Alternator and Fan Belt Pulley assembly replacement Farmall H

[Cdog2cool4u]

I was working on installing an alternator on my Farmall H and found a crack on the water pump pulley flange as I was working on loosing it so I could put my alternator belt on. Before I tear the front half of the tractor apart. Do I need to remove the radiator to replace this pulley flange? Or is there a better way to replace this part ? Any assistance you can give me would be greatly appreciated.

 

[used red MN]

Show us a photo of the crack, there may be no harm in the part staying in place it may function fine. If you’re concerned about cosmetics go ahead and change it.

 

[Cdog2cool4u]

This is what I'm seeing. From the best I can tell it looks like it's probably cracked all the way though this side of the pulley flange.

 

[used red MN]

I’ll have to admit that doesn’t look ideal, but it may run like that for a long time. Here is a video of changing out the pump in an M, the H should be similar. Farmall M water pump Not sure how easily the bolts will come out of the grill shell on your tractor, not sure if that needs to be pulled off or not. He skips the part where he has loosened the support rod that goes back next to the gauges. That allows the radiator to tip forward slightly to give a bit more room. I would suggest cutting a couple strips of cardboard to slip in vertically against the radiator to protect it during the process.

 

[rustred]

I was working on installing an alternator on my Farmall H and found a crack on the water pump pulley flange as I was working on loosing it so I could put my alternator belt on. Before I tear the front half of the tractor apart. Do I need to remove the radiator to replace this pulley flange? Or is there a better way to replace this part ? Any assistance you can give me would be greatly appreciated.

to do the job properly and have room to work and not damage the rad and not risk swearin while doin the job it best to remove the rad. i know on the w4 there is only about 2 inch of space between the pump brive bolts and the rad. then to replace that pulley you need to tear the pump apart. so just find another useable pump and change it out. cause if you find the pully it will most likely be with the pump anyhow. talking all used here as new is out of the question. then there is the packing to check make sure the packing nut is not bottomed out. looks like that belt is riding low in the groove due to being short maybe. so check that out. against the new part number to make sure its correct. plus these farmalls like to have the steering rod run through the rad. you need to pull that back also. with that crack once the threads are all cleaned up and they will be loose which is not good. so the easiest and simplist is its an r + r with a good used one.

 

[D Slater]

View attachment 109465View attachment 109466
This is what I'm seeing. From the best I can tell it looks like it's probably cracked all the way though this side of the pulley flange.

Theres a way to get pump out but you will wish the front bolster was moved forward. Would recommend leaving radiator on and steering shaft in bolster, loosen rear steering shaft where slides on front shaft and remove 2 bolts in shaft support. Remove bolster or move forward. If no problem with pump you can leave main housing on. Remove fan and parts to get a nut retaining hub. Slide hub off. Generator pulley then needs removed to get adjustable one to thread part of hub. If adjustable in bad shape you can put a chisel in crack and bust off then clean threads up unless it screws off easy. Picture doesn't show broke pully but hub and generator pulley with pin stuck up that needs removed to remove it. Have to look close to find pin in old pumps. Drive to inside.

 

[wh]

Had a crack in one just like that many years ago. Had just enough room to use air grinder and get a V ground into crack after removing belt. Used a nickel rod and stitched it slowly then ground smooth. Still going strong. .

 

[Dennis K (WA)]

I agree with @D Slater that it could be easier to slide the front bolster out. Could give you about 6" of space and still be engaged in the frame rails. Would help also to loosen the front engine mount bolts each side. This would give you some wiggle room sliding the bolster. Probably wouldn't even have to remove the grill. Good luck. decisions, decisions Dennis