Bringing Cub back to life

dhermesc

Well-known Member
I picked up a little Farmall cub - appears to be a 1951 model. It has been parked for years as the owners had used it until they bought a Zero turn. Three immediate issues to address before I start on anything else (the engine is not froze and appears to have good compression).

The transmission will slide over the 1/R but will not go into either gear (trying this with the engine off). It will easily slide into 2nd or 3rd - what is a good starting point on this?

The clutch appears to be froze against the fly wheel - how do you break that free? Wait until its running and pull it around in 3rd gear while holding the clutch down? Surprising - the brakes appear to work as they should.

Also - a source for a reasonably priced 6 volt battery?
 
8 bolts and the shifter/transmission cover comes right off. You can then see what is going on. Probably rust especially considering the clutch is stuck. There's likely rust all over.

Just like a stuck engine you get the clutch unstuck however you can. There's no one sure fire method. It might pop loose if you start the tractor with it in gear, but for sure it will never start in 3rd.

Finally, no. There is no source for a "reasonably priced" 6 volt battery. They're all expensive. Sorry.
 
The "stuck" clutch could be a damaged/bent/broken throwout bearing or carrier. Take the cover of the handhole on the bottom and start inspecting. Also. watch the bearing for movement when the pedal is moved.

If the clutch is not disengaging, the R/1 gears may simply not be lined up to shift into gear. Try rocking the tractor (or turning the engine a bit with the crank) and see it if will go into those gears.

Be sure to prime the oil pump before you try starting it.
 
I watched a video on taking the shifter off and inspecting the shift rails and making sure everything is lined up. I am betting I have some rusty rails. Is there a gasket to put on the shifter base or does everyone use gasket maker?
 
used 50:1 two cycle on engines the set over winter to start. Give upper end some lube to valve train.
something like seafoam in crank oil to free up rings , what i was think for you to consider.
 
Pulled the shifter off. Did NOT see any rust on the sliding rails. Used a hammer and punch and TAPPED the offending slide one direction - then the other. Set the shifter back on it with two bolts and it appears to be working through the gears now. Question - I know nothing about the internal workings of a transmission. Is there anything down low I could have broke by doing this (little late to ask - I know). Plan on draining and refilling with 90W. I attempted to rock the tractor in case it was only the gears not lining up.

Plan on pulling the plugs and letting it sit with ATF soaking the cylinders. Not froze but I do anticipate some froze rings. Fuel tank is fair - but has no sediment bowl - just a pipe fitting with a rubber fuel line.
 
Pulled the shifter off. Did NOT see any rust on the sliding rails. Used a hammer and punch and TAPPED the offending slide one direction - then the other. Set the shifter back on it with two bolts and it appears to be working through the gears now. Question - I know nothing about the internal workings of a transmission. Is there anything down low I could have broke by doing this (little late to ask - I know). Plan on draining and refilling with 90W. I attempted to rock the tractor in case it was only the gears not lining up.

Plan on pulling the plugs and letting it sit with ATF soaking the cylinders. Not froze but I do anticipate some froze rings. Fuel tank is fair - but has no sediment bowl - just a pipe fitting with a rubber fuel line.
If your "tapping" was modest, it is unlikely that anything got bent or broken. Clean shifting now, with a good neutral is the clue of success. Jim
 
Drained the transmission fluid - about a gallon of nice clean water - then about a quart of awful looking oil. Poured a gallon on diesel fuel through it - just washing through the transmission the diesel fuel looked horrible coming out. How often are the final drives full of water instead of oil?

Pulled the dipstick out - what joke - I'll try to post that picture. They started with a short dipstick, drilled a hole in the end and attached another dipstick to the end, then extended the dipstick tube with a rubber hose. I believe the polically correct term is "Farmerized" - but why would they ever do this?
 

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