Counterbalance for backhoe on MF-202

mrcaldwell

New User
Hi all, new to the forum.

I just picked up a 1955 MF-202 with backhoe attachment. I'm quickly learning this is not a great tool for hilly property. I'm wondering how others have dealt with the weight of the backhoe lifting the front end off the ground to the point of losing steering control and in some cases even doing wheelies. I'm doing quite a bit of work to the hydraulics in general, but while waiting for manuals to identify parts, I'm pondering how to add weight to the front end so I can maneuver my property. Eventually, I can just take the backhoe off, but I need it for a eminent project.

Thanks in advance.
 
Light tractor with a backhoe going up hill is not a great thing. Back up hill when you can. They made a front counterweight to go under the nose of some tractors. Front wheel weights and liquid ballast in the front tires can help. Carry a bucket full of dirt, gravel, etc. in your loader bucket.
 
Hello MrCaldwell, welcome to YT! You liked Jim .ME’s reply but my question is does it have a front end loader? Often back hoe tractors have If not adding weights to the front end is of course the answer. If you get rear wheel weights for a tractor the they will be more economical. They will also require a bracket ne made to mount them and be a bit more cumbersome to handle.
 
Hello MrCaldwell, welcome to YT! You liked Jim .ME’s reply but my question is does it have a front end loader? Often back hoe tractors have If not adding weights to the front end is of course the answer. If you get rear wheel weights for a tractor the they will be more economical. They will also require a bracket ne made to mount them and be a bit more cumbersome to handle.
Yes it has a bucket on the front. I'm going to try to add water to the front tires and come up with some relatively simple weighty thing(s) I can just put in the bucket. At this time, I really don't have a reasonable way to scoop up some dirt or the like. I have some ideas, just need rto percolate a bit.
 
Yes it has a bucket on the front. I'm going to try to add water to the front tires and come up with some relatively simple weighty thing(s) I can just put in the bucket. At this time, I really don't have a reasonable way to scoop up some dirt or the like. I have some ideas, just need rto percolate a bit.
Where are you located? Water is a bad choice if you have freezing weather.
 
Hi all, new to the forum.

I just picked up a 1955 MF-202 with backhoe attachment. I'm quickly learning this is not a great tool for hilly property. I'm wondering how others have dealt with the weight of the backhoe lifting the front end off the ground to the point of losing steering control and in some cases even doing wheelies. I'm doing quite a bit of work to the hydraulics in general, but while waiting for manuals to identify parts, I'm pondering how to add weight to the front end so I can maneuver my property. Eventually, I can just take the backhoe off, but I need it for a eminent project.

Thanks in advance.
I would definitely fill the front tires with fluid the How about bolt some wheel weights to the back of the bucket. 400 lbs way up there will make quite a difference. You would loose some of your lifting capacity but maybe thats not a concern. When you take the backhoe off you can take the bucket weights off.
 
I would definitely fill the front tires with fluid the How about bolt some wheel weights to the back of the bucket. 400 lbs way up there will make quite a difference. You would loose some of your lifting capacity but maybe thats not a concern. When you take the backhoe off you can take the bucket weights off.
I was advised to not add weight to the bucket as it could limit it's ability to lift it's full potential. Was this bad advice?
 
when you move fill bucket with dirt . have a 580 case and it to is light in the front i just fill it with sand
 

I was advised to not add weight to the bucket as it could limit it's ability to lift it's full potential. Was this bad advice?
Now your question has me wondering. If you fill the bucket with dirt and try to go up the hills, keeping the bucket just a couple feet off the ground, will it go up without rearing up and off the front wheels? Without seeing your machine or the terrain, you may have the wrong machine for the terrain. In the best case you aren't going you be able to work it to "potential" by the sounds. If it is steep enough you can't drive up the hills without it constantly "doing wheelies" it likely doesn't belong there. If it is steep terrain and you get sideways on it, you risk tipping it over. No disrespect, just trying to realistically look at things, I have to ask how familiar you are with operating machines like this? Operator experience makes a difference as well.
 
Now your question has me wondering. If you fill the bucket with dirt and try to go up the hills, keeping the bucket just a couple feet off the ground, will it go up without rearing up and off the front wheels? Without seeing your machine or the terrain, you may have the wrong machine for the terrain. In the best case you aren't going you be able to work it to "potential" by the sounds. If it is steep enough you can't drive up the hills without it constantly "doing wheelies" it likely doesn't belong there. If it is steep terrain and you get sideways on it, you risk tipping it over. No disrespect, just trying to realistically look at things, I have to ask how familiar you are with operating machines like this? Operator experience makes a difference as well.
I totally hear where you're coming from - I question the pairing of this machine and my property as well. I'm new to tractors and it didn't even cross my mind that my terrain would be such an issue. The really sad thing is I can drive my 2wd car over much of this terrain without any concern. On mild side slopes, it tends to slip around rather than want to topple. I haven't even approached the difficult terrain yet - and now probably won't.

Right now, the tractor is slightly disassembled, working on getting the loader/hoe hydraulics up to snuff, so I really can't exploring immediate solutions. I'm just fishing for ideas to try when it is drivable again before I give up on it.

Thanks
 
I totally hear where you're coming from - I question the pairing of this machine and my property as well. I'm new to tractors and it didn't even cross my mind that my terrain would be such an issue. The really sad thing is I can drive my 2wd car over much of this terrain without any concern. On mild side slopes, it tends to slip around rather than want to topple. I haven't even approached the difficult terrain yet - and now probably won't.

Right now, the tractor is slightly disassembled, working on getting the loader/hoe hydraulics up to snuff, so I really can't exploring immediate solutions. I'm just fishing for ideas to try when it is drivable again before I give up on it.

Thanks
I have to believe there is a large difference in the center of gravity of your car compared to that of the loader hoe. Comparing the feel of the two is apples to oranges, even more so as the loader bucket is lifted or the hoe moved from transport position. A tractor, crawler or excavator can easily go from slipping sideways to toppling onto a side. They start sliding and the lower side wheel or track catches something and stops the slide, then momentum of the higher CG takes over and the machine rotates right on downhill pivoting on the stopped wheel or track. I can't see your conditions and am not saying it can be done. I am just saying a slide can turn fatal. Loading and working on much of a side hill is not the best practice to begin with. In experience and not being familiar with handling a machine adds to the risk. If your gut says I don't think I should do this, Don't do it!
 
Hi all, new to the forum.

I just picked up a 1955 MF-202 with backhoe attachment. I'm quickly learning this is not a great tool for hilly property. I'm wondering how others have dealt with the weight of the backhoe lifting the front end off the ground to the point of losing steering control and in some cases even doing wheelies. I'm doing quite a bit of work to the hydraulics in general, but while waiting for manuals to identify parts, I'm pondering how to add weight to the front end so I can maneuver my property. Eventually, I can just take the backhoe off, but I need it for a eminent project.

Thanks in advance.
What kind of project are you wanting to do on such a steep slope?
 
What kind of project are you wanting to do on such a steep slope?
What I've traversed so far is not a steep slope by my standards - that's what is so frustrating. I do have a "service road" that is on a pretty steep slope - the reason I bought a tractor to begin with - that I don't think I'm going to be able to drive. My primary need for the backhoe is to dig a drainage ditch (which is located on more slope than I'm comfortable with as the tractor stands now). My long term needs will be more about just moving stuff around the property, digging up rocks, etc.

For the record, the more I look at where I have some problems, it's quite possible that part of my issues are with the fact that it seems to have only one wheel drive more than the balance issue. Some have said: "Can't really tell without seeing ...", so here's a few pics. It's hard to capture slope in pictures sometimes.

First the beast herself.
20250202_095846.jpg


Runs great, but has some hydraulic issues (loader boom loses elevation, hoe boom loses elevation and swings slowly at will and power steering is nonexistent. I'm working with a mechanic friend to replace hoses and will probably rebuild/reseal the controllers if I can find the kits.

Here's an example of one project that I expected to be very easy, but couldn't complete. I lost a huge branch off a tree last year and want to clear it out.
20250202_100347.jpg


I figured I could use the tractor to get the branch off the ground so I won't bind my chainsaw when I cut it up. There's enough slope that I don't want the log rolling further down the hill.
Here's an elevation view:

20250202_100215.jpg


It's hard to see the elevation; the little flat spot you can see between the trees on the left is roughly level.

For starters, I did not try to drive down the slope to the left. There is a bit of a trail along the fence line that should be manageable, but for a couple of reasons, I cut a new gate into the fence, roughly center of picture. After digging out some rocks (an effort in itself when the hoe boom swings on it's own!), I made a drivable path through the gate. With some effort, I got the tractor to the log and was able to use the front bucket to lift the log (had to prop it up with lumber because of the sag) and remove about 6 feet of the log. Then I tried to maneuver around the log to use the hoe to lift the end again. Trying to maneuver between the wood and the post, I was not able to even get past the little pile of wood you see. When I get to the point going between the wood and the post, the tractor refused to stay straight - the front end would just swing to the left (right in the picture). I even tried to just go through the wood , but could not the get the nose pointed up the grade. Tried several times but finally had to give up and back her out. I really don't see this area as being too much of a slope for any tractor. I don't figure the balance issue to be most of the problem in this situation (or other similar spots) - I think that only having one rear wheel (right) driving is a big part of the issues here.

The trench I want to dig is along the rear fence line, roughly between the post and the big rock. I think I can get it done once I can reliably maneuver the tractor, but as it is, I won't even consider it.

This may end up being a bit of a flip tractor - gonna fix the hydro, play with counter balance and see if it works better. Otherwise, try to get my money back out of it and find something more suitable for hilly property. Again, I didn't even consider that this would be an issue. I had a very hard time finding anything in my budget; to a novice, this seemed like it should work. I just hope my lesson isn't too expensive ...
 
Do both of the brakes work? Right in your yard where it is flat, apply the right brake hard. Does it load the engine and want to swing to the right? Try the same thing with the left brake and see if it loads the engine and wants to swing left. If it doesn't load the engine and want to swing to the side the brake is applied on you may have deeper issues. If both sides perform the same, lightly riding the brake on the side opposite the direction it drifts towards going uphill, might help balance the side-to-side drive. Report back on what it does.

Looking at the size of the hoe on that tractor and the distance behind the rear wheels it is never going to be a hill climbing machine. Rental of a mini excavator with ROPS protect might be a better choice to dig your ditch.

It is a common practice on those machines that have the rotary swing motor to use chains to hold them from swinging side to side when not digging. Also, some even chains to hold the boom up. If the hoe sags, even when folded up, it is moving weigh off the front.

As for rebuilding your valves about all you can do is replaces O-rings or seals at the ends of the valve spools, to repair external leaks. If the valve bank is leaking between sections, there are some O-rings in the interface of the sections. As far as doing anything to the spools themselves, they are not rebuildable. the same applies to the loader valve.

The loader or hoe "sagging" (dropping, settling) the chances are better that there is internal leakage in the cylinders than valve issues. The cylinders would require rebuilding. Likewise wear in the rotary swing cylinder is the issue and may not be fully cured even if you rebuild it.

On a side note. I would not need to use the loader to cut the limbs off that tree. You cut up from the bottom on the limb if it is holding the trunk up and the kerf opens. You might need to work from the outer ends or mid-way of some of the branches in so the trunk doesn't flip on you, but it can be done safely. Wear your safety gear and go easy, you will learn. Pinching your saw is a learning tool to let you know what is wrong with your approach, it happens to every one of us at times, regardless of what some may claim.

Sorry if this ruined your day.
 
Jim.ME has pretty much nailed it.

My old Work Bull has almost the same hoe setup and I have to chain the booms up to prevent sagging when not using the hoe. I doesn't have a swing motor though, it uses two cylinders to swing, they don't seem to move when travelling.

And yeah, it's pretty light on the front, my bucket is even smaller than yours, I have to be careful when there is nothing in the bucket. I wouldn't really want to use it on anything more than a slight grade without having some serious weight on the front.
 
Report back on what it does.
Once I have it back together, I'll investigate.

Regarding the hoe boom swing, yes it is all over the place when travelling and can be controlled somewhat with chains. But it also slowly drifts when digging - makes it impossible for anything resembling precision.

Pardon my ignorance, but what are "spools"? My assumption would be the fluid distribution body (for lack of a better description)?

Sorry if this ruined your day.
No chance. Any information is useful and appreciated. And you're saving my mechanic a bunch of legwork looking for a rebuild kit that doesn't exist!
 
Once I have it back together, I'll investigate.

Regarding the hoe boom swing, yes it is all over the place when travelling and can be controlled somewhat with chains. But it also slowly drifts when digging - makes it impossible for anything resembling precision.

Pardon my ignorance, but what are "spools"? My assumption would be the fluid distribution body (for lack of a better description)?


No chance. Any information is useful and appreciated. And you're saving my mechanic a bunch of legwork looking for a rebuild kit that doesn't exist!
The valve spools are the rod like pieces inside the valve body that the control levers move to port the hydraulic oil to make the functions (boom, dipper, bucket, swing on the hoe. The boom and bucket on the loader) move.

If you can find and read the info on the tag the model may be there, which can help in finding cylinder packing kits. It looks like a model/serial number tag on the side of the backhoe control stand. There would have been a similar tag somewhere on the loader frame, if you are lucky, it is still there.

Do you have the operator's and service manuals for your tractor? Parts books for the tractor, loader, and backhoe?
 
The valve spools are the rod like pieces inside the valve body that the control levers move to port the hydraulic oil to make the functions (boom, dipper, bucket, swing on the hoe. The boom and bucket on the loader) move.

If you can find and read the info on the tag the model may be there, which can help in finding cylinder packing kits. It looks like a model/serial number tag on the side of the backhoe control stand. There would have been a similar tag somewhere on the loader frame, if you are lucky, it is still there.

Do you have the operator's and service manuals for your tractor? Parts books for the tractor, loader, and backhoe?
Yes, all three tags (tractor, hoe and loader) are still on the tractor. I got a service manual for the the tractor, need on for the backhoe for sure.

Thanks.
 
Yes, all three tags (tractor, hoe and loader) are still on the tractor. I got a service manual for the the tractor, need on for the backhoe for sure.

Thanks.
What are the model numbers for the loader and hoe. I will see if AGCOpubs shows any manuals for them.
 

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