Farmall m wont move in gear

[DerekC]

I have an earlier model farmall m that i use for pulling a rake and loading hay with. I built a new hay spear setup for it and i pulled it up to the shop to do some welding to make it fit and when i was done i put the tractor in gear to move and it wont. I replaced the clutch about a year ago and hasnt missed a beat. The belly pump and pto still work and it goes into any gear including reverse but it just wont move. It was parked on a decent incline to do the welding but im not sure if that could be a factor.

 

[used red MN]

What’s the temperature where you are? If it is below freezing was it setting in warmer shed prior to this? Water in the rear end has possibly frozen the bull gears is my guess. Have you had any experience with a Farmall shifter that has locked in two gears. Usually the shifter movement and position is off when that happens, so you probably would not report that it shifts into all the gears. When this happens it may act like it is in gear in neutral, but locks when you try to shift into another gear. Also another thing that rarely stops them from moving is a ball bearing falling out of a warn ball bearing like for the inner axle bearing behind the bull gears. The ball gets between the bull gear and case. Usually doesn’t stop the tractor it generally just cracks and pushes the rear cast under the bull gear out and gear oil starts leaking out.
In case it is locked in two gears here it what you need to do.
Directions when Farmall is stuck in 2 gears

Your gear shift just came out of position and didn’t shift it out of the gear you were using just before this problem came to light. Now when you shift into another gear you are in two gears at the same time. Gear ratios have a little problem with that and lock up the drivetrain. If possible move the gearshift so the tractor moves when the clutch is let out, this makes sure two of your shift rails are in neutral. Pull the cotter pin out on the gearshift above the spring, pull the spring and the bell off. Next you will need a metal screw and a drill bit to drill a hole for it. On the sides of the shifter support that raises out of the deck cover are expansion plugs. Drill into the center of the one one the clutch side with the bit. Then hopefully you have a hex head metal screw, with a drill/driver run the screw into the hole and hopefully it will pop the plug out. You could do this all with a regular screwdriver but it is less fun. When that plug is out take a punch and drive the gear shift pivot pin out towards the center of the tractor as the pin comes out this will drive out the plug on the opposite side. When the pin is out pull the gearshift out. Look down in there with a light and move the offending shift rail to its neutral position with a longer bar or large screwdriver. You may have to set on the seat and hold down the clutch to do this if the tractor is not on the level. When in the right position the three separate shift rails should form one continuous channel about 2 1/2” long. I am linking a diagram of what the shift lever bottom tip should look like when not worn. If it is really worn down or rounded of quite a bit it probably needs welded up and ground to the dimensions shown.
Link for gear shift dimensions??

Old YT post with shifter dimensions

 

[BarnyardEngineering]

The only way the welding would have affected it is if you removed the top cover from the transmission, drained all the oil, and welded the gears solid. I think you'd remember doing that.

Now, describe "won't move." Does letting out the clutch kill the tractor or does it continue to run like you've done nothing?

This is where knowing what things normally "feel like" is important. Is there any change in the feel of the shifter, such as it just flops around? Try to ease the tractor into gear with your foot off the clutch (don't try to force it completely into gear, just feel around). Does it grind gears?

If the tractor doesn't die when you let out the clutch in gear, and you can feel it grinding when you try to put it in gear, put it in gear, let out the clutch, and observe the axles. One of them may be turning inside the wheel hub due to the hub being broken.

 

[smokepole]

I have a 44 M and it did that once in the winter, waited for a thaw and loosened drain plug enough to let water drain/drip out until only oil/lube dripped out, no more trouble.

 

[DerekC]

The only way the welding would have affected it is if you removed the top cover from the transmission, drained all the oil, and welded the gears solid. I think you'd remember doing that.

Now, describe "won't move." Does letting out the clutch kill the tractor or does it continue to run like you've done nothing?

This is where knowing what things normally "feel like" is important. Is there any change in the feel of the shifter, such as it just flops around? Try to ease the tractor into gear with your foot off the clutch (don't try to force it completely into gear, just feel around). Does it grind gears?

If the tractor doesn't die when you let out the clutch in gear, and you can feel it grinding when you try to put it in gear, put it in gear, let out the clutch, and observe the axles. One of them may be turning inside the wheel hub due to the hub being broken.

I dont think the welding itself caused this problem it was just what i moved the tractor to do. When i say it wont move you can put the tractor in any gear and let out on the clutch and it doesnt labor the engine or try to move. Transmission feels normal, no flopping. I did not try engaging it without the clutch though. I will give that a try.

 

[DerekC]

What’s the temperature where you are? If it is below freezing was it setting in warmer shed prior to this? Water in the rear end has possibly frozen the bull gears is my guess. Have you had any experience with a Farmall shifter that has locked in two gears. Usually the shifter movement and position is off when that happens, so you probably would not report that it shifts into all the gears. When this happens it may act like it is in gear in neutral, but locks when you try to shift into another gear. Also another thing that rarely stops them from moving is a ball bearing falling out of a warn ball bearing like for the inner axle bearing behind the bull gears. The ball gets between the bull gear and case. Usually doesn’t stop the tractor it generally just cracks and pushes the rear cast under the bull gear out and gear oil starts leaking out.
In case it is locked in two gears here it what you need to do.
Directions when Farmall is stuck in 2 gears

Your gear shift just came out of position and didn’t shift it out of the gear you were using just before this problem came to light. Now when you shift into another gear you are in two gears at the same time. Gear ratios have a little problem with that and lock up the drivetrain. If possible move the gearshift so the tractor moves when the clutch is let out, this makes sure two of your shift rails are in neutral. Pull the cotter pin out on the gearshift above the spring, pull the spring and the bell off. Next you will need a metal screw and a drill bit to drill a hole for it. On the sides of the shifter support that raises out of the deck cover are expansion plugs. Drill into the center of the one one the clutch side with the bit. Then hopefully you have a hex head metal screw, with a drill/driver run the screw into the hole and hopefully it will pop the plug out. You could do this all with a regular screwdriver but it is less fun. When that plug is out take a punch and drive the gear shift pivot pin out towards the center of the tractor as the pin comes out this will drive out the plug on the opposite side. When the pin is out pull the gearshift out. Look down in there with a light and move the offending shift rail to its neutral position with a longer bar or large screwdriver. You may have to set on the seat and hold down the clutch to do this if the tractor is not on the level. When in the right position the three separate shift rails should form one continuous channel about 2 1/2” long. I am linking a diagram of what the shift lever bottom tip should look like when not worn. If it is really worn down or rounded of quite a bit it probably needs welded up and ground to the dimensions shown.
Link for gear shift dimensions??

Old YT post with shifter dimensions

It was cold where im at but I did a bad job of explaining myself when i said it wont move. You can put it in gear and let off the clutch and nothing happens. No laboring or bogging it just acts like its in nuetral but its in gear.

 

[DerekC]

I have a 44 M and it did that once in the winter, waited for a thaw and loosened drain plug enough to let water drain/drip out until only oil/lube dripped out, no more trouble.

I did a bad job of explaining that it wont move. It doesn’t labor or bog when you let off the clutch it just acts like its in nuetral whrn the transmission is in any gear

 

[smokepole]

Oh okay, disregard what I said, don't know what's wrong.

 

[D Slater]

I did a bad job of explaining that it wont move. It doesn’t labor or bog when you let off the clutch it just acts like its in nuetral whrn the transmission is in any gear

If the liftall and PTO work and it won't try to move in 5th gear problem is in main shaft or on back unless shift forks are not moving into gear. When trying to move in gear try putting both brakes on to see if it chokes engine down. If so look on to bull gears or axles and wheel hubs. If differential gears or ring and pinion fail or main shaft breaks it won't load engine with brakes.

 

[Janicholson]

If the liftall and PTO work and it won't try to move in 5th gear problem is in main shaft or on back unless shift forks are not moving into gear. When trying to move in gear try putting both brakes on to see if it chokes engine down. If so look on to bull gears or axles and wheel hubs. If differential gears or ring and pinion fail or main shaft breaks it won't load engine with brakes.

I like your thoughts! If it is on an incline, I would assume the tractor was stopped and the brakes locked to hold the hill, or the shifter was left in reverse or 1st. If your ideas don't work, I thought of two things: If it is heading down hill, front lower than rear, put it in 3rd and release the brakes clutch pedal up engine off. If it rolls the trans is not locked up.
Dead heading the hydraulics with it in gear clutch pedal up would isolate the failure to rearward. Interesting! Jim

 

[used red MN]

Sort of down the same line of thinking a D Slater look to see if the inner axle bolt has come out allowing an axle to slide out of a bull gear. If this has happened applies the brake on that side will cause the opposite wheel to drive.

 

[Dennis K (WA)]

Everything mentioned are possibilities but if the tractor was driven to the location where it now sits, I would lean toward a problem at the gear shift lever. Why would any of the other problems happen while it was parked. Just an opinion. Very curious what you find. Dennis

 

[used red MN]

This is what the reaction would be if the pin fell out of the spider gears of the differential. But this tractor has 4 spiders and a 4 way cross pin, not to likely to fail in this manner.

 

[504]

I would pull the shifter out and see what happens when you shift it with a flat bar. Then go from there

 

[DerekC]

Sort of down the same line of thinking a D Slater look to see if the inner axle bolt has come out allowing an axle to slide out of a bull gear. If this has happened applies the brake on that side will cause the opposite wheel to drive.

I tinkered some more with it and the transmission is turning. When in 5th gear it abnormally loud but still will not move.

 

[DerekC]

I like your thoughts! If it is on an incline, I would assume the tractor was stopped and the brakes locked to hold the hill, or the shifter was left in reverse or 1st. If your ideas don't work, I thought of two things: If it is heading down hill, front lower than rear, put it in 3rd and release the brakes clutch pedal up engine off. If it rolls the trans is not locked up.
Dead heading the hydraulics with it in gear clutch pedal up would isolate the failure to rearward. Interesting! Jim

We backed it off the incline and it coasts and brakes fine. Transmission is confirmed turning in all gears but makes abnormal grumble in 5th gear.

 

[used red MN]

I tinkered some more with it and the transmission is turning. When in 5th gear it abnormally loud but still will not move.

Neither brake changes anything? Pull the PTO and see if you can see the problem. Next would be pull the belt pulley gear head. Then trans cover. Maybe brake covers before that to see if a bull pinion broke. Would think there would be some loud noise and jarring associated with one of those breaking.

 

[MARK ROBKE]

Did anyone 'pop' the clutch when they first tried to move it? You said it was on a grade. Maybe then something broke... Mark.

 

[Brownie450]

Center splines out of the clutch disc?
Might be the bottom of the shifter broken off?
If the bull gear dropped off the axle shaft, there
would be considerable noise/ racket.
Jim