Ford 2000 running terrible

[flying belgian]

Ninety nine percent of the time it is the points. Always start with the points.

 

[kenbob]

Condensers from China have been known to fail after an hrs use, they all seem to be junk. I have not heard of them causing the problem you have, but if you have the old one, you might want to put it back in just for grins and see what happens.

 

[Lefty53]

Thanks to all again. I did try enriching the mixture by spraying gas into the carb throat, did not change at all. I am planning to remove carb again to clean passages with nozzle cleaners. The plugs removed were black but not oily, I know tan is the color desired there. I'm not sure if that is meaningful to my situation or not? I checked the points early on, they are fine, I checked the gap. I will try a different condensor. I am busy enough with other things I am not spending too much time on the tractor, but will post back anything significant. Thanks
Doug

 

[Welding man]

Thanks to all again. I did try enriching the mixture by spraying gas into the carb throat, did not change at all. I am planning to remove carb again to clean passages with nozzle cleaners. The plugs removed were black but not oily, I know tan is the color desired there. I'm not sure if that is meaningful to my situation or not? I checked the points early on, they are fine, I checked the gap. I will try a different condensor. I am busy enough with other things I am not spending too much time on the tractor, but will post back anything significant. Thanks
Doug

We converted one to electronic ignition this week. Starts very easy and purrs like a kitten.

 

[ErnieD]

Thanks to all again. I did try enriching the mixture by spraying gas into the carb throat, did not change at all. I am planning to remove carb again to clean passages with nozzle cleaners. The plugs removed were black but not oily, I know tan is the color desired there. I'm not sure if that is meaningful to my situation or not? I checked the points early on, they are fine, I checked the gap. I will try a different condensor. I am busy enough with other things I am not spending too much time on the tractor, but will post back anything significant. Thanks
Doug

Try dragging a piece of paper through the points closed. Won't be a first time an oil film built up.

 

[Lefty53]

To catch up: I decided to change what I was fairly certain did not need changed, having come to a point of not knowing what else to do. installed new points, condensor, cap and rotor. Thought I had it. Ran great for 10-15 minutes, then right back to same exact symptoms. I still need to clean carb passages with torch tip cleaners, and also test spark with a tester under problem conditions as recommended above. Thanks to all.

 

[Btzj02]

During this last 10 to 15 minutes run did you test for spark immediately after it started running bad? If indeed it is a spark problem the symptoms seem to point to a bad coil. A bad condenser usually shows up in the short term, 30 seconds or so and a bad coil will show up after the coil warms up, 15 to 30 minutes.

 

[Lefty53]

I am going to do that, but I just replaced the coil.

 

[Lynn Patrick]

I am going to do that, but I just replaced the coil.

Welcome to today's world! New parts no longer means GOOD parts!

 

[Lefty53]

I am fully aware of the chronic issue with trying to get good parts; however, these symptoms with my tractor are quite unusual, and it is hard for me to believe that new parts that are faulty would still give exactly those symptoms. In any case, I am going to test spark strength under load and we'll know. Thanks
Doug

 

[pomester]

I am fully aware of the chronic issue with trying to get good parts; however, these symptoms with my tractor are quite unusual, and it is hard for me to believe that new parts that are faulty would still give exactly those symptoms. In any case, I am going to test spark strength under load and we'll know. Thanks
Doug

Have you check your manifold attachment for leaks? Many years ago I had a tractor with symptoms I remember being similar to what you describe. I finally figured out that when I reassembled it after overhaul I hadn't torqued the manifold bolts.

 

[Keith Williams]

I am fully aware of the chronic issue with trying to get good parts; however, these symptoms with my tractor are quite unusual, and it is hard for me to believe that new parts that are faulty would still give exactly those symptoms. In any case, I am going to test spark strength under load and we'll know. Thanks
Doug

I recently had problems with my 64 4000. Started it and shut it off then went to restart and NO SPARK.
I found the insulating connector thru the side of the distributor had failed. The points did not spark as the circuit went to ground thru the distributor case.
During my search for my problem, I disassembled my distributor to an empty shell and cleaned it as I reinstalled all the parts. It is not hard to do and by doing this I gained a better understanding of it's workings.

As I put it together I missed a step and my tractor started but ran as you describe.
I had forgotten to hook up the condenser LOL!
It started but ran poorly with no power, stumbling all over itself.

I have it running in top shape again. I put in all new BLUE STREAK parts. I hope I don't have to touch it for a long time.

HTH
Keith

 

[Lefty53]

Pomester: I have looked at manifold joints but I will look at that closer. Thanks
Keith: I have been in distributor several times, that connection is fine, I did have to repair that a few years ago. Thanks
Doug

 

[Lefty53]

Regarding the manifold: is there a way to check for leaks there? That is something I have wondered about, with the backfiring. This tractor has not been apart since I have had it (15+ years). I hope to have time to work on it this weekend, but not sure. Spark testing and carb is next.

 

[kenbob]

Spraying carb cleaner around the manifold connection points would reveal a leak if you can keep the tractor running long enough to do it. It should change rpms as you spray if there is a leak.

 

[kenbob]

Heat should make the maifold swell and fit tighter, but maybe as it warms it creates a gap somewhere so after 15 min it dies.

 

[kenbob]

Try running with the muffler off, just in case something has broken inside the muffler causing an obstruction that builds up after running a while.

 

[Lefty53]

I will try the spraying carb cleaner at the joints. Thanks

 

[Btzj02]

I spent the day today getting my 4000 running and until I figured it out I had symptoms very similar to you. First thing, it was back firing and popping like crazy. I found I had turned the distributor the wrong way when setting the original timing. Argh. Next I got it to start but sounded really rough and would backfire at every throttle change and in a short time it quit. I Replaced the new "kit" condenser with a new one that I was saving. Then it ran pretty good with out stopping but still ran like it was missing.I Pulled one wire at a time and it ran a little better when I pulled #4 or "3 wire. And there it was: firing order 1, 2, 3, 4. Not 1,2,4,3. Some where along the line I messed that up. I thought I was being very careful but I discovered, again, that I indeed am human.

 

[Lefty53]

I finally had opportunity to try and diagnose my tractor further: I did spray carb cleaner around the intake connections(I also tried this with propane). This did not change the condition at all. I also took carb off again and cleaned all passages with tip cleaners. This also did not produce any improvement at all. As stated before, if carb is the problem, I cannot understand how. If it is, I will need a new one, but I am certainly reluctant to buy new. These carbs are so simple, it is hard to see how this is my problem. The condition I am having will not change at all by choking the carb.
Next I did a more complete analysis of the spark. Here I found an issue, not sure what is causing it, could be the problem: The spark is very nice blue/white spark, on all 4 cylinders will jump 1/2". Removing one at a time definitely causes an engine miss in each. I decided to eliminate plug wires, so I used a new piece of copper core cable to test from the cap towers. I eventually noticed that the spark though strong, was intermittent. Sometimes seeming to skip several cycles and then fire again. very irregular, and it does not seem to be dependent on rpms. I guess I am going to have to replace cap and rotor again from a different source. Not sure what else could cause this condition? I had another rotor button and tried it so I am now on my second cap and third rotor, with no change whatever in the symptoms. I am still busy with care of my mom and other tasks, so again not sure when I will work on it again.