Case 930 Wants To Start, But Won't?

[Valdfur]

Well booster cables are pretty easy to run. Always hook the ground up last and remove it first.

Thanks! I think I'll take the starter off to test it, seems much safer

 

[Hdonly]

Sounds like dirty or corroded connections. Start at the battery posts and clamps and move out from there. Check and clean all connections as you go.

 

[Valdfur]

Sounds like dirty or corroded connections. Start at the battery posts and clamps and move out from there. Check and clean all connections as you go.

I've already tried cleaning connections, didn't really do much unfortunately, I'll see what I can do though

 

[olgentdc]

Well Guys ,,, Just in Case You wanted to know ,,,. Gilligan , Gomer Pyle , Coaches' Dauber and Luther, Andys' Barney , Jerry Lewis and Dean Martin , Whos on 1st routine with Laurel and Hardy, And now this post ,, All Examples of , Exasperation defined

 

[Valdfur]

Yep lol

Well Guys ,,, Just in Case You wanted to know ,,,. Gilligan , Gomer Pyle , Coaches' Dauber and Luther, Andys' Barney , Jerry Lewis and Dean Martin , Whos on 1st routine with Laurel and Hardy, And now this post ,, All Examples of , Exasperation defined

 

[INCase]

Ah alright, thanks lol

MAKE SURE IT IS IN NEUTRAL BEFORE YOU jump the wires on the starter.

 

[Valdfur]

MAKE SURE IT IS IN NEUTRAL BEFORE YOU jump the wires on the starter.

Don't worry, if I do jump the starter, it's coming off the tractor. Don't want anything to fail and crush me

 

[INCase]

Lots of comments.

if it has sat a while who knows. simple things. take battery cables OFF and use a file and or sand paper and make sure the ends that connect to the starter and the ground are shiny clean AS well as the starter post and the place on the frame that the ground/negative cable attaches to. I would also take the starter off the tractor and use sandpaper on both the starter and bell houseing mating surfaces to make sure they are clean and shiny. if you're not getting power on both the Pos and Neg sides you'll have issues.. after that, then start diagnosing your problems.

After that.... what some are suggesting is you take a small jumper wire and put it across the main battery post on the starter to the starter solenoid (small wire) and it should activate the starter. MAKE SURE IT IS IN NEUTRAL before you do that. (I have a good friend that ran over himself doing that and he recovered but it took a few YEARs to heal up.) >>if it doesn't start then you may have a bad solenoid (not too much $ to replace) or there could be issues in the windings that will cause them to not start well or maybe bad brushes as well or bad/broken wires to the brushes... the guts of those are fairly common among different brands of tractors so parts should be easy to get other than the windings.

 

[Valdfur]

Lots of comments.

if it has sat a while who knows. simple things. take batter cables OFF and use a file and or sand paper and make sure the ends that connect to the starter and the ground are shiny clean AS well as the starter post and the place on the frame that the ground/negative cable attaches to. I would also take the starter off the tractor and use sandpaper on both the starter and bell houseing mating surfaces to make sure they are clean and shiny. if you're not getting power on both the Pos and Neg sides you'll have issues.. after that, then start diagnosing your problems.

After that.... what some are suggesting is you take a small jumper wire and put it across the main battery post on the starter to the starter solenoid (small wire) and it should activate the starter. MAKE SURE IT IS IN NEUTRAL before you do that. (I have a good friend that ran over himself doing that and he recovered but it took a few YEARs to heal up.) >>if it doesn't start then you may have a bad solenoid (not too much $ to replace) or there could be issues in the windings that will cause them to not start well or maybe bad brushes as well or bad/broken wires to the brushes... the guts of those are fairly common among different brands of tractors so parts should be easy to get other than the windings.

This is the best advice I've had on this forum, thanks so much. I'll give all this a shot whenever I have some time!

 

[55 50 Ron]

I'm terrible with electrical and great with mechanical, still this is pretty much my first true project (should've bought a gasser), just need to learn the electrical side of these machines.

Shouldn't be much trouble to find a buyer for the diesel if you really want to sell it and buy a gasser. Where are you located?

 

[Valdfur]

Shouldn't be much trouble to find a buyer for the diesel if you really want to sell it and buy a gasser. Where are you located?

I wanted the diesel, it's a bit more complicated but in my opinion, better than the gasser. Also promised that I wouldn't sell it

 

[super99]

I've already tried cleaning connections, didn't really do much unfortunately, I'll see what I can do though

Tighten them up, don't just put the clamp on the battery post

 

[Valdfur]

Tighten them up, don't just put the clamp on the battery post

Ah alright, haven't been doing that every time. I'll give it a shot, thanks

 

[Mnethercutt]

Not a Case guy, but thought I might give my .02 cents since I haven't seen anyone suggest this yet (unless I can't read and missed it)

Have you tried connecting a volt meter to the battery while attempting cranking to monitor the voltage? Your description of the problem, particularly that you lose all electrical power for several minutes after attempting to crank, makes me wonder if you're looking at a bad battery.

Detailed Instructions:

1. Firmly clamp down the battery cables onto the battery
2. Attach a volt meter, set to DC voltage, to the battery terminals
3. Check the voltage of the battery. This is your 'baseline'. If voltage is below 12.5V DC, your battery is low and should be recharged before continuing to step 4.
4. With the volt meter still connected to the battery and turned on, turn the key to the ON or ACCESSORY position. For best results, ensure that any power-heavy accessories are turned off. Monitor the battery voltage for 5 minutes. If the battery voltage drops rapidly and falls below 12.3V DC within the 5 minutes, your battery is likely bad. You can attempt to service the water in the battery but that's a different set of instructions. If voltage remains stable, proceed to step 5.
5. With the volt meter still connected to the battery and turned on, turn the key to the START position. Monitor battery voltage while the key is held in the start position. If the tractor fails to spin over, DO NOT hold the key in the start position for more than 5 seconds.
   1. If battery voltage drops below 12V with key held in start position, the battery is bad. Replace battery.
   2. If battery voltage does not change, the battery is NOT the problem and it is either with cables, connections, or another electrical component, possibly the starter, possibly not.

Again, I'm not a Case guy so I don't know the specifics of the wiring on this tractor, but this is a general test that will work with any piece of equipment to help identify if you have a bad battery. This should also tell you if its a connection problem; if the battery is bad and voltage drops, then you've got good connections its just your battery is shot!

Hope that helps.

 

[Valdfur]

Not a Case guy, but thought I might give my .02 cents since I haven't seen anyone suggest this yet (unless I can't read and missed it)

Have you tried connecting a volt meter to the battery while attempting cranking to monitor the voltage? Your description of the problem, particularly that you lose all electrical power for several minutes after attempting to crank, makes me wonder if you're looking at a bad battery.

Detailed Instructions:

1. Firmly clamp down the battery cables onto the battery
2. Attach a volt meter, set to DC voltage, to the battery terminals
3. Check the voltage of the battery. This is your 'baseline'. If voltage is below 12.5V DC, your battery is low and should be recharged before continuing to step 4.
4. With the volt meter still connected to the battery and turned on, turn the key to the ON or ACCESSORY position. For best results, ensure that any power-heavy accessories are turned off. Monitor the battery voltage for 5 minutes. If the battery voltage drops rapidly and falls below 12.3V DC within the 5 minutes, your battery is likely bad. You can attempt to service the water in the battery but that's a different set of instructions. If voltage remains stable, proceed to step 5.
5. With the volt meter still connected to the battery and turned on, turn the key to the START position. Monitor battery voltage while the key is held in the start position. If the tractor fails to spin over, DO NOT hold the key in the start position for more than 5 seconds.
   1. If battery voltage drops below 12V with key held in start position, the battery is bad. Replace battery.
   2. If battery voltage does not change, the battery is NOT the problem and it is either with cables, connections, or another electrical component, possibly the starter, possibly not.

Again, I'm not a Case guy so I don't know the specifics of the wiring on this tractor, but this is a general test that will work with any piece of equipment to help identify if you have a bad battery. This should also tell you if its a connection problem; if the battery is bad and voltage drops, then you've got good connections its just your battery is shot!

Hope that helps.

That's awesome, thanks! I did have 12.3 volts last time I attempted to crank the tractor, however it's a brand new battery. Still a good idea to test it, I'll test my connections as well!

 

[rustred]

That's awesome, thanks! I did have 12.3 volts last time I attempted to crank the tractor, however it's a brand new battery. Still a good idea to test it, I'll test my connections as well!

volts mean nothing. to test a battery u need to put it on a load test.

 

[Mnethercutt]

volts mean nothing. to test a battery u need to put it on a load test.

A load test is a for-sure answer, but I'm assuming he doesn't have a load tester. IF its a bad battery then it must be really bad for it to not only click at the starter but also kill all power, which WOULD be visible using a volt meter. I've used this test personally before on several different batteries before I got a load tester and its a good way for an at-home mechanic to do very basic troubleshooting without a specialty tool. I know load testers aren't expensive, but most home mechanics don't have one.

 

[Valdfur]

A load test is a for-sure answer, but I'm assuming he doesn't have a load tester. IF its a bad battery then it must be really bad for it to not only click at the starter but also kill all power, which WOULD be visible using a volt meter. I've used this test personally before on several different batteries before I got a load tester and its a good way for an at-home mechanic to do very basic troubleshooting without a specialty tool. I know load testers aren't expensive, but most home mechanics don't have one.

Yeah, definitely don't have a load tester unfortunately, I think I'd be best off testing my cables first, then the battery if the issues continue

 

[rustred]

you are not following one bit of advise here, other than the thumbs up.

 

[55 50 Ron]

Not a Case guy, but thought I might give my .02 cents since I haven't seen anyone suggest this yet (unless I can't read and missed it)

Have you tried connecting a volt meter to the battery while attempting cranking to monitor the voltage? Your description of the problem, particularly that you lose all electrical power for several minutes after attempting to crank, makes me wonder if you're looking at a bad battery.

Detailed Instructions:

1. Firmly clamp down the battery cables onto the battery
2. Attach a volt meter, set to DC voltage, to the battery terminals
3. Check the voltage of the battery. This is your 'baseline'. If voltage is below 12.5V DC, your battery is low and should be recharged before continuing to step 4.
4. With the volt meter still connected to the battery and turned on, turn the key to the ON or ACCESSORY position. For best results, ensure that any power-heavy accessories are turned off. Monitor the battery voltage for 5 minutes. If the battery voltage drops rapidly and falls below 12.3V DC within the 5 minutes, your battery is likely bad. You can attempt to service the water in the battery but that's a different set of instructions. If voltage remains stable, proceed to step 5.
5. With the volt meter still connected to the battery and turned on, turn the key to the START position. Monitor battery voltage while the key is held in the start position. If the tractor fails to spin over, DO NOT hold the key in the start position for more than 5 seconds.
   1. If battery voltage drops below 12V with key held in start position, the battery is bad. Replace battery.
   2. If battery voltage does not change, the battery is NOT the problem and it is either with cables, connections, or another electrical component, possibly the starter, possibly not.

Again, I'm not a Case guy so I don't know the specifics of the wiring on this tractor, but this is a general test that will work with any piece of equipment to help identify if you have a bad battery. This should also tell you if its a connection problem; if the battery is bad and voltage drops, then you've got good connections its just your battery is shot!

Hope that helps.

I'd be careful with the phrase "the battery is NOT the problem" The voltmeter can still read battery voltage (in the situation you're describing) if there is a bad cable or the starter is bad since in those cases, there is little to no current flow to lower the voltage.

As rustred said the actual load test instrument is still the way to go to define the battery.