47Ford 8n starter switch wiring

[used red MN]

Yes Jim that worked. So I just need to get the indicator light in the system and then hook that R1 toggle wire back up?

If you’re going to put the one wire alternator on it you can forget about getting the indicator light. Be fore warned the one wire alternator may run the battery down if you let it set a month at a time. If you don’t have a 1/2 inch impact wrench you will have to find someone who does to change the alternator pulleys. You may be able to do it by holding the shaft with an Allen wrench if both are equipped with them. You will need a quality Allen wrench though.

 

[Jim.ME]

Yes Jim that worked. So I just need to get the indicator light in the system and then hook that R1 toggle wire back up?

Yes, you need an indicator light, diode or resistor in that wire to prevent a back feed from the alternator that will prevent the switch from shutting the engine off. used red MN and I have both told you that and shown it in sketches. If you are going to install that one wire alternator you do not need that wire so there is no need for getting a light, diode or resistor. The wire from the #2 spade to the battery post of the alternator goes away as well. There should be a plug over the spade terminals, if they are even there, that does not get removed.

Use a 15/16 socket and an impact wrench to remove the alternator pulley nuts. If you don't have an impact wrench take them to someone who does. The new alternator's pulley will likely slip right off. The one on your old alternator may be rusted and take a bit of persuasion but it should come off. Using a punch that fits inside the hex hole for an Allen type wrench can avoid damaging the rotor shaft threads. If the pulley is larger than about 2-1/2" to 2-3/4" in diameter you may want to get one that smaller diameter of the right width for your belt to put on the one wire alternator. In general, those alternators start charging better at higher rpms than a 3 wire, some newer ones are supposed to start charging at a lower rpm, it can vary.

 

[Jim.ME]

Yes Jim that worked. So I just need to get the indicator light in the system and then hook that R1 toggle wire back up?

If you want to put an indicator light in it for the time being, it has to be an incandescent lamp with two wires (insulated base) as it wires in series in the wire to the R1 spade terminal. LED lights in general will not pass the required current to work in the excitation circuit.

 

[used red MN]

If you want to put an indicator light in it for the time being, it has to be an incandescent lamp with two wires (insulated base) as it wires in series in the wire to the R1 spade terminal. LED lights in general will not pass the required current to work in the excitation circuit.

As my example given in reply 36 shows. Glad you have it working. Folks always like to question, why do I need this and why should I change that.. it worked like this before. It may have worked, but likely was not wired correctly for long term trouble free service. Too bad you missed out on selling that power you were making out of nothing.

 

[Turkey 54]

As my example given in reply 36 shows. Glad you have it working. Folks always like to question, why do I need this and why should I change that.. it worked like this before. It may have worked, but likely was not wired correctly for long term trouble free service. Too bad you missed out on selling that power you were making out of nothing.

Well I'm as dumb as a box of rocks when it comes to this stuff & I really appreciate your patience and Jim's in helping me understand how and why these things work! And sometimes I have to read something twice before I pick up on what I should have the first time. Thanks again to you and Jim! Everything seems to be slowing down on me at 70 !