect the coil wire again. Any ideas?
 
I got a new 1 wire alternator for it but the pulley is to small. And I couldn't figure out how to get the pulley off the old one so I can't use it yet.
 
But something isn't right because 2 different toggle switches won't shut the engine off.
The wire on the toggle switch terminal OPPOSITE of the one going to the ammeter only powers the wire to the one side of the ballast resistor and the wire going to the 1 terminal on the alternator correct? And the opposite side of the resistor ONLY has the wire going distributor/coil on it. CORRECT??
 
Jim I went to shut it off and the toggle switch doesn't shut it off. Had to disconnect the coil wire again. Any ideas?
Did you wire it exactly like the sketch I marked up or just a bit different? I ask as the starter button in that sketch has nothing to do with the toggle (ignition) switch. If you are not using the alternator at present (and when you hook up the one wire alternator) you can remove the "red wire that should have the indicator light in it. your toggle switch will only have the wire from the ammeter supplying power to it on one terminal and the wire going to one side of the resistor on the other terminal. Is that what you have? the resistor only has the wire from the toggle switch on one terminal of the resistor and the wire going to the coil on the opposite terminal of the resistor. Is that what you have? the coil should not have any wire connected to it but the one from the resistor. Is that what you have?
 
Yes 1 toggle wire goes to the resistor and R1 alt terminal and 1 goes to the ammeter. It is on the same side as the bat terminal wire on the ammeter,does that make a difference? And yes there is only 1 wire going to the coil on the opposite side of the resistor.
The wire on the toggle switch terminal OPPOSITE of the one going to the ammeter only powers the wire to the one side of the ballast resistor and the wire going to the 1 terminal on the alternator correct? And the opposite side of the resistor ONLY has the wire going distributor/coil on it. CORRECT??

Did you wire it exactly like the sketch I marked up or just a bit different? I ask as the starter button in that sketch has nothing to do with the toggle (ignition) switch. If you are not using the alternator at present (and when you hook up the one wire alternator) you can remove the "red wire that should have the indicator light in it. your toggle switch will only have the wire from the ammeter supplying power to it on one terminal and the wire going to one side of the resistor on the other terminal. Is that what you have? the resistor only has the wire from the toggle switch on one terminal of the resistor and the wire going to the coil on the opposite terminal of the resistor. Is that what you have? the coil should not have any wire connected to it but the one from the resistor. Is that what you have?
Only 1 wire from coil to resistor but I have 1 toggle wire going to the opposite side of resistor and the R1 alt connection and the other toggle wire goes to the side of the ammeter that also has the black bat wire connected from the alternator.
 
Yes 1 toggle wire goes to the resistor and R1 alt terminal and 1 goes to the ammeter. It is on the same side as the bat terminal wire on the ammeter,does that make a difference? And yes there is only 1 wire going to the coil on the opposite side of the resistor.



Only 1 wire from coil to resistor but I have 1 toggle wire going to the opposite side of resistor and the R1 alt connection and the other toggle wire goes to the side of the ammeter that also has the black bat wire connected from the alternator.
For now, remove the wire going from the toggle to the R1 terminal from the toggle switch. That should leave just the power wire coming to one terminal of the toggle switch from the ammeter and the wire from the other terminal of the toggle switch going to one side of the resistor. Try that and see if it runs and shuts off.
 
S
Ya it would if you mount it in the dash but you have an ammeter. That circuit energizes the “excite” circuit in the internal regulator when you turn the key on and start the engine. When the tractor is running and the alternator is charging that circuit also remains energize by the alternator. If that is not in there or a diode or resistor is not used in the circuit when you turn the engine off the tractor will keep running on the charge from the alternator powering the coil/distributor. Well I see Jim or someone probably beat me so this may be a repeat.
Edit: I generally recommend the bulb and socket. When you say diode or resistor the average tractor lay person freaks out and over thinks those items as to tetechnical.
 
For now, remove the wire going from the toggle to the R1 terminal from the toggle switch. That should leave just the power wire coming to one terminal of the toggle switch from the ammeter and the wire from the other terminal of the toggle switch going to one side of the resistor. Try that and see if it runs and shuts off.
Yes Jim that worked. So I just need to get the indicator light in the system and then hook that R1 toggle wire back up?
 
The only thing different I believe is I don't have the indicator light in there yet.
When Jim told you to disconnect the #1 spade terminal from the alternator the tractor should have died if it was running. Or if you shut it off, left the wire disconnected and restarted it then it should have shut off with the toggle switch without hesitation. If it didn’t you are about to become a very wealthy man. All you have to do is figure out how your tractor powered that wire with nothing connected to it and multiply that by a couple thousand times and start selling power you have made out of nothing! :ROFLMAO: Sorry, when I feel frustration coming on I have to turn to humor!
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top