Aftermarket rear rim problems

MW3002

New User
Okay Everyone, I need some much needed help or was wondering if anyone else had this problem. I have a 1953 Super A that I tuned up and got it running like a dream. Well my latest problem with it is one of my rear tire rims rotted due to a blown tube and the previous owner had the tube loaded, which I didn't know about. My rims are definitely 9x24, 4 loop rims. I measured my old rim and center to center loops are 20" across and center to center 14" spacing between each loop. My loops are also square shape. Well I've ordered rims twice now from 2 different tractor supply places off eBay and each rim the spacing is off 1/2", 20 1/2" across C2C and 14 1/2" C2C loop spacing, each aftermarket rim has had the rounded loops instead of the square. And of course that 1/2" difference, makes it so the bolt holes don't line up with the rim to the hub on the tractor! Has anyone else had this issue? And if so, any ideas, on either to fix yourself or look very hard for a used rim that matches?
 
Looks like you are ordering rims for a Cub rather than an A. People manage to make them fit, but it usually isn't pretty.

First off, all the replacements now have the round lugs. If you want the original style, go searching for a good used one. Next, measure your bolt circle again. It should be 19.75. Cub rims are 20.5. Cub lugs also have 1 inch less offset. Width measurement is to the INSIDE of where the bead seats on the rim. Make sure you have that right. Most of the 4-lug rims I have seen, if about 8-inch or wider they have A lugs. Narrower have Cub style. I suggest you at least look up a couple widths of 24-inch rims on millertire. Their descriptions include the lug bolt circle. If your lugs are all good, I suppose you could get a blank rim and move the lugs to the new rim. That is no small task either.
 
Looks like you are ordering rims for a Cub rather than an A. People manage to make them fit, but it usually isn't pretty.

First off, all the replacements now have the round lugs. If you want the original style, go searching for a good used one. Next, measure your bolt circle again. It should be 19.75. Cub rims are 20.5. Cub lugs also have 1 inch less offset. Width measurement is to the INSIDE of where the bead seats on the rim. Make sure you have that right. Most of the 4-lug rims I have seen, if about 8-inch or wider they have A lugs. Narrower have Cub style. I suggest you at least look up a couple widths of 24-inch rims on millertire. Their descriptions include the lug bolt circle. If your lugs are all good, I suppose you could get a blank rim and move the lugs to the new rim. That is no small task either.
Yes mine are actually 19.75 inches, but both places I ordered from say in their description that center 2 center is 20 inches and that they are compatible with my super A tractor. Also when I measured the new rim it's 20.5" like I said. Also, it's definitely a 9x24, I measured inside of rim from bead to bead. The tires on there are 11.2x24. My old rim isn't in too bad of shape, but it rusted out around where the valve stem goes and I wouldn't be able to tighten the valve stem down to the rim. Do you think the old rim is still usable without the valve stem being tightened? Especially if I'm using a tube?
 
Use of the old rim as-is or with repairs is a possibility, depends on just how big the rusted hole is. Some people will weld a flat washer with the right size hole in as a patch. (Consider a fender washer.) Others have put in a patch to fill the entire opening, then move 1/4 turn away and put a new valve stem hole where there is better material. I'm not a welder so can't give you specifics on that job. Beware if there is galvanizing on the rim. With welding temperatures it will give off dangerous fumes.
 
Use of the old rim as-is or with repairs is a possibility, depends on just how big the rusted hole is. Some people will weld a flat washer with the right size hole in as a patch. (Consider a fender washer.) Others have put in a patch to fill the entire opening, then move 1/4 turn away and put a new valve stem hole where there is better material. I'm not a welder so can't give you specifics on that job. Beware if there is galvanizing on the rim. With welding temperatures it will give off dangerous fumes.
The washer idea is a good one. Was thinking about having a new piece welded and redrilling the valve stem hole. The hole is rotted to about 1 inch diameter maybe a bit more after cleaning up the metal for welding, so not too bad but enough to wear I wouldn't be able to tighten the valve stem.
 
In the photo ads on this site there is a guy named Paul who is always advertising wheels and tires the size you need. I would call him if I were you. As stated, a flat washer welded over the old valve stem hole works good.
Dave
 
Okay Everyone, I need some much needed help or was wondering if anyone else had this problem. I have a 1953 Super A that I tuned up and got it running like a dream. Well my latest problem with it is one of my rear tire rims rotted due to a blown tube and the previous owner had the tube loaded, which I didn't know about. My rims are definitely 9x24, 4 loop rims. I measured my old rim and center to center loops are 20" across and center to center 14" spacing between each loop. My loops are also square shape. Well I've ordered rims twice now from 2 different tractor supply places off eBay and each rim the spacing is off 1/2", 20 1/2" across C2C and 14 1/2" C2C loop spacing, each aftermarket rim has had the rounded loops instead of the square. And of course that 1/2" difference, makes it so the bolt holes don't line up with the rim to the hub on the tractor! Has anyone else had this issue? And if so, any ideas, on either to fix yourself or look very hard for a used rim that matches?
The round loops are meant to use carriage bolts instead of square headed bolts like OEM.
 
Just weld the hole shut on the rim then drill the hole out to fit the stem which is a 5/8 hole. Drilling the same hole over after welding lets the stem set at the same angle and location as it did when new. I did this to an 18/ inch tire rim for my 806 and built the rim thickness up just a bit then ground it back down to fit the tube with hole drilled in it. Has been there a year now with good results. I also using a file knocked the sharp edges off the edge of the new hole so it was not sharp to the tube.
 
Okay Everyone, I need some much needed help or was wondering if anyone else had this problem. I have a 1953 Super A that I tuned up and got it running like a dream. Well my latest problem with it is one of my rear tire rims rotted due to a blown tube and the previous owner had the tube loaded, which I didn't know about. My rims are definitely 9x24, 4 loop rims. I measured my old rim and center to center loops are 20" across and center to center 14" spacing between each loop. My loops are also square shape. Well I've ordered rims twice now from 2 different tractor supply places off eBay and each rim the spacing is off 1/2", 20 1/2" across C2C and 14 1/2" C2C loop spacing, each aftermarket rim has had the rounded loops instead of the square. And of course that 1/2" difference, makes it so the bolt holes don't line up with the rim to the hub on the tractor! Has anyone else had this issue? And if so, any ideas, on either to fix yourself or look very hard for a used rim that matches?
Your best solution is to buy 2 new 9 x 24 blank rims, grind the rivets off the old rims that hold the square loops on and weld them to the new rims through the rivet holes. I have done this on 3 sets of rims with 100% success. 1 set 9 inch rims and 2 sets with wider rims for wider tires.
 
Okay Everyone, I need some much needed help or was wondering if anyone else had this problem. I have a 1953 Super A that I tuned up and got it running like a dream. Well my latest problem with it is one of my rear tire rims rotted due to a blown tube and the previous owner had the tube loaded, which I didn't know about. My rims are definitely 9x24, 4 loop rims. I measured my old rim and center to center loops are 20" across and center to center 14" spacing between each loop. My loops are also square shape. Well I've ordered rims twice now from 2 different tractor supply places off eBay and each rim the spacing is off 1/2", 20 1/2" across C2C and 14 1/2" C2C loop spacing, each aftermarket rim has had the rounded loops instead of the square. And of course that 1/2" difference, makes it so the bolt holes don't line up with the rim to the hub on the tractor! Has anyone else had this issue? And if so, any ideas, on either to fix yourself or look very hard for a used rim that matches?
Yes repair can be a good option. I have repaired many that I was told could not be repaired but I repaired them any how. My BA which is half B and half A has rims that I repaired on it
 
Thanks for all the advice and replies everyone. Was able to find a square washer that welded perfect in the place of rusted out valve stem hole. I just had to drill the hole out to fit the valve stem but got the tire back on and works good.
 
not necessarily . I just run into the same problem with 10" wide rims. they are not for a Cub
So what did you do? Send the new rim back? Or the use the old rim? Me welding a washer worked for the valve stem hole, but idk how long my old rim is going to last. The rust pitted pretty bad on it, no holes yet except around the valve stem. I don't plan on ever loading it with water so I don't have to worry about more rust from a loaded tube breaking again. IDK, maybe when the weather gets warm again I'll sand and polish the rim and spray some rust inhibitor on the inside and out. it looks like all the new aftermarket rims out there have the same issue with the round loops and the spacing is off. Luckily I don't plan on driving my tractor at full speeds on the road, just going to use it for hobby work around the homestead, so hopefully my old rim lasts awhile.
 
So what did you do? Send the new rim back? Or the use the old rim? Me welding a washer worked for the valve stem hole, but idk how long my old rim is going to last. The rust pitted pretty bad on it, no holes yet except around the valve stem. I don't plan on ever loading it with water so I don't have to worry about more rust from a loaded tube breaking again. IDK, maybe when the weather gets warm again I'll sand and polish the rim and spray some rust inhibitor on the inside and out. it looks like all the new aftermarket rims out there have the same issue with the round loops and the spacing is off. Luckily I don't plan on driving my tractor at full speeds on the road, just going to use it for hobby work around the homestead, so hopefully my old rim lasts awhile.
I just cut the the loops off with a cutoff wheel on grinder and installed the OEM square ones on the new rims. not too difficult, just measured the depth of the original ones and bolted the center on all 4 OEM sq. loops to hold the spacing
 

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