Alternator update from a couple days ago

[super99]

I posted about installing a 1 wire alternator on my Oliver super 88 diesel earlier. I got it on and hooked up, I think the ammeter guage is froze up, not showing charge or discharge when cranking. I replaced the guage and it shows just a little discharge when cranking but no charge when running. Guess it’s not a one wire alternator after all. There is no starter switch, what do I need to add to excite the alternator? Just a toggle switch to turn on to start charging?? I included a wiring diagram from the manual, no plans to add lights for now . Any suggestions?

 

[tom upton]

I assume you revved it up to try and get it to start charging?

 

[bob p mn]

I installed one similar to that one a couple years ago on a Farmall H, I bought it from my local rebuilder he gave me a pigtail to plug into the back of the unit and if I remember right I had to send 12 volts to one of those spade lugs . I would try and check with whoever you got it from for the proper wiring instructions. That wire feeding the spade terminal had to be switched.

 

[55 50 Ron]

I posted about installing a 1 wire alternator on my Oliver super 88 diesel earlier. I got it on and hooked up, I think the ammeter guage is froze up, not showing charge or discharge when cranking. I replaced the guage and it shows just a little discharge when cranking but no charge when running. Guess it’s not a one wire alternator after all. There is no starter switch, what do I need to add to excite the alternator? Just a toggle switch to turn on to start charging?? I included a wiring diagram from the manual, no plans to add lights for now . Any suggestions?View attachment 87859View attachment 87860View attachment 87861View attachment 87862View attachment 87863View attachment 87865View attachment 87864

I posted about installing a 1 wire alternator on my Oliver super 88 diesel earlier. I got it on and hooked up, I think the ammeter guage is froze up, not showing charge or discharge when cranking. I replaced the guage and it shows just a little discharge when cranking but no charge when running. Guess it’s not a one wire alternator after all. There is no starter switch, what do I need to add to excite the alternator? Just a toggle switch to turn on to start charging?? I included a wiring diagram from the manual, no plans to add lights for now . Any suggestions?View attachment 87859View attachment 87860View attachment 87861View attachment 87862View attachment 87863View attachment 87865View attachment 87864

The starter current does not pass through the ammeter and neither does the starter solenoid current (according to schematic) so you will not see any minus reading when cranking. The alternator mounting points all need to be free of paint, rust and dirt to provide a good chassis connection for the alternator. I would say that's not a one wire alternator. Most likely needs a short wire from the main output post to the black plastic connector - I don't remember which terminal to use in that connector.

 

[55 50 Ron]

The starter current does not pass through the ammeter and neither does the starter solenoid current (according to schematic) so you will not see any minus reading when cranking. The alternator mounting points all need to be free of paint, rust and dirt to provide a good chassis connection for the alternator. I would say that's not a one wire alternator. Most likely needs a short wire from the main output post to the black plastic connector - I don't remember which terminal to use in that connector.

 

[super99]

I assume you revved it up to try and get it to start charging?

yes

 

[47fivewindow]

That seems to be a 3 wire alt. The large battery must be hooked to the spade farthest from the big connection. The closer slade is hot only when the key is on, with a light bulb or a diode in series. Google 3 wire alt. for more advice. Good luck.

 

[Mule Meat]

Single wire alternator

 

[JMOR]

Single wire alternator

View attachment 87882

Totally useless comment! Did you not even look at the photo of the alternator that the has?!!!!!

 

[moresmoke]

That seems to be a 3 wire alt. The large battery must be hooked to the spade farthest from the big connection. The closer slade is hot only when the key is on, with a light bulb or a diode in series. Google 3 wire alt. for more advice. Good luck.

Given that it is on a diesel, the light bulb or diode is not required. The engine is shut off by the fuel, not electrically. But yes there will need to be a switch to cut the exciting power to the alternator. An oil pressure switch could be used to do this automatically and not need to remember to throw a toggle switch.

 

[used red MN]

There is a problem with the description of your alternator they left out 4 words “one big and two small wire” alternator. The plug in the back has spades arranged in a T, you will have to have switched power the spade that crosses the T. The problem is I don’t think you have an ignition switch. You will need to get a two prong oil pressure switch and tee it into engine oil pressure. Feed power into one side and connect the other side to the top terminal of the T. For others who say you need a diode in the circuit it is not needed because you have a diesel with a manual pump kill. Here is an example switch. Example pressure switch Standard PS-135 this one may be 1/4” NPT, should be able to get one with 1/8” pipe usually the common oil pressure line size, not sure on your set up.
Edit: Maybe “five window” has the proper wiring layout. I am not real certain I have correct information on the wiring for the Hitachi. The info I am seeing says top of the T switched power and the leg of the T is for an optional warning lamp.

 

[47fivewindow]

There is a problem with the description of your alternator they left out 4 words “one big and two small wire” alternator. The plug in the back has spades arranged in a T, you will have to have switched power the spade that crosses the T. The problem is I don’t think you have an ignition switch. You will need to get a two prong oil pressure switch and tee it into engine oil pressure. Feed power into one side and connect the other side to the top terminal of the T. For others who say you need a diode in the circuit it is not needed because you have a diesel with a manual pump kill. Here is an example switch. Example pressure switch Standard PS-135 this one may be 1/4” NPT, should be able to get one with 1/8” pipe usually the common oil pressure line size, not sure on your set up.
Edit: Maybe “five window” has the proper wiring layout. I am not real certain I have correct information on the wiring for the Hitachi. The info I am seeing says top of the T switched power and the leg of the T is for an optional warning lamp.

Thanks for the help. My experience is with Delco.