Block Heater for Farmall Gas 340

Bookman

Member
With the zero and below zero weather we are now having in Nebraska, I am thinking of installing a block heater on my Farmall gas 340. What do folks recommend and how hard are they to install? I do have a loader on it, which might be in the way of some installations. I have been using a magnet heater, but it seems not all that effective. Thanks in advance.
 
the circulating 1500 watt in line heater works the best. i just replaced mine 2 days ago on 560 , as the old one burnt out. them magnetic heaters are only 200 watts and ok to stick under the oil pan. there is also in line heaters u can install in the lower rad hose. i didnt go that way as it was simple to just r+ r my heater.
 
the circulating 1500 watt in line heater works the best. i just replaced mine 2 days ago on 560 , as the old one burnt out. them magnetic heaters are only 200 watts and ok to stick under the oil pan. there is also in line heaters u can install in the lower rad hose. i didnt go that way as it was simple to just r+ r my heater.
Are they hard to install? A minus 1 degrees here now at almost 2 p.m. in the afternoon.
 
Not hard to install, following the directions, and dealing with some heater hose fittings and adapting to what you have. I would not attempt doing it outside or below 35 degrees. it would be dangerous at o degrees, and miserable below freezing. Jim
 
Not familiar with the 340 engine. Looking at parts diagrams you may have a problem with installing the tank heater due to no 2nd port to return coolant to the engine. The heater will draw out of the engine block drain. I believe your only choice for a place for coolant to enter back in the engine would be to remove the temperature gauge fitting and install a tee there. I would point the temp probe down and tee the heater in from the side of the tee. Otherwise if there is an upward sloping straight area in the bottom hose I would suggest the type that just go in the radiator hose like a splice. To repeat that type needs a continual upward slope into the water pump to work well.
 
Are they hard to install? A minus 1 degrees here now at almost 2 p.m. in the afternoon.
i replaced mine in pretty cold temperature as i needed the tractor used a tiger torch to warm up the hoses and clamps then quickly switched it over with the new one. as you see its tied into the oil cooler line with a T. u could could go with the one for the lower rad hose on your tractor , be a lot simplier. just cut the lower rad hose in half and stick it in and done.
 

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Not familiar with the 340 engine. Looking at parts diagrams you may have a problem with installing the tank heater due to no 2nd port to return coolant to the engine. The heater will draw out of the engine block drain. I believe your only choice for a place for coolant to enter back in the engine would be to remove the temperature gauge fitting and install a tee there. I would point the temp probe down and tee the heater in from the side of the tee. Otherwise if there is an upward sloping straight area in the bottom hose I would suggest the type that just go in the radiator hose like a splice. To repeat that type needs a continual upward slope into the water pump to work well.
Thanks very much. My quick glance suggests it is kind of crowded in by the radiator any way. Not going to install anything until it warms up.
 
Not hard to install, following the directions, and dealing with some heater hose fittings and adapting to what you have. I would not attempt doing it outside or below 35 degrees. it would be dangerous at o degrees, and miserable below freezing. Jim
Yep, Not doing anything until the weather warms up. Thanks much.
 
i replaced mine in pretty cold temperature as i needed the tractor used a tiger torch to warm up the hoses and clamps then quickly switched it over with the new one. as you see its tied into the oil cooler line with a T. u could could go with the one for the lower rad hose on your tractor , be a lot simplier. just cut the lower rad hose in half and stick it in and done.
Thanks much. Fortunately, I do not need to do it until weather warms up.
 
Not familiar with the 340 engine. Looking at parts diagrams you may have a problem with installing the tank heater due to no 2nd port to return coolant to the engine. The heater will draw out of the engine block drain. I believe your only choice for a place for coolant to enter back in the engine would be to remove the temperature gauge fitting and install a tee there. I would point the temp probe down and tee the heater in from the side of the tee. Otherwise if there is an upward sloping straight area in the bottom hose I would suggest the type that just go in the radiator hose like a splice. To repeat that type needs a continual upward slope into the water pump to work well.
Maybe I should try an engine block heater installed in a frost plug. Not going to do it for awhile until weather warms up. Never done it before so not sure where frost plug(s) are and how to get them out. I assume coolant has to be drained from the tractor. Then, I assume the hole has to be threated for whatever side the threads on the heat element inserted. What more do I need to know?
 
Maybe I should try an engine block heater installed in a frost plug. Not going to do it for awhile until weather warms up. Never done it before so not sure where frost plug(s) are and how to get them out. I assume coolant has to be drained from the tractor. Then, I assume the hole has to be threated for whatever side the threads on the heat element inserted. What more do I need to know?
I am not sure if your engine has any “frost” or expansion plugs. I do not see them listed on the parts diagram. They would be on the carb side.
 
I believe the only expansion plugs are on the rear face of the block. One is into the water jacket and the other behind the camshaft. You would have to remove the flywheel to even see them. This is based on the C-113/C-123 engines. I know of no reason a C-135 would be different.
 
Maybe I should try an engine block heater installed in a frost plug. Not going to do it for awhile until weather warms up. Never done it before so not sure where frost plug(s) are and how to get them out. I assume coolant has to be drained from the tractor. Then, I assume the hole has to be threated for whatever side the threads on the heat element inserted. What more do I need to know?
If there are any frost/expansion/core plugs, they will be on the side of the engine block. They are a drive-in fit. To remove you would pound a flat-headed screwdriver through the plug and pry it out.

Block heaters insert into the hole in the block and seal with an O-ring. No threading required. They work kind of like a toggle bolt with an expanding device inside the block that holds the heater in. If you're quick enough you don't have to drain the coolant. I've helped Dad change a few over the years. You can also attach your shop vac to the radiator fill neck and turn it on to hold the coolant in the tractor. And NO, it won't "suck the coolant out" unless you're dumb and stick the nozzle right down into the coolant. This is like putting the tip of your finger over a straw so when you lift it out of your drink, the liquid stays in the straw.
 
I believe the only expansion plugs are on the rear face of the block. One is into the water jacket and the other behind the camshaft. You would have to remove the flywheel to even see them. This is based on the C-113/C-123 engines. I know of no reason a C-135 would be different.
Jim, Thanks. I was afraid of that. I could not see any with just a cursory visual inspection of the block, and when I looked at the parts manual, it just showed what you indicated. I will go back to considering a heater attached somehow via the radiator hose. Right now it is too cold to do anything about the cold. It was -10 here at 8 a.m. and now 2 degrees at little after noon. Tomorrow it is suppose to warm up to a balmy 22 degrees. I have not even tried to start the tractor, but I probably will try tomorrow. Thanks
 
I am not sure if your engine has any “frost” or expansion plugs. I do not see them listed on the parts diagram. They would be on the carb side.
You are correct, and Jim Becker confirmed it. I did not see any with my cursory inspection of the engine block. When I looked at my parts book, it confirmed what Jim and you wrote. I will go back to looking at connecting something through a coolant hose---when the weather warms up. Our current weather is just invigorating weather by Minnesota standards (I lived in Minnesota a couple of years), but &^&*% cold by Nebraska standards---setting records for lows and low highs. It was -10 at 8 am. today. The wind in Nebraska is what makes the cold weather so brutal. Thanks much.
 
If there are any frost/expansion/core plugs, they will be on the side of the engine block. They are a drive-in fit. To remove you would pound a flat-headed screwdriver through the plug and pry it out.

Block heaters insert into the hole in the block and seal with an O-ring. No threading required. They work kind of like a toggle bolt with an expanding device inside the block that holds the heater in. If you're quick enough you don't have to drain the coolant. I've helped Dad change a few over the years. You can also attach your shop vac to the radiator fill neck and turn it on to hold the coolant in the tractor. And NO, it won't "suck the coolant out" unless you're dumb and stick the nozzle right down into the coolant. This is like putting the tip of your finger over a straw so when you lift it out of your drink, the liquid stays in the straw.
Thanks for the great explanation. Turns out the frost plugs are not where I can use them for a block heater. Thanks again.
 
you could post a pic of you engine both sides. i do know that the diesel model has the frost plugs on the right side the as the bigger brother models. i cannot remember if the gas model had them . but i still say to mount the circulating heaterr in the lower rad hose is the better deal as it actually circulates the coolant. them block heaters just only heat the colant sitting there and takes convection to make it rise and takes way longer to heat a block. the name of them heater is tempco., such as at napa or other jobber store.
 
you could post a pic of you engine both sides. i do know that the diesel model has the frost plugs on the right side the as the bigger brother models. i cannot remember if the gas model had them . but i still say to mount the circulating heaterr in the lower rad hose is the better deal as it actually circulates the coolant. them block heaters just only heat the colant sitting there and takes convection to make it rise and takes way longer to heat a block. the name of them heater is tempco., such as at napa or other jobber store.
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C-153 blocks.

Welch plug holes are apparently 42mm, based on 22263R1/41-1626 being the replacement plugs listed in the Pars Catalog.
 
With the zero and below zero weather we are now having in Nebraska, I am thinking of installing a block heater on my Farmall gas 340. What do folks recommend and how hard are they to install? I do have a loader on it, which might be in the way of some installations. I have been using a magnet heater, but it seems not all that effective. Thanks in advance.
The waterpump may have a fitting hole with a plug. The YT store sells a pump (Item #: 107892) that has the openings for a barbed fitting to be able to be used for the tank type heater. Jim
 
you could post a pic of you engine both sides. i do know that the diesel model has the frost plugs on the right side the as the bigger brother models. i cannot remember if the gas model had them . but i still say to mount the circulating heaterr in the lower rad hose is the better deal as it actually circulates the coolant. them block heaters just only heat the colant sitting there and takes convection to make it rise and takes way longer to heat a block. the name of them heater is tempco., such as at napa or other jobber store.
Thanks very much
 

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