Farmall 450D Fan Belt

I purchased the high-end belt ($$) from local Case/IH dealer that was listed for the Farmall 450D. Generator belt went on fine (of course lots of time spent manuvering to get it over the fan blades). Next was the larger fan belt. I manged to muscle it over each fan blade but now wondering how to get it onto bottom (engine) pulley. Look at the shaft distance in the photo below (Yellow Arrow). Any tips to get this thick/beast of a new fan belt on? I tried muscling it through the narrow gap but it is impossible. That shaft does not appear to move at all. Am I missing something?
Thanks!
 

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You might try to drop; it off the pump pulley and let it lay on the fan. Put it on the crankshaft pulley and the you can use the fan blades to roll it onto that pulley.
 
I think if the cranking mechanism was completely free it should retract into the front casting completely. It looks like that could give you a 1/4” more room. However, they can stick very tightly. If you know absolutely sure you will not want to have the crank starter operational you could saws-all it flush.
 
You are also going to need to open that top water pump pulley fully open to get that belt on the bottom pulley.
 
If you can get the crank sleeve to move back a little bit more you can get the belt by there. then like said you need to loosen the screw to open the front half of the sheave to let the belt drop down enough to go over the crank pulley then tight the water pump pulley up till it is correct tension. Does not need to be singing tight. I usually just turn the water pump shaft with the fan as I hold the sheave with my fingers till it is tight enough then set the screw back into one of the 4 slots and lock the nut on it.
 
I have a similar problem with my BN's. I twist the belt to get the thin part in the opening it has to go thru. I then use a hammer and a thin block of wood to tap the belt thru the opening. I suspect I loose about a half of the life of the belt but otherwise I would have to remove the front of the tractor to get the belt on.
I did buy a thinner belt for one tractor. It went on easier but I'm not real happy with the way it looks.
Dave
 
If the crank ratchet is free, take the bolts out of the retainer and push it forward. If it will not turn, and you are unwilling to cut any part off the tractor to get it in there, place a jack under the clutch housing and remove the bolts attaching the front bolster to the LH frame rail and loosen the bolts on the other side. Place a small block between the front bolster and front engine support and pry it forward the required amount with a pinch bar.
 
If the crank ratchet is free, take the bolts out of the retainer and push it forward. If it will not turn, and you are unwilling to cut any part off the tractor to get it in there, place a jack under the clutch housing and remove the bolts attaching the front bolster to the LH frame rail and loosen the bolts on the other side. Place a small block between the front bolster and front engine support and pry it forward the required amount with a pinch bar.
It almost looks like that crank sleeve is flared. He might have to cut it, if he wishes to go that route.

Mike
 
I purchased the high-end belt ($$) from local Case/IH dealer that was listed for the Farmall 450D. Generator belt went on fine (of course lots of time spent manuvering to get it over the fan blades). Next was the larger fan belt. I manged to muscle it over each fan blade but now wondering how to get it onto bottom (engine) pulley. Look at the shaft distance in the photo below (Yellow Arrow). Any tips to get this thick/beast of a new fan belt on? I tried muscling it through the narrow gap but it is impossible. That shaft does not appear to move at all. Am I missing something?
Thanks!
Another way is to get a powertwist belt.
 
Sure seems like from the picture you could just twist the belt 90 degrees and shove it through there... Gotta open that pulley up on top first, though. All the way so the belt is down on threads. Otherwise you'll never get the belt over the crankshaft pulley.

The front half of the pulley screws away from the rear half. There's a set screw holding it. Clean the threads up and dribble some penetrating oil on the threads to make it move easier once it is moving.
 
I purchased the high-end belt ($$) from local Case/IH dealer that was listed for the Farmall 450D. Generator belt went on fine (of course lots of time spent manuvering to get it over the fan blades). Next was the larger fan belt. I manged to muscle it over each fan blade but now wondering how to get it onto bottom (engine) pulley. Look at the shaft distance in the photo below (Yellow Arrow). Any tips to get this thick/beast of a new fan belt on? I tried muscling it through the narrow gap but it is impossible. That shaft does not appear to move at all. Am I missing something?
Thanks!
Had three of those tractors at different times. Can tell you the rachet on hand crank assembly will go in flush with casting unless rusted in hole or front shaft sticking out front of bolster is stuck. Looking under bolster if washer next to cotter key in front hand crank shaft has a space between it and casting it's not fully to front.
 
Thank you everyone for the assist here. A week ago I did get both generator and fan belts on. A diesel mechanic I asked to help me assess this tractor a year ago brought over his hand crank. It doesn't mate with the shaft correctly. Somewhere in the history of this tractor the shaft became flared on the end (likley saw a hammer?). I used some of your recommendations on this thread and opted to rule out having the crank starter operational in the future and sawed the tip of the shaft to open up clearance for the fan belt to get through. Seemed like the best option and was able to get tractor off neighbors property since the time of belt breaking. Thanks
 

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Thanks for the report, the crank mechanism is rusted tight in many of those old Farmalls. I suppose you noticed there is a grease zerk down there to lube it, those obviously get overlooked. Which reminds me next time I back around my M I should give it a pump of grease and get the hand crank my uncle keeps around and spin it a bit to make sure it stays operational. If your tractor was a gas engine I would say operating it 3 or 4 minutes from a cold start without the fan and water pump would harm it none. Due to the general fear of head cracking on a diesel model I would probably not stick my neck out with a recommendation like that in your case.
 

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