630 oil loss

[blue924.9]

Good afternoon gents.

I have a 630 that my wife inherited. when we got it, it was non running but a little tinkering got it going pretty well. I found after getting it going that the crankcase was filled with gas from a failed auto fuel shut off. I have replaced that setup with a normal sediment bowl and changed engine and trans oil. we have run it at two tractor pulls for a couple hours each time and both times have lost two quarts of oil, it doesn't seem to be leaking any oil and only smokes briefly on startup so I don't believe it is burning that much oil either. I have done some reading and found that there is a high probability that the gas took out the main seal on the first reduction housing. I have also read there are two square cut o rings that can be damaged by gas.

my predicament is there is a tractor pull coming up in a couple weeks and i was wondering if there was a quick easy way to determine if these o rings were damage. the tractor runs well with no unusual noises and has good oil pressure, right in the middle of the gauge. how big of a deal is it to pull the bearing housings out to check the o rings if that is the absolute recommendation? I would like to get this rig in the last pull of the year but at the same time if I run it with improper oil flow and mess the crank or rods up i would kick myself in the back of the head for a long time after.

so I guess my two questions are is there a easy way to determine the condition of the o rings, and if it needs to be tore down to replace the o rings and main seal how big of the job is that?

 

[matthies]

If it ran this long just do the pull and then tear it down. No easy way to check other than pulling the housings. You need a heavy puller and a little heat to remove the gear from the crankshaft behind the belt pulley. First reduction cover will need to come off and a hoist to handle the flywheel. Trying to finish up a 630 myself.

 

[Paul_IN]

Good afternoon gents.

I have a 630 that my wife inherited. when we got it, it was non running but a little tinkering got it going pretty well. I found after getting it going that the crankcase was filled with gas from a failed auto fuel shut off. I have replaced that setup with a normal sediment bowl and changed engine and trans oil. we have run it at two tractor pulls for a couple hours each time and both times have lost two quarts of oil, it doesn't seem to be leaking any oil and only smokes briefly on startup so I don't believe it is burning that much oil either. I have done some reading and found that there is a high probability that the gas took out the main seal on the first reduction housing. I have also read there are two square cut o rings that can be damaged by gas.

my predicament is there is a tractor pull coming up in a couple weeks and i was wondering if there was a quick easy way to determine if these o rings were damage. the tractor runs well with no unusual noises and has good oil pressure, right in the middle of the gauge. how big of a deal is it to pull the bearing housings out to check the o rings if that is the absolute recommendation? I would like to get this rig in the last pull of the year but at the same time if I run it with improper oil flow and mess the crank or rods up i would kick myself in the back of the head for a long time after.

so I guess my two questions are is there a easy way to determine the condition of the o rings, and if it needs to be tore down to replace the o rings and main seal how big of the job is that?

It will be messy but for more assurance that it’s oiling RH main and number two rod you can remove the crankcase cover and run it. If number two rod is slinging oil like number one I’d say you are safe for one more session at the tractor pull.

 

[Mark-Ia]

You can get alcohol resistant diaghrams for that original sediment bowl assembly from George at www,greenpartsofva.com

 

[ET]

Is your transmission gaining oil?

 

[blue924.9]

Is your transmission gaining oil?

Not sure I am planning on getting it into the shop this Friday morning and that will be one of the first things I check. If it isn’t getting in there I’m at a loss where it would be going other than cooling system which would suck.

On the other hand I just filled this tractor up with Schaffer’s gear oil so hopefully engine oil hasn’t contaminated that either

 

[blue924.9]

It will be messy but for more assurance that it’s oiling RH main and number two rod you can remove the crankcase cover and run it. If number two rod is slinging oil like number one I’d say you are safe for one more session at the tractor pull.

How are the oil pumps driven on these? Is there any way to fab up a way to drive the pump without engine running to check oil flow? Or perhaps a way to supply the oil system with a air pressurized pre luber

 

[blue924.9]

You can get alcohol resistant diaghrams for that original sediment bowl assembly from George at www,greenpartsofva.com

Thanks for the recommendation but I trust myself and my wife noticing the oil pressure gauge more than I trust that fuel shutoff not failing.

George is a great guy to work with though I recently bought some square headed rim bolts from him

 

[PJH]

How are the oil pumps driven on these? Is there any way to fab up a way to drive the pump without engine running to check oil flow? Or perhaps a way to supply the oil system with a air pressurized pre luber

You can remove the oil line that feeds the oil pressure gauge/fuel shutoff behind the governor housing. I use a NEW and clean pump-up garden sprayer to pressurize the oil system. It's common for the right main bearing seal to leak engine oil into the first reduction cover and then into the transmission/final drive.

 

[blue924.9]

Just wanted to give everyone an update. Was planning on getting the alternator on and pulling it. Pulled the fill plug out of the first reduction cover and everything looked like it was covered in antisieze. Drained reduction gearbox and got silver tinted oil. Pulled check plug on trans and had silver oil there as well as 1.5 gallons over fill which is roughly how much oil I’ve added since acquiring the tractor.

Dropped oil on engine and had antifreeze in the bottom of the filter housing and engine oil was silver but not as silver as trans oil but I did add two quarts again to get it in the shop. Didn’t have much out of oil drain plug but tractor was just running to get it into the shop.

Going to move it to a more long term spot tomorrow and tear into it to see what is going on. Definitely getting engine oil into trans. Not sure if metal is coming from engine, trans or both did have bits of brass stuck in the sludge on the drain plug