Best Moline to start with

[Hotflashjr]

I am a green kind of guy, and am almost finished with my first restoration of a JD LA. I have already started looking for my next tractor. I really like the look of the Minnie Mo's and there are not many here in Massachusetts. At he local shows this past summer I can count the number of them on 1 hand for the most part. For these reasons I am really leaning towards one of these for my next project. So, on to my question. Opinions on what would be a good first tractor to restore getting into these? I really like the Z's & U's. Anything to look for, stay away from? Ease of finding parts and cost? Thanks.

 

[Alan K]

A Z or U would be a good choice as parts are usually available somewhere and they are fairly easy to work on.

 

[Blackland Dan]

I wish I had asked this question last year when I got my first restores. I went to a tractor pull and fell in love with the Minnies. So, when I happened on to a couple of G6s at a good price, I bought them. Both engines locked, but good straight units. This has been quite an experience and I would be totally lost if now for the good heads on this forum. I'm going to build them and sell them. I really like the looks of the 335, 445, 4 & 5 Star LP tractors. One of these will be my next restore. Now I'll ask the same question, which one of these will be the easiest to restore, i.e. finding parts, etc?

 

[Curt Cooke]

I would recommend a U. The Z's and R's are side valve engines,unconventional in their design. As a MM enthusiast I want you to become likewise enthused and fear that working with those engines may not impress you a whole lot. The U is also the most common of the bunch and parts, particularly used, are abundant. On the downside, the U is bigger, takes up more space.

 

[Hotflashjr]

That is great info as far as the difference between the U & Z's. I am sued to the 2-cylinder Johny Poppers which are somewhat simple in design and function. What are the differences between the different model U's. Is it more just options than anything else?

I have seen a few U's listed on this site unrestored or partially done between $1500 and $2500. Is this in the ballpark for a fair asking price? Thanks again for all the help.

 

[Curt Cooke]

Of the one's you mentioned, I would recommend the 4 star row crop. I had a 445 row crop and still do have a 4 star Super. I didn't like the seating arrangement of the 445, you kind'a sit down in a hole like a typical utility type tractor and the seat frame work is always trouble. With the 4 star you sit up high and the seat, on a Super, is the same as an M5, G6, 705, etc., much easier to deal with repair or complete replacement if necessary. I didn't like the clutch pedal arrangement either vs. the 4star. Lastly, and this could easily have been a symptom of my 445, the noise in the TA was an issue and it had supposedly been renewed; it worked fine but was noisy. I don't think parts are an issue with any of them, of course their dash and gauges is about hopeless but that applies to all of them. Blackland, we should have commiserated when I bought 2 705s, the diesel was stuck and had a bad pinion, the LP was a runner but ring and pinion again. My whole barn was MM carnage for quite a while.

 

[Anonymous-0]

you can't find a nicer tractor too play then a ZBU or ZBE , ease too work on , fun to handel , a real sweet 37 hp tractor , i have 3 now !! i have 1 UBD special , 1 jetstar 3 super , but the ZB's get 90 % of my time !!!

 

[molinebob]

I would reccomend a U to start with. I just finished a 1951 UTS, did not paint it or anything like that I just un froze the engine and put new bearings rings and pistons in it, Real simple design to work on. Good luck. Bob

 

[molinegb]

I first started with a 5* diesel, then got hooked on the R. Still think a R is one of the smoothest running motors. Just my opinion.

 

[Kevin Moschenrose]

I would agree with Curt on this as well. But my choice would be the 5 Star. I like them alot and own all three fuel type and all 1958 models. Also if you are a Connie fan "Constellation fan" one tractor you didn't mention that you may want to look at is the super sweet Jetstar. I have one of those as well. I haven't got a 4 star "yet".

 

[Kevin Moschenrose]

By far a very good choice is any of the model U tractors. A 1950 UTS was my first love for Minnies and we all really can remember our first loves!

 

[Clint Youse MO]

None of them are to hard to work on we got U's ,Z's a R an M5 a G900 and others and as far as motor they are all straight forward I like working on the Z and R motors no laying under them geting oil drips in the face the side valve is easy to work on basically they just took out the push rods and put in rocker arms straight to the cam parts are pretty easy to come by for the R Z and U if the motor is stuck a R and Z motor is harder to get the pistons out than the U blocks I would take any of them they are all good tractors U will weigh about 6000 R and Z about 3500 give or take a little look at what you want.

 

[Paul in MN]

I think you will find the Z and U tractors available for similar money, condition being much more important than which model in determining the price. Parts availability is similar and sometimes challenging, but not impossible. I have both a ZB and a UB. When I got the ZB, I had no idea about the unusual engine design, and I do not think this web site had been created yet....so I was on my own. It was stuck tight and had spent many years resting in a tree line. Without the proper books, but having the basic mechanical automotive type skills, I figured it out and have enjoyed that tractor for many years. As a couple others have said, the engine of the U is more conventional in design, and maybe there were more U's sold so there may be a bit better parts availability. The engine of the Z has an unusual huge ball bearing as the front main on the crankshaft. That bearing is a bit pricey, but I did not need to replace mine.

As to your decision of which model to consider for your next project, I think a couple of considerations are in order. Do you have any weight constraints on the future tractor...like how much will your trailer comfortably carry. Are you pulling with a 3/4 or 1 ton truck? You want to end up with something that fits the equipment you already have (or plan to get). Next, do you want a tractor with a hand clutch or a foot clutch? The ZB and the UB both have a higher operator platform and foot clutches, the Z and U have the lower operator platform and hand clutches. I have a definite preference for the foot clutch, but that is just me. The Z series is close to the Farmall H, while the U is close to the Farmall M. If storage space is limited (and who's isn't??), then you might want to chose the narrow front end so it doesn't take up as much space in the shed.

Good luck in making your choice,

Paul in MN

 

[Hotflashjr]

I really kinda of like the Z's a bit better than the U's as far as looks go. Plus, the lower weight is what I would need. At this time I do not have a large truck or trailer to move a very heavy machine.

Does either model have 3 pt. or pto? The machine would probably not get used right away, but I am hoping to get some hay acreage within the next two years from a family member who will be retiring. Thanks again!

 

[Paul in MN]

Ok...the future is coming into a bit clearer focus. Both the Z and U (most models) had PTO, neither had a factory 3 pt hitch. The ZB (and UB) had an option for a semi-live PTO. It is controlled by a left hand clutch lever which slows or stops the tractor's forward motion and allows the PTO to continue turning at the engine determined speed. The foot clutch will stop the PTO and the tractor motion. I am taking a guess here, but I think this option was more common on the ZB than the UB. For most hay work, the Z or ZB is the better size tractor, IMHO. It is big enough to run a square baler, a trail behind sickle mower, or a hay rake, and with a 206 cu in engine it is not as thirsty as the U or UB with the 283 cu in engine.

Both the U(B) and Z(B) can be fitted with aftermarket 3 pt hitches. For safety reasons, I would not chose to use the lower operator position of either tractor prior to the B series, as I feel you are too close to the PTO turning shaft. Both B models gave the high operator platform which gets you away from the PTO. The 3 pt conversion is best done with the B models too.

Paul in MN

 

[Freddy]

You could buy a r, and zb and for that matter a ub with a 3 point from factory. I have seen all 3. Athough they are rare.

 

[Hotflashjr]

Well I was thinking this tractor would be used for some hay tetting/raking and pulling wagons. Possibly to run a baler or mower, but not sure at this time. I wouldn't have more than 10 acres of hay to do twice a year if it did end up running the baler or mower. I have a sickle bar for my little JD LA, but I think I would be looking at getting some a bit newer. Thanks again all.

 

[Mopower]

Good advice on here regarding a U and Z. If you want just fun and not heavy tractors with power, an old model R is hard to beat. they weight a tad less than a Z and have a 165 cubic inch engine. Still good luging power! As simple as a Z but shorter lighter.

My preference would be a Jet Star or 335, but I like the big power of the new style 165/206/220 engines.