Fair price for a 2N fair to good condition

wsmm

Member
I have a Ford 2in in fair to good condition. It has a Wagner front loader and a back blade. Been converted to 12 volt and also has a Zane Thing installed for position control. Used it last year for some small jobs. Do to my health I can no longer use it and would like to sell for a fair price, but have no idea what to ask for.
 
In my area there all kinds of fords on Facebook market place. All kind of prices also. You can always lower your price but a bit hard to increase it. I am thinking about selling a 8n but don't think it will sell for a whole lot. Maybe the price of the new rear tires I put on it for some dumb reason.
 
I have a Ford 2in in fair to good condition. It has a Wagner front loader and a back blade. Been converted to 12 volt and also has a Zane Thing installed for position control. Used it last year for some small jobs. Do to my health I can no longer use it and would like to sell for a fair price, but have no idea what to ask for.
With good tires $800-$1000. If it runs good.
 
Prices vary by areas so the best way to get an idea is look at Craigslist and Facebook Marketplace. This will give you a better idea what they are asking in your area, what they actually sell for is something else.
 
I have a Ford 2in in fair to good condition. It has a Wagner front loader and a back blade. Been converted to 12 volt and also has a Zane Thing installed for position control. Used it last year for some small jobs. Do to my health I can no longer use it and would like to sell for a fair price, but have no idea what to ask for.
If this thing runs, is in good condition, has good tires... a loader and a back blade...

And all you can get is 800-1000 dollars?

I would park it and hold onto it... maybe someone in your family will realize that, if they have a couple acres of land, they could do about everything they need with this tractor... or go spend 20-30k for a new tractor... that doesn't have the parts availability of your 80 year old 2N...


PS... I have a new tractor, and I love it... so much that I will be paying for it for 6 more years... but our old Ford 2N is still the most economical piece of equipment on our farm...and I can get parts for it more easily than the new tractor... It is also the tractor that I have the most peace of mind about. I understand every mechanism on it, and can repair it easily. Meanwhile, I hope that our new tractor runs a couple thousand hours past its warranty, because I need more than one hand to count the "5,000 dollar" mechanisms on it...as in a catastrophic failure of mechanism "x" would be a 5,000 dollar bill

I get that these tractors are old... but it would cost me 1000 dollars for one rear tire of our new tractor... to get a working 2N with loader and backblade for that? I would jump for joy.
 
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My area has plenty of much more capable/desirable models.priced in the $2k-$3k range. Nobody but a collector is going to spend $3K for a 2N when they can get a decent 6xx, 8xx. 2xxx, or 3xxx for that price. I have a non-runner but complete 9N you can have for the taking.

TOH
Funny thing is... we have a 2N... we have a couple of newer tractors from 2008 and 2018 model years.

My personal opinion (just an opinion) is that I generally avoid tractors from about 1960 to 1990 to use on the farm. They had a lot of features that didn't quite have the bugs worked out of them yet... initial implementations of live PTO clutches, torque amplifiers, select-o-speed, buggy hydrostatic trannys. If I was building a pulling tractor, that would be different...tractors from those years were the muscle cars of agriculture...

If a thousand series tractor is worn enough that its price is below its model number.. I'm leaving it where it is.

I had a Ford 3000 that paid 2700 for... it never really ran right

Same thing with a Ford 4000 with a loader that we paid 4000 for...

Both of those tractors are gone. I've kept the 2N for its simplicity... and bought modern tractors for a proper implementation of improved function (better loader hydraulics, reverser, front ends built for loaders, etc).

If I had 2000-2500 dollars to buy a loader tractor... I would buy an N, NAA or even a hundred series, in excellent enough condition to warrant it... before I would buy a 3000 in poor enough condition to warrant it. Or use it as a down payment on a nice, new tractor from a reputable brand with a warranty.

If anybody offered me a thousand for our 2N that runs like a top, without a loader... I would give them directions to the closest beach and tell them what they can do with the sand... lol.

But... just an opinion... and others' mileage may vary.

And... look at that... if push came to shove, even in the worst case scenario with an N... a really, really catastrophic failure... there are people that will give you their old non-runner for parts ;)
 
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Would be three times that here.

Your area must be flooded with them.
These are currently listed for sale with an asking price of $3k or less.

Dan

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Well...

What I take from that is that people are now underpricing these tractors as well. The 3000 and 4000 that I bought eight or ten years back weren't (visably anyway) in as good condition as your pictures and cost more. And the last time I bought a 641 was in 2005, for 3700 dollars...

People dumping these for cheap probably means that they just plain have too much money to care what they get for them, lol.
 
Also... all of those tractors are hundred series, even the 2000 (which is mostly just a re-numbered hundred series)... which I called out in my examples... and the OP was talking about a loader and backblade. To me, there are minimums for just a working loader and back blade. On our new tractor, the loader was an 8K option (yes, a very good, modern loader)... and it actually had a back blade on it at the dealership. We spent 36K for the tractor with loader... my wife was like... "How about throwing in the back blade".... Nope... no can do... another 2K for the back blade. And generally, any back blade on an N has been very gently used.

PS... my wife drove the purchase of the new tractor, after watching me wrestle with trying to keep the 3000 and 4000 running right, while easily keeping our 2N running right... and that same new tractor is now something like 50k just five years later with the same options... so... whew... we bought at the right time.
 
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Well...

What I take from that is that people are now underpricing these tractors as well. The 3000 and 4000 that I bought eight or ten years back weren't (visably anyway) in as good condition as your pictures and cost more. And the last time I bought a 641 was in 2005, for 3700 dollars...

People dumping these for cheap probably means that they just plain have too much money to care what they get for them, lol.
Quit fooling yourself. Those tractors are priced to fair market value.

Nobody wants a $3K 2N when they can by a 6xx, or 8xx for the same money. This is priced at $3200

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Nobody wants a 2N with sxrewed up brakes, Rube Goldberg distributor, 3 speed transmission, dead hydraulics, no PS, and an antiquated jungle gym loader that requires Popeye foearms to steer.

The 4 cylinder 2000 industrial pictured above with step through Kelly loader is listed for $3K. I would have to be insane to pass it over for this 2N listed for $1800.

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Quit fooling yourself. Those tractors are priced to fair market value.

Nobody wants a $3K 2N when they can by a 6xx, or 8xx for the same money. This is priced at $3200

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Nobody wants a 2N with sxrewed up brakes, Rube Goldberg distributor, 3 speed transmission, dead hydraulics, no PS, and an antiquated jungle gym loader that requires Popeye foearms to steer.

The 4 cylinder 2000 industrial pictured above with step through Kelly loader is listed for $3K. I would have to be insane to pass it over for this 2N listed for $1800.

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Well... I would agree in all cases.

Except... I said 2k to 2500... with loader, with backblade, all in good working condition. Your example is a bare 2N, of unknown condition, for 1800. Obviously, if the hydraulics are failed, the loader and backblade are not in working condition.

Also... 0000 series are 55-65 years old, 000 series are 65-70 years old, N series are 70-85 years old

When it comes to having failed hydraulics, failed brakes, ignitions that need work, etc...

It's now more a matter of maintenance and condition vs age/series. My 3000 had power steering... for a few days at a time, until the system leaked enough to need a refill, lol My father had a JD1520, a very nice late '60's utility tractor, with a loader... and power steering... really good power steering so good that you had no idea the front spindles were getting torqued into oblivion.

With these old tractors, when the manual steering gets hard... that's good feedback to say... you've overloaded the front end, lol

That Kelly loader is a beauty, and I agree that's a good value.

I also know that it's way overmatched for that tractor. You could carefully use that loader for many years... or use that loader to ruin a perfectly nice little tractor.
 
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Well... I would agree in all cases.

Except... I said 2k to 2500... with loader, with backblade, all in good working condition. Your example is a bare 2N, of unknown condition, for 1800. Obviously, if the hydraulics are failed, the loader and backblade are not in working condition.

Also... 0000 series are 55-65 years old, 000 series are 65-70 years old, N series are 70-85 years old

When it comes to having failed hydraulics, failed brakes, ignitions that need work, etc...

It's now more a matter of maintenance and condition vs age/series. My 3000 had power steering... for a few days at a time, until the system leaked enough to need a refill, lol My father had a JD1520, a very nice late '60's utility tractor, with a loader... and power steering... really good power steering so good that you had no idea the front spindles were getting torqued into oblivion.

With these old tractors, when the manual steering gets hard... that's good feedback to say... you've overloaded the front end, lol

That Kelly loader is a beauty, and I agree that's a good value.

I also know that it's way overmatched for that tractor. You could carefully use that loader for many years... or use that loader to ruin a perfectly nice little tractor.
Well then that means my 8N is grossly overloaded with just an empty bucket on the loader....which I would agree that it is absolutely overloaded 😅. Put more than about 200lbs in the bucket, and steering becomes virtually impossible.

Having to be an acrobatic circus clown just to get on/off around the Wagner jungle gym is a royal PITA as well. I really don't understand how Wagner, Dearborn, etc sold so many of these things back in the day...

The only reason I've kept this thing is that I can't afford anything better. Thankfully, I finally got my crane working well enough that getting the loader on/off is pretty simple, and since I really only used the loader to lift things like engines around here, I really don't need it anymore.

Though now that I'm looking at a possible full engine rebuild...it may finally be time to find some money and buy anything better....
 
Well then that means my 8N is grossly overloaded with just an empty bucket on the loader....which I would agree that it is absolutely overloaded 😅. Put more than about 200lbs in the bucket, and steering becomes virtually impossible.

Having to be an acrobatic circus clown just to get on/off around the Wagner jungle gym is a royal PITA as well. I really don't understand how Wagner, Dearborn, etc sold so many of these things back in the day...

The only reason I've kept this thing is that I can't afford anything better. Thankfully, I finally got my crane working well enough that getting the loader on/off is pretty simple, and since I really only used the loader to lift things like engines around here, I really don't need it anymore.

Though now that I'm looking at a possible full engine rebuild...it may finally be time to find some money and buy anything better....
actually... I agree... these tractors weren't really designed for payloaders... you could put a loader on them for occasional stuff...

I think where my opinion differs is when it comes to the next generation of tractors. Most think that a tractor, like a 3000 is much better suited to a loader... my opinion is that they are marginally better suited to a loader... the loaders of the 60's were better than the loaders of the 40's... but the front ends of the tractors were essentially the same, other than power steering. These tractors also didn't have the reversers of modern tractors... which meant grinding gears, often on some shifter between your legs... while also trying to work loader levers up near the steering wheel... or some halfhazard setup that ran off of the remotes... which... on a 3000 also means reaching down between your legs... Yes, these loaders often had power tilt, as opposed to the PITA trip buckets... but the cycle times to lift/tilt were abysmal... in some cases you would probably wish you could just pull a trip lever, lol.

As evidence... I point to the number of 60's and 70's vintage tractors that ended up with broken spindles when people went to round bales... get a nice, heavy, bale of baleage on a bale spear and drive it around on soft ground for a while... and you'll find out what your limiting factor is... the loader? the steering? or the tractor?

If you really, really need a loader to use like a payloader... I would roll my dice, skip past go and get a bobcat or modern tractor with MFWD, reverser and modern hydraulics.

If you don't really need a loader all the time, and don't have a lot of money... then I would go with the most economical, reliable version that you can get your hands on... which.. in some cases may be an old N that can lift the occasional motor out of a car or move a couple wheelbarrows full of firewood on hard ground. Or move your little pile of horse manure, if you have one or two horses... while also running a little finish mower to keep your grounds clean.

To me, the reason to move past an N to, say... a 641, 2000, 3000... would have more to do with implements. If you also need your occasional loader tractor to, say... run an old haybine... a baler... maybe a tiller...or maybe a larger bush hog...or a larger finish mower (I HAVE seen people put a six foot finish mower on an old N... and then wonder why it's overheating...they're only 20HP, after all) then the live PTO, ability to have remotes (although in both of my cases with a 641 and 3000... I needed to buy an aftermarket spooler to get remotes, the tractors often didn't come with them standard)... you get some more power...with a 3000 you get 8 speeds... so you could get a nice slow speed for a small tiller, etc...

I also think that the N's are perfect little "complement tractors"... for us, we have modern tractors... one with MFWD and a modern loader... our N does "N stuff" far more economically and repairably than buying some little 20HP Kubota for 25K.. or a 20HP throwaway MTD clone of a lawnmower...
 
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As evidence... I point to the number of 60's and 70's vintage tractors that ended up with broken spindles when people went to round bales... get a nice, heavy, bale of baleage on a bale spear and drive it around on soft ground for a while... and you'll find out what your limiting factor is... the loader? the steering? or the tractor?

So you're saying that overloading your equipment causes problems?
Put a 1500lb round bale on a spear, then go bouncing it down the field, and the leverage is insane. Hang it off something like a 3400 with a 2K rate at the pin, and you're absolutely going to break things...no different than scores of broken front ends on N series due to the weight of a loader hanging off the front of them, just that the N will break far quicker.

Now having some experience with these things...if I were to do it over, I'd skip right over the N loader (and quite frankly, if I were to ever buy another N for whatever crazy reason, I'd also skip right over tractors that already have loaders on them) and put the money towards a gantry and maybe a small trailer. Even the small 3 point platform I made to hold my chem sprayer would be better for that firewood load than the bucket, especially so given the other issues the loader brings.

About the only real useful thing I've found for this is popping small brush trunks and T-posts out of the ground. The whole experience reminds me of the time I bought a receiver hitch mounted hoist for the truck...because it was the "cheap" option, and found it next to useless. Yep...that's why so many of them were for sale "only used once!"

Then the bucket design on these old loaders is atrocious, so it really doesn't even work all that well for loading soft material. The bucket won't curl past parallel with the ground, so I have to run it lifted high to keep what little material it can handle from falling out everywhere which throws stability of the tractor out the window. Then there's the narrow bucket and no down force, which means it's only semi-useful for loading out of piles.

Granted, that Kelly loader likely solves those last issues, but I've only seen a handful of N tractors for sale with the Kelly style, and about 100 with the Wagner/Dearborn jungle gyms, so it's far more likely that the uninitiated are going to wind up with a jungle gym useless loader.
 
So you're saying that overloading your equipment causes problems?
Put a 1500lb round bale on a spear, then go bouncing it down the field, and the leverage is insane. Hang it off something like a 3400 with a 2K rate at the pin, and you're absolutely going to break things...no different than scores of broken front ends on N series due to the weight of a loader hanging off the front of them, just that the N will break far quicker.

Now having some experience with these things...if I were to do it over, I'd skip right over the N loader (and quite frankly, if I were to ever buy another N for whatever crazy reason, I'd also skip right over tractors that already have loaders on them) and put the money towards a gantry and maybe a small trailer. Even the small 3 point platform I made to hold my chem sprayer would be better for that firewood load than the bucket, especially so given the other issues the loader brings.

About the only real useful thing I've found for this is popping small brush trunks and T-posts out of the ground. The whole experience reminds me of the time I bought a receiver hitch mounted hoist for the truck...because it was the "cheap" option, and found it next to useless. Yep...that's why so many of them were for sale "only used once!"

Then the bucket design on these old loaders is atrocious, so it really doesn't even work all that well for loading soft material. The bucket won't curl past parallel with the ground, so I have to run it lifted high to keep what little material it can handle from falling out everywhere which throws stability of the tractor out the window. Then there's the narrow bucket and no down force, which means it's only semi-useful for loading out of piles.

Granted, that Kelly loader likely solves those last issues, but I've only seen a handful of N tractors for sale with the Kelly style, and about 100 with the Wagner/Dearborn jungle gyms, s0 it's far more likely that the uninitiated are going to wind up with a jungle gym useless loader.
All of this misses the original question - what is a faie price for a 2N with (jungle gym) loader.

While its true all of the Ford tractors and loaders discussed here leave much to be desired there is absolutely no doubt that a 2N is hands down the worst of the lot and worth far less than the current $3000 market price of the newer models.

Dan
 
All of this misses the original question - what is a faie price for a 2N with (jungle gym) loader.

While its true all of the Ford tractors and loaders discussed here leave much to be desired there is absolutely no doubt that a 2N is hands down the worst of the lot and worth far less than the current $3000 market price of the newer models.

Dan
If I had to throw a number at buying one... practically zero if there were a bunch of problems that needed fixing... up to around a couple grand if everything worked well... throw a little wiggle room onto that for intangibles and other implements thrown into the deal.

I think my main summary here would be that I have a wider grouping within that "practically zero" category. (and a new hip four years ago... so climbing into a "jungle gym" loader is still possible...)

Let's look at, say... a Ford 2000 with a nicer loader, like that one with the Kelly loader that you pictured... to me, if that model tractor and loader has a bunch of problems... the bottom end overlaps with a 2N at "practically zero"...if I really need a good loader tractor... but, if I was looking for an occasional light duty loader...that 2000 with a Kelly loader... and a backblade... and everything worked fine... the topside would be higher... 3K... maybe even 4K... depending on whether it had a live PTO and maybe a remote on it.

In either case... my price for selling would depend on whether it's proven reliable and useful around the farm... no sense upgrading or selling for cheap if it's doing what I need. The replacement cost for any of these little tractors, with a modern tractor is multiple times the potential selling price... and the mystery problems that could come along with a really old tractor to sorta old tractor upgrade would turn me off to selling a good N for a marginal improvement, or for a thousand dollars... that you could blow on dinner the next evening, it seems. I would rather use it until it's given up the ghost... and give it away for parts or scrap it at that point.
 
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I have a Ford 2in in fair to good condition. It has a Wagner front loader and a back blade. Been converted to 12 volt and also has a Zane Thing installed for position control. Used it last year for some small jobs. Do to my health I can no longer use it and would like to sell for a fair price, but have no idea what to ask for.
Is the Wagner a step through? In New Mexico I think they ask too much, a 2N in decent shape as you described are typically priced for $3-4000 in this area. 600 miles away in Central Texas a 2N as you described tends to be asked $1200-3000. I would look at a lot of them online in your area and pick a happy medium. Does your 2N have the solid cast steel piece that bolts to the engine and houses the axle pin? If so I'd point that out in the ad. Over all people who deal with N's tend to stay away from 8N's if they have a loader.

This July I sold a worn 40 with a step through Wagner 100 for $2400 here in Roswell, NM. He came 3 hours when he got to looking into the solid steel and two piece front ends. I missed the loader before the day was out.
 

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