Cub Cadet RZT 50 questions

[JJay48]

I got a Cub Cadet RZT 50 recently.
It does not want to shut off right away when turning the key to stop. I can get it to turn off if I lower the throttle all the way though. Maybe I am not doing something right but I would think no matter what turning the ignition to off would cut all spark. I even replaced the ignition switch, pto switch, reverse safety switches, and main harness as it was butchered up.

The parking brake will not hold the tractor either so I need to figure out how to adjust that.
Model is 17BA5A7P709
2004 model

Thanks

 

[T.R.K.]

I am guessing your ignition switch is the correct replacement, and not a 'look alike' that you picked up somewhere. I recall working on one a few years back with lots of electrical issues, and funny thing: I put the factory correct ignition switch in and all the other problems just went away.
It sounds like your ignition switch is not grounding the kill wire from the ignition coil. I am thinking MTD/Cub Cadet printed their electrical schematics in the operator manual. You should be able to find a copy of it online somewhere.

The parking brake usually engages either a notched wheel on the outside of the transmission cases or moves a lever to engage notches on the wheel rotor inside the case. I have seen both wear out. If external, it usually just wears out the pawls. If internal, you usually have to replace the pawl and the rotor assembly.

 

[JJay48]

Thanks. I ordered the new parking brake parts that were worn out after closer inspection . You might be right about the ignition switch but the one I replaced did it as well. I checked the wires on the engine and they look good. Ill see about testing the switch.

 

[Mule Meat]

If it has the Briggs & Stratton 407577 engine.

Check the fuel shutoff solenoid on the bottom of the carb bowl. You should hear it click when you turn the key on and off.

 

[JJay48]

If it has the Briggs & Stratton 407577 engine.

Check the fuel shutoff solenoid on the bottom of the carb bowl. You should hear it click when you turn the key on and off.

It is the 407577. I will look into it.
I feel like it could be a coil as well but will check both. Can you get just the solenoid?

 

[JJay48]

The solenoid seems to be working. It runs rough when you turn the ignition to off like its running on 1 cylinder possibly.
I think this is my issue but I need to test it still.

V-Twin Briggs Won't Shut Off - Kill wire diode replacement.

This Briggs and Stratton V twin doesn't die when you turn the key off. It sputters for a moment before the engine quits. This is caused by only one coil bei...

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[JJay48]

I tested and the kill wire is my issue. I need to pick up some diodes and redo the wire or just get another harness.

 

[wore out]

I tested and the kill wire is my issue. I need to pick up some diodes and redo the wire or just get another harness.

GREAT "save" figuring that out. When installing the new diodes be sure the (cathode) end nearest the white band goes to each coil.

Dunno why they sometimes fail, it's POSSIBLE someone tried using the wrong ignition switch that feeds power to the coils vs. the correct type that never sends power to the ignition system, only grounds it to "kill" the engine at shutdown.

 

[JJay48]

GREAT "save" figuring that out. When installing the new diodes be sure the (cathode) end nearest the white band goes to each coil.

Dunno why they sometimes fail, it's POSSIBLE someone tried using the wrong ignition switch that feeds power to the coils vs. the correct type that never sends power to the ignition system, only grounds it to "kill" the engine at shutdown.

Thanks. Its hard to say but the main harness was hacked so its a possibility.