630 clutch side main bearing

blue924.9

Member
I have a 630 John Deere. I had gas in the oil last year and after running it for a year found some debris in the oil. I had read after that the horror stories of the o rings swelling shut so it was tore down. Luckily the o rings were not totally shut but were down to a pencil lead.

I’m going back together with it, on the clutch side main bearing housing there are two small bolts with locking nuts. I can not find anything online or the IT manual about those bolts. I removed the bolts without disturbing the nuts so my backup plan is to reinstall as they came out but I would like to find the correct way to install and or adjust these bolts and nuts
 
And the debris in the oil ended up being the inner crank thrust washer, not sure how long it had been run without but the crankshaft end play was adjusted to spec and I haven’t found any wear on the splines or flywheel as evidence it was run loose
 
I have a 630 John Deere. I had gas in the oil last year and after running it for a year found some debris in the oil. I had read after that the horror stories of the o rings swelling shut so it was tore down. Luckily the o rings were not totally shut but were down to a pencil lead.

I’m going back together with it, on the clutch side main bearing housing there are two small bolts with locking nuts. I can not find anything online or the IT manual about those bolts. I removed the bolts without disturbing the nuts so my backup plan is to reinstall as they came out but I would like to find the correct way to install and or adjust these bolts and nuts
Can you post a photo of the area where the "small bolts" are?
 
I didn’t think I had one but scrolling through the camera roll I found one, they are the bolts at 12 and 6 o clock
IMG_3580.jpeg
 
I belive that those bolts are a stop bolt for the clutch fork. They keep the fork from over traveling when you disengage the clutch.
 
I belive that those bolts are a stop bolt for the clutch fork. They keep the fork from over traveling when you disengage the clutch.
Yes, stop bolts for the clutch fork. I "think" that those bolts were added at some point to prevent the clutch from re-engaging when you pull the clutch lever all the way back. My early JD 50 does not have them and the clutch adjustment is a little trickier. There is a fine point of adjustment between go and stop on the JD 50.
 
Yes, stop bolts for the clutch fork. I "think" that those bolts were added at some point to prevent the clutch from re-engaging when you pull the clutch lever all the way back. My early JD 50 does not have them and the clutch adjustment is a little trickier. There is a fine point of adjustment between go and stop on the JD 50.
Also - if I remember right, there are threaded plugs in the top and bottom of the 630 first reduction cover through which you can adjust those stop bolts. It's been a few years since I had mine apart. The JD service manual describes the adjustment. I can look it up if needed.
 
Yes, stop bolts for the clutch fork. I "think" that those bolts were added at some point to prevent the clutch from re-engaging when you pull the clutch lever all the way back. My early JD 50 does not have them and the clutch adjustment is a little trickier. There is a fine point of adjustment between go and stop on the JD 50.
baGqYoB.jpeg


Looks like they (Key #42) were added @ serial # 6217318.
 
I have a 630 John Deere. I had gas in the oil last year and after running it for a year found some debris in the oil. I had read after that the horror stories of the o rings swelling shut so it was tore down. Luckily the o rings were not totally shut but were down to a pencil lead.

I’m going back together with it, on the clutch side main bearing housing there are two small bolts with locking nuts. I can not find anything online or the IT manual about those bolts. I removed the bolts without disturbing the nuts so my backup plan is to reinstall as they came out but I would like to find the correct way to install and or adjust these bolts and nuts
Go to the electrical department where they stock bits and pieces to repair table lamps etc . Obtain some 1/8” threaded pipe . Thread the pipe in to hold the o’ring open and in place .
 
Go to the electrical department where they stock bits and pieces to repair table lamps etc . Obtain some 1/8” threaded pipe . Thread the pipe in to hold the o’ring open and in place .
Already done, I read of that in the same posts as the o ring swelling problem.

However after research it does not need to be lamp post specific pipe thread. The fancy name for lamp post thread is identical to regular old 1/8 pipe thread so two short 1/8 pipe plugs threaded right in
 

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