63 Farmall cub Lo boy fuel bowl assembly

[Paul 300 U]

Hello! Still working on getting the Cub valve and piston job done. I've hit a few snags along the way.

I also ordered a new fuel bowl assembly. The old one leaked and the fuel shut off didn't work. I figured I'd take care of that while the hood was off. Any advice here? Do I use anything on the threads when attaching the assembly to the gas tank?
Thanks for the help! Paul

 

[grandpa Love]

Use one of these filters..... wonderful little invention . Goes in the sediment bowl,up in the tank. We use yellow pipe dope in the sediment bowl threads

 

[rustred]

Hello! Still working on getting the Cub valve and piston job done. I've hit a few snags along the way.

I also ordered a new fuel bowl assembly. The old one leaked and the fuel shut off didn't work. I figured I'd take care of that while the hood was off. Any advice here? Do I use anything on the threads when attaching the assembly to the gas tank?
Thanks for the help! Paul

Definitely need a sealer on them threads. As when the outlet is lined up don’t mean the threads are tight and it won’t make another turn. Use Teflon tape or the paste. That inside the tank screen is to catch the larger debris .

 

[560Dennis]

I use permatex thread sealant high temperature , they say
Head bolts into through holes, oil PSI sending units and sensors, oil and coolant lines, fuel fittings, rear axle fill plug, brake and power steering fittings

 

[BarnyardEngineering]

Regular pipe dope is not fuel tolerant. Gasoila, which you can get at Tractor Supply, is.

 

[Paul 300 U]

Hello! Still working on getting the Cub valve and piston job done. I've hit a few snags along the way.

I also ordered a new fuel bowl assembly. The old one leaked and the fuel shut off didn't work. I figured I'd take care of that while the hood was off. Any advice here? Do I use anything on the threads when attaching the assembly to the gas tank?
Thanks for the help! Paul

Thank you for the responses everyone. I bought fuel resistant thread tape. The assembly revival started of easy but apparently it's going to take a little more force to remove. I'm hoping to get everything back together this week. Paul

 

[Paul 300 U]

Hello! Still working on getting the Cub valve and piston job done. I've hit a few snags along the way.

I also ordered a new fuel bowl assembly. The old one leaked and the fuel shut off didn't work. I figured I'd take care of that while the hood was off. Any advice here? Do I use anything on the threads when attaching the assembly to the gas tank?
Thanks for the help! Paul

Trying to get the cub back together 100%. The new steel gas line arrived so today I began to install the new bowl assembly while I still have the hood off. My problem is that I can't screw the bowl assembly in quite as far as I'd like. It becomes very tight about one half a revolution from where it needs to be to meet up with gas line. Do I just stop on the last revolution that meets up with the fuel line or is there something else I should be doing. I'm using the yellow, gas friendly tape going twice around the threads. I also tried reversing the on/of handle on the bowl with full line outlet . That would have been perfect but it does not work. Thanks for the help! Paul

 

[stdsch40]

You are making it hard for yourself, could have used soft copper tube instead of steel. Easier to bend into shape than steel tube and the brass ferrels seal better. Use teflon tape to seal the threads, but not on the compression fittings, only the pipe threads. Doesn't much matter the color of the teflon pretty much the same.

 

[Paul 300 U]

Stdsch40. Thanks for the reply. I've got the hood off the Cub while working on engine. I decided to replace the bowl assembly since it leaked and the shut-off didn't work. I also had leaking in the connections at the bowl.
In the process of getting correct bowl and getting feedback on proper install I learned that copper, which I have now, isn't the best solution for fuel line as it can get brittle and crack over time especially with vibration. Since it was already apart I figured I'd go ahead and get a steel line and stay on the safe side. Thanks for the suggestion. Paul

 

[Janicholson]

Using a Pipe thread tap, you can thread the tank deeper then it is (using grease in the tap flutes to collect chips) experiment as to how deep to take the taper. In other words go very slowly, maybe a 1/4 revolution after the tap starts cutting, on each try. Jim

 

[Paul 300 U]

Jim thanks for the reply. After several attempts and counting the number of revolutions I needed to get the bowl lined up with the fuel line, I think I've got the assembly tight enough. I got another 1/2 revolution by limiting my yellow tape to just one layer around the threads. I put the hood on the tractor and no leaks at the tank or at the carburator.
I'm frustrated that it appears that the bowl is leaking at the top where the rubber gasket meets the top of the bowl. I'm gonna tinker with that today.
Hopefully this seemingly simple problem doesn't become problematic. I'm looking forward to using my limited time to getting back to work on the 350! Thanks! Paul

 

[Jim Becker]

The screen should be installed below the gasket. Installed with the screen on top, it may leak. May not be your problem, but a fairly common mistake.

 

[grandpa Love]

The screen should be installed below the gasket. Installed with the screen on top, it may leak. May not be your problem, but a fairly common mistake.

Jim.....define "on top"...... I believe the screen goes on first, against the metal part of the assembly,then the gasket,then the glass..... Also , after using many,many (100+) sediment bowl assemblies I have found the cork gasket if far better than rubber.

 

[Fritz Maurer]

The screen should be installed below the gasket. Installed with the screen on top, it may leak. May not be your problem, but a fairly common mistake.

Between the glass and the gasket?

 

[Jim Becker]

I meant with the screen between the glass and the gasket. The manuals show it the other way, as grandpa Love stated. It seems that different people have different experience on this particular question. I knew of at least one person that resorted to using 2 gaskets, one each side of the screen. The larger tractors have a bigger bowl than the ones on the Cub, A, etc. I wonder if the different results may at least partly be due to screens and gaskets getting mixed in with slight differences in diameter.

At this point, I'm ready to go with:
Whichever way you assembled it, if it leaks try swapping them and see if that fixes it.

 

[Farmalldude45]

I meant with the screen between the glass and the gasket. The manuals show it the other way, as grandpa Love stated. It seems that different people have different experience on this particular question. I knew of at least one person that resorted to using 2 gaskets, one each side of the screen. The larger tractors have a bigger bowl than the ones on the Cub, A, etc. I wonder if the different results may at least partly be due to screens and gaskets getting mixed in with slight differences in diameter.

At this point, I'm ready to go with:
Whichever way you assembled it, if it leaks try swapping them and see if that fixes it.

I'm with Grandpa Love. I've always put the screen in first and then the gasket. If i recall correctly, some of the original strainer assemblies had a shallow recess which I assumed was for the screen. One common problem today is that many manufacturers make the screen the same od as the gasket. This is incorrect. The screen is smaller. The gasket will not seal on the screen as fuel can seep through it.

 

[Paul 300 U]

I had to redo several items with the new bowl. Including really tightening the thumb screw and retightening the on/off lever. That stopped the leak from the bowl. I could then see the fuel line into the bowl was leaking. I progressively tightened trying to be careful not strip threads. No luck. I finally removed the line. The brass fitting has the feral (sp?) built into it so when you tighten it, it detaches from the nut and self crimps to the fuel line. There is no flare on the steel line. Turns out, the feral was detached from the nut but loose on the steel line. I could not get it to seat inside the bowl. Embarrassingly, I crazy glued the nut and feral back together and that allowed me to reinsert into the female side of the bowl. Oh, I also managed to bugger the threads on both the nut and bowl. I dressed the threads a bit with a file and an undersized #20 tap.I also did two rounds of yellow gas friendly tape on the threads and it seems to be holding fine after 48 hours.

 

[caterpillar guy]

I would have used a couple extra layers of tape rather than to open the threaded hole up with a tap as the hole is a one way deal o making it smaller if needed. The tape will fill up the void you have in rotation for alignment. I would also probably use the copper nickel brake line for a fuel line . IF it holds for brakes it will hold for fuel and not break off over time or at least not in your lifetime. Though for ease of instalation I would just use a rubber hose foe a line and save the problem of sediment bowl rotation and bending a line .

 

[stdsch40]

Next time you need to repair that glass bowl fuel filter and fuel line assembly, which I suspect wont be too far in the future, abandon the steel fuel line and go with soft copper as I stated earlier. I am currently repairing the very same system on my Farmall C tractor because the shut off valve slowly leaks through the valve stem. I've looked at this very closely and determined that it will always leak to some extent. Generally a very poor design for shutting the fuel off! I'll let you know what I've come up with to finally solve this irratating little problem. Sometime in the future. So stay tuned.

 

[Janicholson]

Next time you need to repair that glass bowl fuel filter and fuel line assembly, which I suspect wont be too far in the future, abandon the steel fuel line and go with soft copper as I stated earlier. I am currently repairing the very same system on my Farmall C tractor because the shut off valve slowly leaks through the valve stem. I've looked at this very closely and determined that it will always leak to some extent. Generally a very poor design for shutting the fuel off! I'll let you know what I've come up with to finally solve this irratating little problem. Sometime in the future. So stay tuned.

Cut off the fuel line at 2" from the bowl. splice in a 1/4 turn fuel compatible valve. leave the bowl valve open. Use wire tir=es to keep the copper from vibrating by attaching them at various points. Jim