Ford 1620 injection pump issues

[Kent2255]

I just replaced the injection pump on a 1620 due to severe external leakage. We do not have a local pump repair shop so the decision was made to replace instead of repair. Engine started and ran fine but would leave a tractor sized puddle of fuel overnight. Removed and replaced pumps. Used the same shims on the new as what was on the original. Bled out the fuel system and started the engine. My issue is this, if you run at high rpm then pull the throttle back to the idle position the engine will die and then be very hard to start as if it ran out of fuel. I also notice some fluctuation in the rpms when raising them up and down slowly. Sorry for the long post but wanted to give all the info I could

 

[Texasmark]

Couple of questions: Which pump left a tractor sized pudle of fuel overnight. If the new one, you said you removed and replaced the pump.....does that mean that you took the new one off and put the old one back on????

After changing to the new pump, did you bleed the lines to the new pump, bleed the pump, and bleed the lines to the injectors?

 

[Kent2255]

Sorry, that is kinda unclear. The original pump was leaking horribly but ran fine. Installed the new pump and it hunts a little when accelerating or decelerating. If you decelerate too quickly it will die and is hard to start as if it ran out of fuel. I did bleed out the air as you specified.

 

[Fritz Maurer]

You have bent the link between the pump rack and the governor and it is binding. Have to be very careful when lifting the pump to disconnect the link.

 

[Kent2255]

That makes sense. It was a royal pain to get hooked back up. Can it be straightened back out and work properly or will I need to replace it?

 

[Fritz Maurer]

Sure, it doesn't bend very hard. Make it parallel to the opening in the block, and see that it is not twisted. It's just a flat stamping with no fancy bends. The link should drop freely onto the rack pin... the real headache is getting the cotter or hair pin though that hole. I magnetize a pair of needle nose pliers so as to not drop the pin into the cam box.
You can't change that link without removing the timing cover. Major surgery.

After governor work of this nature, remove the air intake hose and find a small piece of wood that fits over the inlet. Then you can stop a runaway if it occurs.

 

[Kent2255]

Thanks, I will take if back out and see what I can do with it. Thanks for the info, it is greatly appreciated

 

[Bern]

Sure, it doesn't bend very hard. Make it parallel to the opening in the block, and see that it is not twisted. It's just a flat stamping with no fancy bends. The link should drop freely onto the rack pin... the real headache is getting the cotter or hair pin though that hole. I magnetize a pair of needle nose pliers so as to not drop the pin into the cam box.
You can't change that link without removing the timing cover. Major surgery.

After governor work of this nature, remove the air intake hose and find a small piece of wood that fits over the inlet. Then you can stop a runaway if it occurs.

Very good advice!