8ft Grader Blade*** Brand ?

[T_Bone]

I need a new 8ft grader blade. I can't find any used ones so will have to buy a new one. I've never bought one so I need some help. I want something that's solid built but I won't use it commercially and about 20hrs/yr at my place.

I don't need the best but I don't need junk either.

I see el-cheap-o's at $400 and "heavy duty" at $1400. Of course no spec's to compare so this doesn't mean much too me.

So what do I want too look for brand wise ?

and about what should I have to pay?

My soil is decomposed granite or pea gravel and sand with a 15% clay content and very little moisture. A 2" rock is a "big one".

My goal:
I need to remove 2" of soil from a higher area to a lower area over 2a total.

My plan is too roll part of that 2" 8ft at a time towards the low area. If I can't make the second roll then use my front loader to pick-up the row and re-spread it then continue with my 8ft blade.

I'm planning on using ripper shanks/points set at 12" spacing in front of the 8ft blade.

Suggestions?

T_Bone

 

[RickB]

You don't say how much tractor will be in front of it and that is really an important piece of the puzzle. That job is going to require plenty of both HP and time. Landpride builds several duty ratings of blades (and most everything else). The 35 series seems plenty stout. They also used to offer a scarifier attachment with a three point at the rear so one can hitch the scarifier to the tractor and hitch a blade or stone rake to the scarifier.
I don't know much about King Kutter or other discount brands, maybe they have a decent heavy duty offering.

 

[Anonymous-0]

I've got the HBL-84. I've had mine for 6 years. When I bought it, the dealer had it in stock for more than a year. So...there's very little chance the pricing is anywhere near what I paid at that time. All I can do is tell you it's a very tough blade. Woods sells a heavier model and a lighter duty model. This one is a good compromise. I routinely use it behind a 60hp/7200 lb 2wd tractor. I've moved snow, graded ditch's, and cleaned up a feed lot. The hardest use was grading the ditch. No issues to report. It ain't the CHEAPEST blade on the market. Woods is proud of their stuff. But it IS a good blade and will hold up to most any normal use.
Woods HBL 96 2

 

[johns48jdb]

moving dirt is easier with a box blade. it will cut the high spots out and fill the box with dirt so you cna drag it to lower places. i've found that if you never rasie the box at all and just keep going around and around a diffeerent angles it will cut all the high spots down and level the spot up real nicely. you can buy two types. on with a lever for dropping the pints down and another where you have to set them down by hand for each point. its not hard to do and i really never used my teeth that much any way. if i have to loosen up the dirt that much i just use my turning plow and only run it as deep as you want to cut down too. one other thing i do is try to not work loose ground. i kock down the roughest spots and get it close and then wait until its ben rained on a couple of times before doing the final grading.

 

[Ole Shovel]

Gannon made some real nice 3 point box blades would push in reverse, rip, or pull forward with box blade, rotates where you want it by pulling a lever. No tilt of course. Several small line brands out there building drag type box blades with cylinder lift. Some have tilt and some don't. Also couple building angle and tilt drag type blades that can be set straight with ends that flip up or down doubling for a box blade but with all the hydraulics they cost a lot more. Don't have any magazines handy for brand names might google and see what comes up or ask at local small line implement dealers.

 

[SparepartsTN]

I"ve been doing the same thing with a 6 foot, but every time the front wheels went up or down the box blade did the opposite which made holes or hills. After I bought a hydraulic top link I just set the box blade on the ground, switched the lever to "draft" and controled the cutting with the top link. I set the rakers down one hole so they are just below the blade and tilt it forward for cutting and roll it back to carry the dirt and spread it over the low spots, works much better. You can flatten the ground much easier with control and it takes a lot less time.

 

[Anonymous-0]

not sure what youre looking for...you say "grader blade" then mention scarifiers.
if you want a box blade then Rhino is your best bet...they dont make consumer grade nuthin...all top of the line heavy duty equiptment...its spendy but you'll have it for life.

 

[T_Bone]

I want one of this type but will add shanks/points up next too the draw bar. This would be so I can roll a consistent roll of soil to one side. I have a yard drag to smooth and level the ground once I get the earth moved.

T_Bone

 

[Shetland Sheepdog]

(quoted from post at 07:12:33 01/28/09) You don't say how much tractor will be in front of it and that is really an important piece of the puzzle. That job is going to require plenty of both HP and time. Landpride builds several duty ratings of blades (and most everything else). The 35 series seems plenty stout. They also used to offer a scarifier attachment with a three point at the rear so one can hitch the scarifier to the tractor and hitch a blade or stone rake to the scarifier.
I don't know much about King Kutter or other discount brands, maybe they have a decent heavy duty offering.

I'll second the Land Pride. :wink: 15 series is "light duty" for compact tractors, 25 series is "middle of the road" & 35 series is "heavy duty" for bigger tractors. I would suggest that you measure outside to outside on the tractor's rear tires and get your blade at least 1 ft wider. That will allow you to angle the blade and still cut as wide or wider than your rear tires. :wink: I would limit the size of the tractor to 25HP for the 15 series, 50HP for the 25 series & 75HP for the 35 series :? Understand that this is just my opinion and Land Pride may make a different recommendation! :roll:
Dave 8)

 

[RodinNS]

I don't have any brand recomendation, but I'd suggest that you get the heaviest blade that your tractor will lift in a practical manner.
I've got a fair bit of experience with lighter and medium duty blades. I can tell you that the 'power' rating they put on them doesn't mean much. It's got a lot more to do with the tractor's weight because it's the weight (inertia) that's going to smash the blade when you hit something. I've done that more times that I care to mention. I prefer to use loaders instead of blades now... and if it really requires a blade then I use a dozer.
Remember. Weight! Structural weight.

Rod

 

[msb]

Grader box and a hydraulic center link is what you need.

 

[Anonymous-0]

ok...i thot thats what you were talking about but have never seen scarafiers on 3 point blades...reading your post again as long as ground is clean [no grass/roots] i think the blade will do the job alone in multiple shallow passes.
heres one from Rhino

Rhino rear blade

 

[T_Bone]

That would be a 70hp Rick, a IH-706D


T_Bone

 

[Ole Shovel]

Looks like Woods took over making Gannon now.

http://www.woodsequipment.com/productPhotos.aspx

Garfield in Enid Oklahoma makes some drag type box blades with rippers on front. Seen them in ad pics in Fastline but not on their site?

http://www.garfieldequipment.com/