Any way to widen fender attachments on a 1949 M?

zanny1

New User
Location
Phoenix Arizona
At 72, it is getting more difficult to climb on to my 1949 M.
I always knew these tractors were hard to get on and off.... but this one had original tin, mostly original paint, runs great, everything works, couldn't pass it up a few years ago. I use the tractor occasionally around the property for odd jobs. It is reliable, has no major leaks.... just a good old original tractor.
So before you say "sell it", I'd like to know if I could fab something to bring at least one of the fenders out a few inches. Left side probably easier than right side, although I'd prefer to do both.
Steps are available, but I don't see how they would help.
Anybody here done this?
Thanks.
 

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I think Dad's 560 had a steel plate bolted to the axle housing and then holes drilled in the plate farther out to give more room. There were spacers under the plate that raised it up for bolt clearance.
 
I wish it was that easy. There are several attachment points to the trans/diff that make a simple addition of a "plate" not so simple.
Like to hear if "MMan" has any suggestions!
 
I wish it was that easy. There are several attachment points to the trans/diff that make a simple addition of a "plate" not so simple.
Like to hear if "MMan" has any suggestions!
Could you do a plate up on the fender and a piece of c-channel down where the step connects to the trans to space it out?
 
I wish it was that easy. There are several attachment points to the trans/diff that make a simple addition of a "plate" not so simple.
Like to hear if "MMan" has any suggestions!
The plate would bolt where the fenders are now bolted. With holes drilled in the plate farther out for your fenders to bolt to.
 
You would have to bring this up and get me thinking about it again! Lol

I thought about it when I was young but all I had then was a stick welder and not much time. It's a little different now. I have a wire welder for thin stuff and I'm 70 so life shouldn't get in the way as much.

What I think I'll do is take it off. Cut the bottom plate at the corner where the hump is. Weld a piece of 4 inch flat between the two pieces. No worries about it bolting up then. Add a 4 inch piece onto the fender. Probably notch out the fender and weld in the plate. Measure and bore those two holes. For the rear cut at the top of the angle and weld a 4 inch piece between the two.

Sounds simple enough. Your thoughts?
 
You would have to bring this up and get me thinking about it again! Lol

I thought about it when I was young but all I had then was a stick welder and not much time. It's a little different now. I have a wire welder for thin stuff and I'm 70 so life shouldn't get in the way as much.

What I think I'll do is take it off. Cut the bottom plate at the corner where the hump is. Weld a piece of 4 inch flat between the two pieces. No worries about it bolting up then. Add a 4 inch piece onto the fender. Probably notch out the fender and weld in the plate. Measure and bore those two holes. For the rear cut at the top of the angle and weld a 4 inch piece between the two.

Sounds simple enough. Your thoughts?
Pics
 

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No backing out now. Picked up the steel this morning. Cut the pieces off the right fender. Cut the pieces to weld in. 2 - 4x15, 2 - 4x7, and 2 - 1 1/2 x4. Hopefully I can get it tacked together in a few days for a test run.

Thought about dropping back to 3 inches but there's room for 4 and that will allow my boot to clear the pedals when I step up.
 
Thanks, M-Man. Looking forward to seeing how your project come out. I'm not much of a welder, so any changes will have to be made with adapters. The flats under the outer mounts are not a problem. The attachments to the frame are my biggest concern.
 
Not much of a welder myself so we'll see how it goes in a few days.

I was thinking about adapters this morning when I walked by and asked myself why not? Where it bolts to the transmission is easy. All you need there is a piece of 1/8 steel however wide you want it to be + 2 inches for a turned down lip [ 1 inch each side ] on each side. Then another small piece for the rear tab. The steel shop will bend it for you. Duplicate the cut outs on the inside with a small side grinder and cutoff wheel. Bore the holes and bolt it together. The fender side rear support is big enough to put one of the mounting holes in it. Wouldn't be hard to make a small strap for the other.

Just some thoughts.
 
I welded a plate in like M-man showed on each side, I think I used 3 inches but if 4 works I would go for it! It made it a lot easier to get on and didn't cramp your toes when you turned to get in the seat and no one was the wiser.
 
At 72, it is getting more difficult to climb on to my 1949 M.
I always knew these tractors were hard to get on and off.... but this one had original tin, mostly original paint, runs great, everything works, couldn't pass it up a few years ago. I use the tractor occasionally around the property for odd jobs. It is reliable, has no major leaks.... just a good old original tractor.
So before you say "sell it", I'd like to know if I could fab something to bring at least one of the fenders out a few inches. Left side probably easier than right side, although I'd prefer to do both.
Steps are available, but I don't see how they would help.
Anybody here done this?
Thanks.
My JD 520.......Much,Much easier getting on and off.
Think outside the box you can make a step MUCH better than JD ever did.
 

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Finally got around to a test fit this morning. 4 inches won't work.😂 It hits the final drive. Then I had the brilliant idea of pulling out a tape measure and checking the other side. 🙄 It's almost 3 5/8 between the fender and final. I'll cut a strip out and weld it back and see what I have then.
 

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