7010 poor start

[sparkiefarmer]

Have a nice 7010 I bought from the original owner with 3600 hours on it. Tractor had just hauled grain wagons to the elevator for the last 1400 hours. It went to work when I got it, hard jobs, plowing with 5x18, round baling 60+ bales an hour, running big swing auger with wet grain. Now tractor has 4200 hours, and has gotten TERRIBLE at starting in the cold. Its always been bad, guy I bought it from said well, if you park it under a tree in July, then walk by it with an ice cream, it wont start.
Lately it seems like its gotten worse. Needs to be inside and plugged in overnight for it to start at a little below freezing. Had it in the shop which is 56 degrees and had a battle getting it to go.
What has changed?

 

[rrlund]

Just curious since I'm more of an Oliver and White guy. Do those have a fuel pump to draw fuel up from the tank, or do they use vaccuum like the big Whites do? I've had problems with tractors with a small lift pump on the engine hard starting when the lift pump was bad, but never with the White vacuum deal. Makes me wonder if the hard start could happen if there was an issue with it.

 

[DrAllis]

Where do you want to start?? I'm going to ASSUME you have white smoke coming out of the exhaust pipe?? If so, my very first money that would be spent is on two new 1,000 CCA batteries with good connections on the battery cables. Next money spent on a new/reman STARTER, which is probably the problem. Those Lucas brand starters are notorious for cranking at half-speed when there is something wrong with them. A modern replacement is a gear-reduction starter which is much more reliable. UNTIL YOU DO THESE THINGS FIRST, YOU ARE WASTING YOUR TIME AND $$$$$ ON ANYTHING ELSE.

 

[SkipperII]

I added an electric fuel pump to my buddies Allis, and it cured his starting problem. I understand they had a problem with their low pressure supply pumps.

 

[sparkiefarmer]

Already has the electric lift pump. I didnt know they left the factory without it.

 

[sparkiefarmer]

New starter last fall, aftermarket but not gear reduction to my knowledge. I'll try a set of batteries; they tested ok then (warmer weather) but not new by any means. I have cleaned up all the connections but havent replaced any cables.
White smoke almost immediately but will take a fair bit to get it to kick, then it has to be throttle wide open and after a few times of it sputtering and falling on its face it will catch and run. As it fires smoke changes to black.

 

[Dieseltech]

I'll have to look at the spec sheet, but you MIGHT have injection pump trouble. The AC DM injection pump could have the advance spring snap ring fail, allowing full advance too soon. Have seen this before lots of white smoke, hard/no start at all. Some AC pumps have speed advance, some have retard start, and go to full advance only after engine has started. I'll look at the 7010 spec sheet later and see what it should be.

 

[Bob Bancroft]

It has a Roosa Master injection pump?

 

[DrAllis]

RoosaMaster/Stanadyne DM-4 series injection pump. Cold engine starts are always the best when a diesel engine is new. From that day on, the more hrs the engine gets, the cold startability slowly goes downhill. Those engines, by today's standards, cold start terrible. They are only 15 to 1 compression ratio, not 17 to 1 like some others. Modern deezel engines usually start at down to +10 degrees F with no aid at all. Some have glow plugs right on top of the piston area that only take 10 seconds to heat. If yours starts with an hour of block heater time, that may be normal for that engine. Is this your first winter with this tractor?? My Dad just kept his chore tractor plugged in all the time during cold weeks. The OEM block heater is only 750 watts and made for hrs and hrs of heat time. I'm telling you that chasing something like this can get really expensive, like looking for the needle in a haystack. If it starts using the block heater, runs well when running, restarts fine after you've used it awhile and doesn't use excessive oil, not sure I'd go looking for trouble that may not be there.

 

[DrAllis]

Also, full throttle position on your inj pump isn't the way to start one. Just a tick above dead idle is the best normally for a better cold start situation.

 

[Tramway Guy]

Isnt there a manifold Hester on that engine? And if so, is it working?

 

[DrAllis]

I don't remember for sure. It could have had the intake manifold heater OR it may have had an ether start kit on it.

 

[sparkiefarmer]

I was wondering if something like this was wrong, but unsure of how exactly it works.

 

[sparkiefarmer]

No glo-plug, had a newish can of ether in it when I bought it, but I hate that stuff with a passion so I took it out. Its only used in emergencies around here. This is the 3rd winter with it, its been on the snow blower each one. I suspected it was getting harder to start in the fall when I put a new starter on, but it didnt make much difference. Factory block heater, new a couple years ago. 15w40 oil year round. Will grab a set of batteries for it today and see what that does, ones in it are 8 years old. It does have 2 fuel filters on it and they have been changed this winter.

 

[DrAllis]

If once you have gotten the engine running, and operate it until it reaches operating temp, if it restarts the rest of the day just fine, I'd say the engine is just showing its age. NOT meaning an overhaul, but just knowing that it requires a little help on cold starts. Again, this assumes it runs fine and isn't using oil. Also, if you take the time to relocate the ether atomizer from the intake manifold to just ahead of the turbo air inlet hose in the steel tube, you will find it is much less aggressive and will still make the engine start. Avoid using 80% mix of ether (John Deere ether for example).

 

[sparkiefarmer]

She restarts fine when the engine is warm and does everything our other 110hp tractors do. Once the oil has 100 hours on it will use a little, maybe a quart every 4 or 5 days. Been changing it before the 200 hour mark, and am switching to 10w40 semi synthetic this year, it'll be interesting to see how the old engines like it, Ive heard mixed things. Its the same price as everyone else and being semi synthetic seems like better value to me. I kinda thought I was overthinking it, but I'd feel awfully stupid if I wrecked an engine or injector pump because I ignored some early symptoms. Thanks very much for the advice.

 

[VicS]

Should start better just above idle. I have a 6060 got new. It is 4 cylinders of your motor. It is a poor starter. Since new. Allis would have put new pistons in it to raise the compression one point. I never let them. I just keep a ether can in it. Hit the button 4 to 6 times and will start anytime. Once when is 50 or so. It's going on 30 yrs old and and has been set at a little over 100 hp its entire life. It's got a intercooler from a 6080 from day one.