Barn roof repair / replacement opnions.

I'm not exactly sure how to describe this type of barn roof so I'm open to suggestions there. I've always called it a "round roof", but that isn't exactly accurate.

Anyway, there are multiple leaks and I'm trying to get things sealed up. It is covered with corrugated steel that isn't "tight" against the supporting boards anymore. Current plan is to rent a lift and screw things tight and start caulking seams.

I'm just looking for other options. Replace the metal with new something? I don't think that current barn siding metal will bend to fit that curve without kinking. Shingles would need a layer of plywood underneath, but the roof is almost completely flat at the very top.

The barn is in central Ohio, USA and built in 1929 by my great uncle.
 

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Kudos for undertaking to fix it!! I am sure that originally it was wood shingles. I would look into getting a roofer to shingle it with fiberglass shingles. Maybe you could get a guy who will miss measure like mine did and get three squares free.
 
I'm not exactly sure how to describe this type of barn roof so I'm open to suggestions there. I've always called it a "round roof", but that isn't exactly accurate.

Anyway, there are multiple leaks and I'm trying to get things sealed up. It is covered with corrugated steel that isn't "tight" against the supporting boards anymore. Current plan is to rent a lift and screw things tight and start caulking seams.

I'm just looking for other options. Replace the metal with new something? I don't think that current barn siding metal will bend to fit that curve without kinking. Shingles would need a layer of plywood underneath, but the roof is almost completely flat at the very top.

The barn is in central Ohio, USA and built in 1929 by my great uncle.
My neighbor had new metal put on his barn. It wasn't a curved roof.
He hired an Amish crew with the right tools to remove the old metal and put new on.
Sorry I can't see bending metal for a round roof without the right tools.
I would think hiring someone would be cheaper than an ER visit.
I think there are times we realize we can't do everything.
I know a farmer that thought he could build a pole barn.
He fell and broke both legs.
Please find help.
 
@ShawnR

Conical Roof

It looks to be a constant curve.

These guys do it.


And I bet there are in Ohio too.

Modern corrugated can also be rolled to a specific radius. Especially since the current cheapest stuff is a thinner gauge than what is up there now, guaranteed.

I was going to build a shelter with curved corrugated. I figured I could cobble up a bender with three axles of roller blade wheels.
With the center axle being adjustable up and down and crankable to get the curve as the sheet was fed thru. I got enough wheels at a thrift store but they are still hanging in a bag in the shop waiting.

If you are thinking of removing the old and reinstalling or lifting the long edge enough for sealing, I would suggest butyl rubber tape or sealant in a cartridge type tube.
 
The metal with small corrugations can be bent to some extent. Some research my provide answers.

  • Panel Profile:
    Panels with shallower rib heights and continuous corrugation patterns are generally easier to curve than those with distinct high ribs and flat areas.

 
The metal with small corrugations can be bent to some extent. Some research my provide answers.

  • Panel Profile:
    Panels with shallower rib heights and continuous corrugation patterns are generally easier to curve than those with distinct high ribs and flat areas.

Yes.

Our barn has a hip roof section. The corrugated roofing was bent to make the final pitch at the eaves with no problems.... by somebody... like 50 years ago.

If I had to do this, I would get my hands on a new sheet of the material... define the same curvature on the ground with some wooden stakes... then take the piece of material, lay it on edge... and bend it to the profile defined by the stakes (as if you were making a fence with the same curvature)... and see how the material reacts...

The good thing in your situation is; you're ahead of the curve. That roof is still in good shape compared to many old barns.
 
As for shingles, shingles will require perfect sheathing; which means complete tearoff and resheathing to the rafters.

For kicks, I had a roofing company quote our barn roof for shingles. 7200 sq ft... they started their quote at about 18 dollars per square foot... after a couple of gotta talk to the manager cycles... they got it all the way down to 13.75 per square foot! (dripping with sarcasm here)... and... of course! they had a loan at, like 16% interest for 30 years...

So, take my sarcasm as a lesson, not a discouragement... as in... if you have it done, find a roofing company, not a travelling finance company masquerading as roofers...

Usually, that means the Amish.

That also usually means that you'll have to come up with the cash somehow.



Metal itself can be more expensive than shingles per square foot, but many barns have metal over imperfect sheathing, or even bare purlins. So, in the end, corrugated metal can be the most cost effective option for an unheated hayloft with imperfect sheathing or purlins...
 
I have no experience with them and I don't know how much weight it would add but I've seen adds for companies that spray a coating on existing metal roofs? Probably very pricey.
 
I'm not exactly sure how to describe this type of barn roof so I'm open to suggestions there. I've always called it a "round roof", but that isn't exactly accurate.

Anyway, there are multiple leaks and I'm trying to get things sealed up. It is covered with corrugated steel that isn't "tight" against the supporting boards anymore. Current plan is to rent a lift and screw things tight and start caulking seams.

I'm just looking for other options. Replace the metal with new something? I don't think that current barn siding metal will bend to fit that curve without kinking. Shingles would need a layer of plywood underneath, but the roof is almost completely flat at the very top.

The barn is in central Ohio, USA and built in 1929 by my great uncle.
Using Urethane based archetectural grade caulk from Sika or other pro (not big box) brands under the laps that leak then using exterior gasketed screws to tighten those joints would be appropriate. There does not look like much heavy rust. Jim
 
I'm not exactly sure how to describe this type of barn roof so I'm open to suggestions there. I've always called it a "round roof", but that isn't exactly accurate.

Anyway, there are multiple leaks and I'm trying to get things sealed up. It is covered with corrugated steel that isn't "tight" against the supporting boards anymore. Current plan is to rent a lift and screw things tight and start caulking seams.

I'm just looking for other options. Replace the metal with new something? I don't think that current barn siding metal will bend to fit that curve without kinking. Shingles would need a layer of plywood underneath, but the roof is almost completely flat at the very top.

The barn is in central Ohio, USA and built in 1929 by my great uncle.
I am in North Central Wisconsin. We have several local small construction crews that put metal on that type of curved roof. Many of them are Amish. I also thought it would buckle and kink when placed down, but they look good. Steve.
 
Using Urethane based archetectural grade caulk from Sika or other pro (not big box) brands under the laps that leak then using exterior gasketed screws to tighten those joints would be appropriate. There does not look like much heavy rust. Jim
I have a thread going over in Tractor Tales where I tried this process (albeit with a different roofing cement/caulk) on a test section of roof at our place.

It's leaking.

But... the roof in this thread appears to be much simpler (less chance for flashing issues) and in better overall condition.

What I (or any of us) can't see is the condition of the underlayment/barnboards/purlins/old shingle roof.... whatever is underneath. If that doesn't hold a screw, re-screwing is... screwed.
 
My neighbor had new metal put on his barn. It wasn't a curved roof.
He hired an Amish crew with the right tools to remove the old metal and put new on.
Sorry I can't see bending metal for a round roof without the right tools.
I would think hiring someone would be cheaper than an ER visit.
I think there are times we realize we can't do everything.
I know a farmer that thought he could build a pole barn.
He fell and broke both legs.
Please find h
Nice fear mongering. You dont need special tools to bend roof steel. Also, pole barn builders and roofers fall and get hurt. Your blowing one specific story out of proportion
 
Another option is you could put new metal on there running "crossways", it will bend fine that way. I don't think it's ideal but that's the way it's done on those metal carport type buildings you see and it seems to work fine (no leaks).
 
I'm not exactly sure how to describe this type of barn roof so I'm open to suggestions there. I've always called it a "round roof", but that isn't exactly accurate.

Anyway, there are multiple leaks and I'm trying to get things sealed up. It is covered with corrugated steel that isn't "tight" against the supporting boards anymore. Current plan is to rent a lift and screw things tight and start caulking seams.

I'm just looking for other options. Replace the metal with new something? I don't think that current barn siding metal will bend to fit that curve without kinking. Shingles would need a layer of plywood underneath, but the roof is almost completely flat at the very top.

The barn is in central Ohio, USA and built in 1929 by my great uncle.
It might pay to talk to some roofers to get some alternatives, recommendations and quotes. Multiple leaks is pretty vague, a dozen leaks over a 1000 plus square foot 50 year old metal roof is pretty minor, a leak at every nail and every inch of seam would be major. You might be pleasantly surprised, or decide to live with it as-is..

That looks like way more than a one man job unless you want to rent a lift and scaffolding for weeks. Good luck finding volunteer labor to work that high off the ground.

As already mentioned, you can disregard Geo's warning about serious injuries, if you like most of us here over 65 the fall will probably kill ya.
 
It might pay to talk to some roofers to get some alternatives, recommendations and quotes. Multiple leaks is pretty vague, a dozen leaks over a 1000 plus square foot 50 year old metal roof is pretty minor, a leak at every nail and every inch of seam would be major. You might be pleasantly surprised, or decide to live with it as-is..

That looks like way more than a one man job unless you want to rent a lift and scaffolding for weeks. Good luck finding volunteer labor to work that high off the ground.

As already mentioned, you can disregard Geo's warning about serious injuries, if you like most of us here over 65 the fall will probably kill ya.
55 I was thinking the same on getting professional opinions in his area/state. Look at Insurance, codes, products and technics. Now they have a harness and fall arrest equipment and yes it should be used.
 
I'm not exactly sure how to describe this type of barn roof so I'm open to suggestions there. I've always called it a "round roof", but that isn't exactly accurate.

Anyway, there are multiple leaks and I'm trying to get things sealed up. It is covered with corrugated steel that isn't "tight" against the supporting boards anymore. Current plan is to rent a lift and screw things tight and start caulking seams.

I'm just looking for other options. Replace the metal with new something? I don't think that current barn siding metal will bend to fit that curve without kinking. Shingles would need a layer of plywood underneath, but the roof is almost completely flat at the very top.

The barn is in central Ohio, USA and built in 1929 by my great uncle.
Late to the party, but will confirm a corrugated sheet will bend that roof at a full length sheet. Back in 77 Pa was told the 8” pro rib would perform that task. Ma was excited and wanted white. That made Pa excited. It didn’t. It kinked the ribs. Ma was sad. That made Pa mad.
So a week later a load of 2” rib galvanized 24ga showed up and was installed. They didn’t offer colored steel outside of pro rib at the time. That roof is still on today.
Talk to a supplier there are rib options out there. 3/4”, 1”, 2”.
 
Take your time and find an Amish crew to put new steel on it. With you living in Ohio they are available and reliable. Also google "Barn Preservation Ohio" This will also give you some leads.
 
Kudos for undertaking to fix it!! I am sure that originally it was wood shingles. I would look into getting a roofer to shingle it with fiberglass shingles. Maybe you could get a guy who will miss measure like mine did and get three squares free.
Fiberglass shingles are garbage and will be falling off that barn in 10 years.

MAYBE if they were asphalt T-lock style shingles, but the modern 3-in-1 tab or "architectural" shingles will not hold on a roof that steep.

You just need to find the right roofer to do the job if you want to replace it. Getting it nailed back down and caulked up is probably all it really needs, though.
 

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