970 case mechanic/expert needed

[RFgarage]

Have a case 970 powershift (1975 white paint) with an odd trans issue. If anyone has knowledge on them I will explain further. Thanks for help in advance!!

 

[used red MN]

Hello RF, welcome to YT! There are some here with knowledge on them. Go ahead and explain the problem. Tell us how long you have had the tractor and what you use it for. Tell us if the hydraulic oil and filters have been changed and how long ago? Tell us if you have diagnosed this by checking the clutch element pressures? Try to use the ..I operate it this way and then.. it does this, keeping that a one by one subject/response.

 

[RFgarage]

So I bought the tractor roughly a year ago, it’s in pretty decent shape. Hasn’t been abused but def used around 7,000 hrs. I have no repair/maintenance history at all. I bought it for light general use(square baling,10’ brush hog, pulling forage boxes, small web spreader) and I like it a lot. Engine is strong with plenty of power and hyd and pto seem to work fine. I changed all fluids and filters when got it home( I do this with any used item I buy as you never know). When you start the tractor after it has sit for a day or 2 it has a horrible time getting moving. Sometimes no reverse, sometimes fine until you hit 3rd powershift and it just stops. So you monkey with it for 20 mins or so then it gradually “comes to life” and your good to go all day. Trans press gauge is always in normal range, steering and lift arms are fine when it’s acting dumb…..just the tranny sluggishness. Another thing I notice is a vibration wen your in higher gears going down road (rpm and road speed doesn’t change it)but its very rhythmic like 1 Mississippi there 2 Mississippi gone and so on the steering wheel and cab and everything shakes like the dickens. Doesn’t do it in working condition in the field or with pto running something. At first I thought tires(I’ve had certain treads cause road vibration) but you could set ur watch to the on/off rhythm like maybe driveline vibration. I don’t have any knowledge on these powershifts so didn’t wanna start poking at things make it worse until I talk to someone more knowledgeable. Another thing to mention is I have to bring the clutch pedal clear up the last little bit with toe of my boot before it will move(even after it gets itself motivated from its dumb stage). Any advice is much appreciated. I’m pretty handy as I run a full time vehicle/equipment repair shop here at my farm just never laid wrench to one of these. Thanks!

 

[jon f mn]

First thing I ask someone new to these is did you loose the relief in the bottom of the filters when you changed them. It's not uncommon to drop them in the pail when you change the filters. You wouldn't be the first. I can't help .uch beyond that as I'm more into the 30 series.

 

[mEl]

I would immediately find out why the clutch pedal does not come up against its stop, the position of the clutch spool determines the amount of pressure going to C2 clutch which is your master clutch pac for starting out. Remove the floor plate and watch the clutch spool, it must go completely back into the body till it is stopped by the body. It also must come out till it is stopped by the body. There are stop bolts on the pedal to set the spool travel. Just any old spring on the pedal return is not good enough, even a mechanical clutch pedal spring is not strong enough for the power shift tractors. there are other things but look at that first. Your problems could be centered around that area. If it needs a clutch spring make sure it is for a powershift tractor, no substitutes.

 

[used red MN]

I am no expert just been around a couple of them and helped my buddy who at the time was just out of a two year ag mechanics tech school redo the trans and rear end in my dad and uncle’s 1070. First off get the clutch linkage limbered up and lubed. There is a spring up under the dash that should bring the pedal up to the stop. Use penetrating spray or whatever but once you get it free lube the joints with motor or transmission oil in a pump can. Penetrant oils usually evaporate away. If that clutch is not all the way up it is dumping oil from the C2 clutch pack essentially slipping it. Also make sure the actuation cable for the power shift lever moves freely. Make sure the valve under the operator’s deck clicks into its detents when it is shifting. Beyond that I know there are others with far more knowledge that hopefully will chime in.

 

[want@1070]

used red.MN.. got it , start with things outside Transmission then check pressure lines, if tractor has cab, check if front cab
mounts are good ( back mounts too) they may sag and affect clutch adjustment. I jump up and down on cab step to check first btdt.
sad part, not many old Case techs around
We got to figure out for ourselves.

 

[RFgarage]

awesome, i will check all of this when weather warms a bit. thanks so far everyone! gives me place to start and anything else anyone has to add in meantime is much appreciated! il let you know how i make out!