706 Power Steering Hand Pump Removal

[FinallyFarming]

G'day friends.

Today I am working on the 706 to replace the steering hand pump at the dash console.
I have the large IH Official Shop Manual for this tractor and tried following the guide, but it seems steps are missing so I'd like to ask someone who has done this if the manual is missing important removal information of if I simply am not understanding the procedure.

The IH 706 Shop Manual details the removal process as follows.....(summary)....

1). Clean the area around the pump
2). Remove the steering wheel
3). Remove the rear panel from the dashboard
4). Disconnect the hydraulic lines
5). Quote "Remove the capscrews and lockwashers holding the manual pump to the instrument panel and remove the pump from the tractor" (Page 677, IH Official Shop Manual)

Pardon me, but this is not all the steps required to remove this pump as far as I can tell.
Removing the pump ALSO requires removal of the throttle lever AND the Press Pin going through the throttle lever shaft which protrudes through the cover plate.
It is mandatory (I think) to remove this pin in order to remove the plate that the pump mounts to because there is no way (that I can see) to remove the pump from the rear)

So either I haven't seen the light and am confused, or the manual is over simplifying the process and leaving out important information. I will say up front that I believe the shop manual to be the authoritative definitive and correct source of repair procedures for this tractor so I must be incorrect, but I can't see it.

Any comments that would help me understand the removal process would be appreciated.
For illustrative use only to clarify my point about the information in the manual, I have included a partial screen shot of the steps in the manual for your review.
The manual is most certainly copyrighted and I acknowledge the owner of the copyright and do not in any fashion attempt any commercial use of this image.

And here is a photo of the back of the dash. There does not appear to be sufficient room to remove the pump from the rear.

And finally, here is the metal plate that has to be removed to get the pump out and the pin that must be removed to get the plate off.
Please tell me I am making this harder than it really is

Thank you kindly

 

[FinallyFarming]

Follow up.....
I Got the press pin out and removed the throttle plate / pump mounting plate.
All that's left to do tomorrow is to remove the hydraulic lines, install the new pump and button it back up.

I came here to order the replacement pump first but none were available.

I wonder if I'll need new seals/copper washers/orings or any other new seals to install the hydraulic hoses onto the replacement pump?

 

[caterpillar guy]

It has been a few years since I had the hand pump off our 1466 which is basically the same thing. I took the pin out at the shaft below the throttle lever so it came off with the cat plate the hand pump bolts to. This way no messing with the friction adjustment under there. IT also lets you lift the hand pump out the top and towards the seat. There are repair parts for the hand pump[. If it is leaking at the bottom of the steering wheel it does not need to be removed to fix. If leaking at the bottom end of the hand pump it does then when working on the hand pump keep them like they came apart as some models are timed and will do strange things if not kept in time when put back together. As for the lines under there on the hand pump they are pretty tight fit in there and mark them so you don't get them mixed up so it will also not do the similar strange things as out of time will. What is the probelm with yours that you think you need a new or reman one? We have the same on on our 1466 that was on it 20 years ago when dad bought it and until I changed my 806 over to the 56 series shifters it had the same on on it that was on it when I bought it back in 1978 till about 2005 or so. I still have the hand pump out in the shed if I need it . The 06,56,66 series used the same hand pump far as I know. They go in the same way and come out the same. there may be a bit of difference in the models with a hydraulc cylinder on the front axle for volume of oil moved per revolution but would be all. And I even doubt that.

 

[FinallyFarming]

It has been a few years since I had the hand pump off our 1466 which is basically the same thing. I took the pin out at the shaft below the throttle lever so it came off with the cat plate the hand pump bolts to. This way no messing with the friction adjustment under there. IT also lets you lift the hand pump out the top and towards the seat. There are repair parts for the hand pump[. If it is leaking at the bottom of the steering wheel it does not need to be removed to fix. If leaking at the bottom end of the hand pump it does then when working on the hand pump keep them like they came apart as some models are timed and will do strange things if not kept in time when put back together. As for the lines under there on the hand pump they are pretty tight fit in there and mark them so you don't get them mixed up so it will also not do the similar strange things as out of time will. What is the probelm with yours that you think you need a new or reman one? We have the same on on our 1466 that was on it 20 years ago when dad bought it and until I changed my 806 over to the 56 series shifters it had the same on on it that was on it when I bought it back in 1978 till about 2005 or so. I still have the hand pump out in the shed if I need it . The 06,56,66 series used the same hand pump far as I know. They go in the same way and come out the same. there may be a bit of difference in the models with a hydraulc cylinder on the front axle for volume of oil moved per revolution but would be all. And I even doubt that.

Thank you for that Caterpillar Guy.
Very helpful reply.

The pump was leaking when I bought the tractor and I tried to replace the upper seal kit 3 times with no success at which time I assumed there was some kind of defect on the shaft keeping the new seal from doing it's job. Once it's out I'll eventually take it apart to see if I can find the suspected defect.

On my tractor (I assume they all are like this) there is a convenient access plate below the steering wheel that exposes the hose connectors perfectly so I assume it's there for the purpose of disconnecting and reconnecting the hoses at the steering pump.

I'm about to purchase a 2nd tractor and at that point I plan to do a major restoration on this one.

 

[caterpillar guy]

Yes that is what it is for though you will find it quite tight in there to swing a wrench to get them loose or tight. There are 4 lines there to get loose. The reason I mentioned keeping them straight on which goes where.

 

[bc]

I've done it to fix a leak on my 2606. Just takes a seal kit and not a new unit. That felt washer in the very top is just a dust cover and not a seal. Think I had to remove the dash on mine. Don't remember if I got a wrench on the lines or had to use a wrench end with the square hole that a ratchet extension fits into. Be careful with it on the bench as Cat Guy said. Not sure the hoses or lines use any orings or seals as they should be JIC. Don't think they would be ORing Boss.

 

[FinallyFarming]

So as a conclusion to this thread (in case someone comes along later having this same issue)......

Having tried numerous seal kits, reading the install advice for them over many months from different sources, apparently the hand power steering pump on my 706 has some kind of defect that makes it impossible to stop a leak at the steering wheel with installation of a new seal kit.
After many trials and failures to replace the seal I finally just bought a used pump for the tractor and installed it yesterday.

As some mentioned above, replacing the the pump is made difficult by the tight area you have to work in to remove the hose fittings from the pump. I removed the cowling covering the dash console as well as the access plate below the steering wheel. I can't say that removing the console cover really helped. You can't really get to the hose connections up near the hand pump back there anyway. The small access plate was the only way I could go. You may have to remove and replace the steel pump mount plate to get the job done to get that 1/8 inch clearance you need to get the wrench on. I used a 23mm wrench (same as 7/8 SAE) to get the fittings off and yes, it is not easy because no room was designed in to get wrenches around the fittings. . I tried a number of sizes of crowfoot wrenches but none would fit around the nut because of no clearance around the back where the nut is close to the pump body.

My thoughts after the fact are that making a custom ground wrench that has a thinned head to provide more room to work the wrench around the fitting might make the job a little easier. Or maybe someone else has found an easy way to do it.

Once the power steering hand pump was replaced and reassembled the leak appears to have been resolved.
I drove the tractor for a mile and all is good so far.

Thanks for the assistance from those who offered advice.

 

[used red MN]

Most guys that have done much hydraulic work on tractors and know that “angle head” wrench sets exist have a set of them. Angle head wrenches example set
It is hard to beat Snap-on angle head wrenches due to there slim design, not everyone can justify there cost.

 

[FinallyFarming]

Cant see how it would hurt to have a set on hand. I work on so many things, but until now, rarely hydraulics.

Do these seem good for the job? (It's an Amazon SHARE PRODUCT link.)
A quick look seemed to suggest the Snap on sets were into the thousands of dollars vs $144 for the Capri set.

https://a.co/d/0LCHLQz

SnapOn vs Capri Angle Wrench comparison

 

[used red MN]

Those would probably be fine for novice occasional use. The bulkiness of the head where it transitions from the jaw to the handle of the wrench may limit there ability to access some locations that the Snap-on could. But obviously cost far less Just FYI you are showing a metric set.