49 Farmall H dies after a few minutes or after 30 yards quicker under load

Billiken Dad

New User
Thinking I have a fuel problem but any advice would be appreciated. Here is what I have done so far.

Replaced in-line fuel filter with a cheaper clear one and it is only filling 1/3 full. Replaced fuel line and have no in-line filter in place currently.
Cleaned out carb, blew out all the holes that would blow out. Not sure if a couple of the holes are clogged, but could not get carb cleaner or compressed air thru some smaller ones.
Took off the drain plug to bottom of carb and gas does come out but not a full stream. More of a unsteady stream.
Cleaned out the sediment bowl and cleaned off the strainer or mesh filter on top of sediment bowl.

Carb does leak until motor is running, ordering rebuild kit to replace the float valve, hope that is it, float seems good.

Thanks in advance for any advice.
 
When is your carb leaking - anytime the tractor is not running or while you are cranking it and it hasn't started. Carbs will leak gas with too much cranking but no start but should stop soon after you stop cranking. If it leaks all the time then you have a problem inside. Your problem of a dying tractor sounds like fuel. I would try to pull the carb plug as soon as it dies and see what comes out. I had similar problems with my H a few years ago and it was a problem of a glob of what looked like jelly plugging the outlet in the tank. I don't have any tractors with in line filters so no experience but I could see it being a problem. Need to decide for sure it its a gas flow problem and if so start working from the carb back to find out the issue. Some tractors have a screen at the carb that can get plugged up. My 300U has one and it got plugged up with what looked like mold and would run like your H is running. I had a F14 with similar issues and turned out the fuel line was almost corroded shut.
 
Appears you’re running out of gas. Have u checked the line at the carb to see if u have a full flow of gas ? To properly clean a carb it has to be taken all apart and soaked overnight in carb cleaner. Gunk is the stuff I use. Then washed in warm or cool water , then blown out. Then u can use that spray stuff to check the passages with air. The only full stream of gas I will get from the bottom of carb is for like 3-5 seconds till it empty’s the bowl. Then it will only be trickling in as the gas don’t flow that fast running through the seat. And also have u removed the sediment bowl from the tank to check the stand pipe for being plugged , ? As this can very well be the problem. You can feel the coil if it gets hot. But don’t think that your problem cause the tractor is not running long enough.
 
When is your carb leaking - anytime the tractor is not running or while you are cranking it and it hasn't started. Carbs will leak gas with too much cranking but no start but should stop soon after you stop cranking. If it leaks all the time then you have a problem inside. Your problem of a dying tractor sounds like fuel. I would try to pull the carb plug as soon as it dies and see what comes out. I had similar problems with my H a few years ago and it was a problem of a glob of what looked like jelly plugging the outlet in the tank. I don't have any tractors with in line filters so no experience but I could see it being a problem. Need to decide for sure it its a gas flow problem and if so start working from the carb back to find out the issue. Some tractors have a screen at the carb that can get plugged up. My 300U has one and it got plugged up with what looked like mold and would run like your H is running. I had a F14 with similar issues and turned out the fuel line was almost corroded shut.
Charlie- Leaking before and during start but not after start. I will look for that screen at the carb. I took out the filter currently just to make sure that isnt the issue. I will also check the copper line to make sure there are no clogs. Thanks for the advice.
 
Appears you’re running out of gas. Have u checked the line at the carb to see if u have a full flow of gas ? To properly clean a carb it has to be taken all apart and soaked overnight in carb cleaner. Gunk is the stuff I use. Then washed in warm or cool water , then blown out. Then u can use that spray stuff to check the passages with air. The only full stream of gas I will get from the bottom of carb is for like 3-5 seconds till it empty’s the bowl. Then it will only be trickling in as the gas don’t flow that fast running through the seat. And also have u removed the sediment bowl from the tank to check the stand pipe for being plugged , ? As this can very well be the problem. You can feel the coil if it gets hot. But don’t think that your problem cause the tractor is not running long enough.
Rusted- I have not checked the line at the carb lately. Makes sense. I did soak the carb in gas for a few hours after taking apart and then ran carp cleaner and compressed air. Have it off again and will take your advice. I will also check the stand pipe, thought I did that once, but just stuck a small wire up in there and didn't seem to have any resistence. I am guessing (hoping) my problem is on the top end, not at the carb. When the tractor dies, if I pull the choke it will save it at a rough idle (in neutral) for 30 seconds, but then dies abruptly. Thanks.
 
Rusted- I have not checked the line at the carb lately. Makes sense. I did soak the carb in gas for a few hours after taking apart and then ran carp cleaner and compressed air. Have it off again and will take your advice. I will also check the stand pipe, thought I did that once, but just stuck a small wire up in there and didn't seem to have any resistence. I am guessing (hoping) my problem is on the top end, not at the carb. When the tractor dies, if I pull the choke it will save it at a rough idle (in neutral) for 30 seconds, but then dies abruptly. Thanks.
by removing the line at the carb and doing your flow check you are checking everything above the carb. you need to have a full flow the size of a pencil for example . no trickling. as for checking the standpipe with a wire that wont happen , as you will not weave a wire from the bottom up throught to the stand pipe. the unit has to come of and be actually blown out with air. pulling the choke means yes you are running out of gas.
 
Pull the complete sediment bowl assy out of the tank. I'd bet that is plugged with crap. My H did that.Also,check the 'filter'(screen) in the carb. It;s the brass fitting between the carb and fuel line.
 
Hello Bill.. welcome to YT! Just to be clear the brass hex fitting that screws in the carb that the fuel line connects to is where the strainer screen is. It is number 13 in this link. CNHI Farmall H carb diagram If the page wants your location or for you to select a dealer say no or x out of that option. Also if the tractor has been setting and you are starting to use it and drive it around the gas tanks have a baffle or separation plate in them. Crud behind those baffles starts coming loose and then works it way over to the sediment bowl outlet hole. It may be wise for you to get a screen to put in the top of your sediment bowl as shown in this link. Tank screen
 
Just to add, get rid of the inline fuel filter. These tractors were made to run without it. They work fine until they cause a problem. I had one on my H that I knew I shouldn't have on there. I kept it because I like to drain out gas and use it in something else so the inline filter was a good extra filter. It finally plugged and my H wouldn't run. I knew someday that would happen. My inline filter was from a Briggs+Stranton and was just a screen.
 
I'd check if the coil is hot when it stops. If hot being to hot to touch then I would suspect the coil is bad. Then check your fuel.
 
I assume that you have looked in the gas tank where the fuel line comes in to make sure there isn't any debris. Your gas cap is venting, right?
 
Had one doing similar several years ago. A good older farmall mechanic told me to try the following. Take air intake off at carb. Start tractor and throttle up to wide open. Use a gloved hand and smother the air flow at carb to kill it. Then start tractor and try it. Fixed my problem. He said i had a piece of trash in a jet and the vacuum created sucked it thru. Worked for me. Your mileage may vary.
 
Pull the complete sediment bowl assy out of the tank. I'd bet that is plugged with crap. My H did that.Also,check the 'filter'(screen) in the carb. It;s the brass fitting between the carb and fuel line.
Delta- Thanks. Will try both. I did not check filter
When is your carb leaking - anytime the tractor is not running or while you are cranking it and it hasn't started. Carbs will leak gas with too much cranking but no start but should stop soon after you stop cranking. If it leaks all the time then you have a problem inside. Your problem of a dying tractor sounds like fuel. I would try to pull the carb plug as soon as it dies and see what comes out. I had similar problems with my H a few years ago and it was a problem of a glob of what looked like jelly plugging the outlet in the tank. I don't have any tractors with in line filters so no experience but I could see it being a problem. Need to decide for sure it its a gas flow problem and if so start working from the carb back to find out the issue. Some tractors have a screen at the carb that can get plugged up. My 300U has one and it got plugged up with what looked like mold and would run like your H is running. I had a F14 with similar issues and turned out the fuel line was almost corroded shut.
DeltaRed- went up to our farm today and disconnected fuel line at carb to drain tank and check flow out of sediment filter. Went deer hunting for 90 minutes and came back and only had a gallon drain out of the tank. Took off sediment filter and drained real quickly from there. Got sediment filter home and had rust sediment stuck between top of sediment filter and bowl. Used a pipe cleaner from both sides and blew it out. Good flow now! Pretty sure that was the problem. Thanks for the advice!
 
I assume that you have looked in the gas tank where the fuel line comes in to make sure there isn't any debris. Your gas cap is venting, right?
went up to our farm today and disconnected fuel line at carb to drain tank and check flow out of sediment filter. Went deer hunting for 90 minutes and came back and only had a gallon drain out the tank. Took off sediment filter and drained real quickly from there. Got sediment filter home and had rust sediment stuck between top of sediment filter and bowl. Used a pipe cleaner from both sides and blew it out. Good flow now! Pretty sure that was the problem. Thanks for the advice!
 
Hello Bill.. welcome to YT! Just to be clear the brass hex fitting that screws in the carb that the fuel line connects to is where the strainer screen is. It is number 13 in this link. CNHI Farmall H carb diagram If the page wants your location or for you to select a dealer say no or x out of that option. Also if the tractor has been setting and you are starting to use it and drive it around the gas tanks have a baffle or separation plate in them. Crud behind those baffles starts coming loose and then works it way over to the sediment bowl outlet hole. It may be wise for you to get a screen to put in the top of your sediment bowl as shown in this link. Tank screen
went up to our farm today and disconnected fuel line at carb to drain tank and check flow out of sediment filter. Went deer hunting for 90 minutes and came back and only had a gallon in the tank. Took off sediment filter and drained real quickly from there. Got sediment filter home and had rust sediment stuck between top of sediment filter and bowl. Used a pipe cleaner from both sides and blew it out. Good flow now! Pretty sure that was the problem. Thanks for the advice!
 
went up to our farm today and disconnected fuel line at carb to drain tank and check flow out of sediment filter. Went deer hunting for 90 minutes and came back and only had a gallon drain out the tank. Took off sediment filter and drained real quickly from there. Got sediment filter home and had rust sediment stuck between top of sediment filter and bowl. Used a pipe cleaner from both sides and blew it out. Good flow now! Pretty sure that was the problem. Thanks for the advice!
I knew that was your problem. Lol. Good to hear outcomes.
 
I knew that was your problem. Lol. Good to hear outcomes.
Was able to get back at it yesterday. Running a little rich but not dying even under load. The sediment filter filled up 20x faster so that was definitely the problem. . Just need to adjust carb I think Thanks again for the advice
 
Was able to get back at it yesterday. Running a little rich but not dying even under load. The sediment filter filled up 20x faster so that was definitely the problem. . Just need to adjust carb I think Thanks again for the advice
It is very likely to happen again as crud works its way out from behind the baffle in the gas tank. At least you will know where to look next time. It could be that the filter in the carb will plug over time, but generally takes a while if the screen is intact in the top of the sediment bowl glass.
 
Just to add, get rid of the inline fuel filter. These tractors were made to run without it. They work fine until they cause a problem. I had one on my H that I knew I shouldn't have on there. I kept it because I like to drain out gas and use it in something else so the inline filter was a good extra filter. It finally plugged and my H wouldn't run. I knew someday that would happen. My inline filter was from a Briggs+Stranton and was just a screen.

Soooo....just change it. If it got plugged up it was obviously doing its job. Would you rather have that crud in your carburetor?
 
Soooo....just change it. If it got plugged up it was obviously doing its job. Would you rather have that crud in your carburetor?
The thing is, that crud would have flowed through the carburetor and you'd never notice. Now it's plugging up the fuel filter leaving you stranded, dead in the water, scratching your head as to why the tractor won't run.
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top