Cleaning starter switch TO-30

pomester

Member
I am servicing a TO-30 I acquired earlier this year. A pretty much 'never been screwed up' original. It's 6v and hard starting. I've been thru the electrical system cleaning terminals and cables/wires. I've seen reference to cleaning the contacts in the heavy starter switch, so I pulled it out. It looks to be held together with bent tabs. Unbend them to get to the contacts? I hesitate, a nice Delco 'made in USA' switch that is functioning (but like I say, tractor is hard starting). Anybody done this? Any tips?

Thanks, David
switch - 1.jpeg
switch - 2.jpeg
 
I would remove battery + cable from battery. Bolt 2 battery cables together tightly. Remove coil wire on either end tho should not be necessary. Reinstall battery cable and see how it cranks compared to before. If it cranks same as before I wold have the starter looked at by Mom and Pop shop that fixes starters and generators.
 
I would remove battery + cable from battery. Bolt 2 battery cables together tightly. Remove coil wire on either end tho should not be necessary. Reinstall battery cable and see how it cranks compared to before. If it cranks same as before I wold have the starter looked at by Mom and Pop shop that fixes starters and generators.
As part of this service, I had the starter rebuilt by such a shop (actually 'pop and son' shop). They serviced it, but said they didn't find anything particularly wrong (the generator was another story). It cranks about how I would expect a 6v starter to. One of my Fords is still 6v so I do have some reference.

It just doesn't fire. Jump with a 12v and it fires right off. Battery is a 2023 manufacture (came with the tractor) that measures 6.7v at rest. When running there's a strong consistent spark as measured by spark tester. It's like the draw on the system by the starter doesn't allow sufficient current to create spark, Cold weather is worse, I used it last fall and generally had little trouble starting until the temperatures dropped.

Dunno.
 
By hard starting, do you mean hard to get the starter to engage? Slow cranking or what?
Engages fine and cranks about like what I would expect a 6v system to do. With the throttle set at idle it starts better, but often times comes up on compression and barely makes it over. With throttle off idle it'll turn over well, but will not fire.

I need to check timing, my timing light decided it had had enough after 40+ years, I've got a fresh one on its way. I find it frustrating trying to see thru the small hole provided.

I'm going thru the fuel system while waiting, cleaning the tank, valve/settling bowl, and carb. Someone has been thru the carb sometime, the throttle shaft has a bushing installed, everything looks good and tight.
 
As part of this service, I had the starter rebuilt by such a shop (actually 'pop and son' shop). They serviced it, but said they didn't find anything particularly wrong (the generator was another story). It cranks about how I would expect a 6v starter to. One of my Fords is still 6v so I do have some reference.

It just doesn't fire. Jump with a 12v and it fires right off. Battery is a 2023 manufacture (came with the tractor) that measures 6.7v at rest. When running there's a strong consistent spark as measured by spark tester. It's like the draw on the system by the starter doesn't allow sufficient current to create spark, Cold weather is worse, I used it last fall and generally had little trouble starting until the temperatures dropped.

Dunno.
Does coil + go to distributor? It should being it is 6 volt positive from factory and unmolested. I have a Farmall M that is unmolested and still 6 volt positive. Battery is bci group 1 so I physical size smaller than what is called for. To start it I get it to roll over and release starter button. Voltage spike at that point and it starts. Just about like starting with hand crank. You could also use battery from 6 volt Ford and feed only the coil while starting.
 
Does coil + go to distributor? It should being it is 6 volt positive from factory and unmolested. I have a Farmall M that is unmolested and still 6 volt positive. Battery is bci group 1 so I physical size smaller than what is called for. To start it I get it to roll over and release starter button. Voltage spike at that point and it starts. Just about like starting with hand crank. You could also use battery from 6 volt Ford and feed only the coil while starting.
Yes, polarity of the coil is correct.

My thinking right now is to get everything back together and see about the timing. It might be a bit advanced and so firing a bit early on compression.

That and I'll buy 5 gallons of pump gas - I run no-ethanol 90+ on the farm and have noticed it does not volatilize as readily as seasonal auto fuel.
 
Yes, polarity of the coil is correct.

My thinking right now is to get everything back together and see about the timing. It might be a bit advanced and so firing a bit early on compression.

That and I'll buy 5 gallons of pump gas - I run no-ethanol 90+ on the farm and have noticed it does not volatilize as readily as seasonal auto fuel.
You can set the timing by lining up your timing marks and then turn the distributor till points start to open. Verify by cigarette paper between points till it releases. New points are best for this method. Use a test light works also.Less accurate is turn distributor till points spark but works .
 
Yes, polarity of the coil is correct.

My thinking right now is to get everything back together and see about the timing. It might be a bit advanced and so firing a bit early on compression.

That and I'll buy 5 gallons of pump gas - I run no-ethanol 90+ on the farm and have noticed it does not volatilize as readily as seasonal auto fuel.
You can set the timing by lining up your timing marks and then turn the distributor till points start to open. Verify by cigarette paper between points till it releases. New points are best for this method. Use a test light works also.Less accurate is turn distributor till points spark but works .

Yes, static time it. Clean and gap the points. Get engine at 6 (if I remember) degrees BTDC on comp stroke #1.

Can use the rolling paper method but only works well with new/smooth points. Other wise I use an ohm meter on the lead from the coil to the points and ground. Turn the dist until the circuit goes open with ohm meter, or the paper just slips. In place of the ohm meter a 6V test light will work with ign key on, light comes on when points open.

the rolling paper method.

TO-30 timing with r paper.jpg
 
Bonjour
Pour l'cartement des plots distributeur ou allumeur en général c'est -- 0,40 mm --
C'est le réglage pour 1 allumeur LUCAS monté sur moteurTEA20 STANDARD ENGLAND
Bonsoir, le tracteur TO-30 utilise un moteur Continental avec un distributeur Delco et les points sont réglés à 0,022 pouces (ou 'unités de liberté'. (une blague)).

Bienvenue sur le forum, postez une photo de votre machine de temps en temps. Votre moteur a l'air très propre.

David
 
I know what you mean about trying to see the timing marks through that hole. I gave up and just set mine my ear.
 
I am servicing a TO-30 I acquired earlier this year. A pretty much 'never been screwed up' original. It's 6v and hard starting. I've been thru the electrical system cleaning terminals and cables/wires. I've seen reference to cleaning the contacts in the heavy starter switch, so I pulled it out. It looks to be held together with bent tabs. Unbend them to get to the contacts? I hesitate, a nice Delco 'made in USA' switch that is functioning (but like I say, tractor is hard starting). Anybody done this? Any tips?

Thanks, David View attachment 100475View attachment 100476
Well, I am declaring victory. I refreshed the ignition and fuel systems, adjusted the valves, took the lower cover off the bell housing, cleaned up the flywheel so the timing marks were legible, dabbed a bit of paint on 6* btdc, and static timed the engine. The engined fired up readily. I fussed with idle and carburetor adjustment and got the idle down to where there was no centrifugal advance happening and timed the engine with the timing light. I had to add a couple turns of length to the carburetor to governor rod so I could adjust the idle down a bit further, made some fine carb adjustments and adjusted the timing a tiny bit. The engine fires on the first compression stroke, idles low and smooth, and runs at working speed without miss. It'll probably need some main jet adjustment when it gets put to work.

The new fan belt squeaks...

I need to tidy things up and put the hood back on. The tractor came with the original battery hold down - I'll attach a couple of pictures - I'm inclined not to replace it, it's more in the way than useful. I'll have to find a regular bracket, I have a couple around, but will have to search for them. I've got new original style wiring for the lights, the original was fried. 6v lights are better than nothing.
 

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Bonjour David
MERCI pour le message de bienvenu
C'est vrai que chez vous les Ferguson ce sont des TO 20 30 monté avec moteur Continental Z129 ou le TO 35 Z134
J'aime bien les couleurs de vos tracteurs TO !
20231024_215102.jpg
Vous met une photo du TEA20 avant/après + remorque que j'ai transformé pour le transport de bois
Il est encore temps pour vous souhaitez à tous et toutes Vos familles et amis
🥂 BONNE ANNÉE et SANTÉ 2025
Patrice
 

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