Allis Chalmers 140s apron sprockets

I have one apron drive sprocket with a missing tooth. While going over machine I noticed the two front idler sprockets are 7 tooth, while the rear drive sprockets are 6 tooth, and also seem like a different profile. The apron in 67h detachable, the typical flat older style. If this seems right my question is-where to find the correct rear sprocket. Parts book just ordered but not sure numbers will help.
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I have one apron drive sprocket with a missing tooth. While going over machine I noticed the two front idler sprockets are 7 tooth, while the rear drive sprockets are 6 tooth, and also seem like a different profile. The apron in 67h detachable, the typical flat older style. If this seems right my question is-where to find the correct rear sprocket. Parts book just ordered but not sure numbers will help.View attachment 88531iView attachment 88532
Most older spreaders and silage wagons have 67H apron drive sprockets. Just find some with same shaft diameter.
 
What about the different tooth count and profile from front idler to rear drive? Also if that's not an issue will it matter if tooth profile is different from one side to the other in the drive sprockets if tooth count , hub, and shaft diameter are same? Not sure if the pictures in original post show the different profiles.IMG_20240929_185638.jpgIMG_20240929_181154.jpg
 
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The front is just an idler, so it could have 7 teeth or 29 teeth and it wouldn't matter with respect to the rear.

What matters is the sprockets on the same shaft have the same number of teeth, and are designed for 67H chain. Go with whatever sprockets you can find, and don't worry about tooth profile.
 
Some of those sprockets are cast or malleable which does not weld good. Needs to be preheated then welded and then cooled slowly so as to not crack from the heat of the welding. Mostly by the shrinkage of cooling to fast. The profile as you call it is probably the wear of the front of the tooth from the chain and use. They could either be ground back so as not to have a hook on the pulling side of the sprocket or turned around to have a new side for the wear. They would probably have to switch sides so the hub portion is in the correct orientation. For a manure spreader I would probably opt for the more pointed tooth sprocket so the teeth will psh out through the manure better in the chain holes unlike a silage wagon with pretty clean material going over the floor manure has dirt and debris stones and such if loading off a dirt bottom or outside.
 
Thanks @BarnyardEngineering . Any old spreaders around here have different shaft size. Looking like weld on sprockets and the correct size hub from Shoups will be my best option.
I would assume (assume being the operative term) that a weld-on sprocket will weld just fine to a hub designed to mate with it.

I'm finding this choice to be more and more prevalent, even for equipment that has OEM sprockets still available.

When I go to our local equipment dealer looking for a sheave or sprocket, more times than not, they take me to their extensive collection of sheaves, sprockets and hubs... and we play Wheel of Fortune (the old style... where you bought things with your winnings)... to mix and match, until I can make the sheave or sprocket that I need.

Seems as though they think it more efficient to stock the hubs and sheaves/sprockets as separate items, as opposed to stocking all of the possible variations.

I would go for the longer teeth also, if they were available.
 
The apron it came with only had 8 slats, which I assume added some undue stress to all the components.
The slats are 1/4" 1"x2" angle iron. Any reason 2x2 should not be mixed in? I can't see where clearance would be an issue. Would it possibly be trying to move to much material at once?
I'm going to have to replace most all of the links. Someone must have bought a 10' roll and pieced it in where needed. I took it all apart and there were 4 stages or ages of links. Surprising difference in length having 7 links of each side by side. They are all 67H flat detachable, not the S that is on some spreaders.
 
The apron it came with only had 8 slats, which I assume added some undue stress to all the components.
The slats are 1/4" 1"x2" angle iron. Any reason 2x2 should not be mixed in? I can't see where clearance would be an issue. Would it possibly be trying to move to much material at once?
I'm going to have to replace most all of the links. Someone must have bought a 10' roll and pieced it in where needed. I took it all apart and there were 4 stages or ages of links. Surprising difference in length having 7 links of each side by side. They are all 67H flat detachable, not the S that is on some spreaders.
I just sold and gave away 12 aprons of 67H chain with slats from Rex forage boxes.The chain was good with3/8" slat rivets . My point is that good used chain is available for any slats you like.
 
I just sold and gave away 12 aprons of 67H chain with slats from Rex forage boxes.The chain was good with3/8" slat rivets . My point is that good used chain is available for any slats you like.
Unfortunately there are no self unloading forage wagons around here, the high dumping ones are all I've ever seen. Looked at three used spreaders yesterday but the apron links were too far gone. I'll keep looking though, your post did not fall on deaf ears.
 

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