Engine stuck on 63 cub with new pistons and valves

I thought it looked like the small curved part of the piston top was the edge of a cut out was the portion level with the block and the rest of the top was above the block surface. That was the reason I though it looked to me like it would not make much difference which way they would go they would still hit. Now I see the small little ridge in a curved line .And yes that would make all the difference in the world.
 
Thanks Rich's toys! I appreciate the sentiment! I'm good though. Came from a large family with 4 older brothers so a little constructive criticism doesn't bother me. On the balance I've gotten a tremendous amount of helpful advice from these guys. Thanks again and have a great new year! Paul
Yeah, I mean...

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;)
 
I got back to the cub today to see if I could make progress on the leaking head gasket. I figured I would try to run it to see if it would self seal when it got hot.
I checked the oil pan with my scope camera to verify no antifreeze made it's way down there. It was dry so I added oil. I decided that it would be smart to turn the engine over a time or two with the hand crank just to make sure there were no big issues. Well, apparently there an issue some where because the crank moved about an inch then stopped like it hit metal. I gently tried to move it and gently rocked the tractor to see if it was a minor sticking issue. No luck. It's locked tight.
For the record. New pistons, valves, valve guides, keepers, rod bearings as well as filters and plugs. I used assemblers on the valves, bearings and a light coat if oil in the piston cylinder bores. As I was reassembling everything seemed to be moving fine. I didn't want to roll the over until I had it assembled.

As always I appreciate the help! Paul
Good news on the stuck engine. As was suspected after I got the head off, pistons 3 and 4 were in backwards. The step-up pistons were hitting the flat part of the head instead of the recessed side of the head and needed to be to rotated. I removed the pistons, disassembled and replaced the pistons back on the rods turned in the correct direction. After reinstalling the head which was leaking, (See previous thread regarding leaking cub head gasket for the good news on that topic) I turned the hand crank and was relieved that the engine turned over just fine. I reassembled the remaining components added water, oil and gas and after a few minutes of starter cranking and hand cranking I was able to get the engine started! Smoked a lot initially but settled down after a few minutes. Very relieved there was no banging or tapping. It's running smoothly but seemed to need to be slightly choked to run it's best. I'll probably cover that under a separate post.
Thanks so much to all for the help. I'm sure I'll post again as I get the hood etc completely buttoned up.
Paul
I got back to the cub today to see if I could make progress on the leaking head gasket. I figured I would try to run it to see if it would self seal when it got hot.
I checked the oil pan with my scope camera to verify no antifreeze made it's way down there. It was dry so I added oil. I decided that it would be smart to turn the engine over a time or two with the hand crank just to make sure there were no big issues. Well, apparently there an issue some where because the crank moved about an inch then stopped like it hit metal. I gently tried to move it and gently rocked the tractor to see if it was a minor sticking issue. No luck. It's locked tight.
For the record. New pistons, valves, valve guides, keepers, rod bearings as well as filters and plugs. I used assemblers on the valves, bearings and a light coat if oil in the piston cylinder bores. As I was reassembling everything seemed to be moving fine. I didn't want to roll the over until I had it assembled.

As always I appreciate the help! Paul
 

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That some great progress for you! Did happen to take any photos of the valve seats in the block before you installed the valves? I know it is all over but the crying since you have it back together. Those valves really look recessed in there, makes me curious what they looked like.
 

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