Ford 2000 running terrible

[Jim.ME]

This may have been asked and answered. Is the little clip on the distributor shaft in place under the rotor button to hold the button in alignment?

 

[Lefty53]

Yes it is. Thanks.

 

[Sean in PA]

Have you checked the distributor shaft for wobble?

 

[kenbob]

Maybe not enough tension on the points spring, causing it to flutter a bit?

 

[Jim.ME]

Yes it is. Thanks.

Try closing the points down to .022" and run a clean piece of uncoated card stock or brown paper bag (even a folded-up dollar bill between the point contacts to clean them when you finish.

Try pushing sideways and back and forth on the distributor shaft while watching the point gap. Too much can throw things off when running.

Did you do the test of holding a pint container under the carb bowl drain and timing how long it takes to get a pint? As previously posted time the steady stream you get after the 5 to 10 seconds it takes to empty the carb bowl.

 

[Lefty53]

Yes I have checked for lateral movement of distributor shaft, not certain, but it seems ok. Points are new. I am obviously needing to dig deeper to find the problem causing the erratic spark. The spark is so strong, it seems the problem must be in secondary distribution of the spark. However at this point I am retracing my steps in the whole ignition system. I will be going through the distributor completely for fourth time, likely will find a NH dealer for some new parts. Thanks guys

 

[Lefty53]

Jim: I will retest the fuel flow as you suggested. Thanks

 

[Hobo,NC]

I finally had opportunity to try and diagnose my tractor further: I did spray carb cleaner around the intake connections(I also tried this with propane). This did not change the condition at all. I also took carb off again and cleaned all passages with tip cleaners. This also did not produce any improvement at all. As stated before, if carb is the problem, I cannot understand how. If it is, I will need a new one, but I am certainly reluctant to buy new. These carbs are so simple, it is hard to see how this is my problem. The condition I am having will not change at all by choking the carb.
Next I did a more complete analysis of the spark. Here I found an issue, not sure what is causing it, could be the problem: The spark is very nice blue/white spark, on all 4 cylinders will jump 1/2". Removing one at a time definitely causes an engine miss in each. I decided to eliminate plug wires, so I used a new piece of copper core cable to test from the cap towers. I eventually noticed that the spark though strong, was intermittent. Sometimes seeming to skip several cycles and then fire again. very irregular, and it does not seem to be dependent on rpms. I guess I am going to have to replace cap and rotor again from a different source. Not sure what else could cause this condition? I had another rotor button and tried it so I am now on my second cap and third rotor, with no change whatever in the symptoms. I am still busy with care of my mom and other tasks, so again not sure when I will work on it again.

Jim: I will retest the fuel flow as you suggested. Thanks

#63 to get to something to work with why would you still be fudgen with the fuel its not going to help what you found.

 

[Sean in PA]

Another thing to check on those distributors is the wire that goes from the coil down through the base of the distributor to the points. Sometimes the wire insulation gets worn where it goes through the wall of the base of the distributor and it can short to ground.

 

[Hobo,NC]

Yes I have checked for lateral movement of distributor shaft, not certain, but it seems ok. Points are new. I am obviously needing to dig deeper to find the problem causing the erratic spark. The spark is so strong, it seems the problem must be in secondary distribution of the spark. However at this point I am retracing my steps in the whole ignition system. I will be going through the distributor completely for fourth time, likely will find a NH dealer for some new parts. Thanks guys

Your problem is most likely in the primary side


Ignition system is divided into two electrical circuits - the primary and secondary circuits. The primary circuit carries low voltage. This circuit operates only on battery current and is controlled by the breaker points and the ignition switch.

Note they should have added the ground side as a bad ground will lower primary voltage. Something as simple as the points plate not making a good ground to the distributor base will get ya.

Every part can be checked and confirmed in a shadtree manner except the ignition coil. Another note keep in mind a ohm meter can confirm a bad coil but not confirm its good. In other words it can check good and still be bad : (.

The coil is the load everything else in the primary is part of the voltage supply and switching circuit. Normally you look it over for good health if all fails substitute the load (coil) with an equal load such as a automotive headlight bulb that will draw 4 amps. Yes there are other ways to check the primary circuit the headlight test will confirm primary circuit health at least in a static position.

 

[Keith Williams]

Another thing to check on those distributors is the wire that goes from the coil down through the base of the distributor to the points. Sometimes the wire insulation gets worn where it goes through the wall of the base of the distributor and it can short to ground.

I suggested that at reply #52.
I believe he has a failed CONDENSOR. It is failed open so it is like it is not there.
I also gave that advise in reply 52.
Keith

 

[Recoil]

I finally had opportunity to try and diagnose my tractor further: I did spray carb cleaner around the intake connections(I also tried this with propane). This did not change the condition at all. I also took carb off again and cleaned all passages with tip cleaners. This also did not produce any improvement at all. As stated before, if carb is the problem, I cannot understand how. If it is, I will need a new one, but I am certainly reluctant to buy new. These carbs are so simple, it is hard to see how this is my problem. The condition I am having will not change at all by choking the carb.
Next I did a more complete analysis of the spark. Here I found an issue, not sure what is causing it, could be the problem: The spark is very nice blue/white spark, on all 4 cylinders will jump 1/2". Removing one at a time definitely causes an engine miss in each. I decided to eliminate plug wires, so I used a new piece of copper core cable to test from the cap towers. I eventually noticed that the spark though strong, was intermittent. Sometimes seeming to skip several cycles and then fire again. very irregular, and it does not seem to be dependent on rpms. I guess I am going to have to replace cap and rotor again from a different source. Not sure what else could cause this condition? I had another rotor button and tried it so I am now on my second cap and third rotor, with no change whatever in the symptoms. I am still busy with care of my mom and other tasks, so again not sure when I will work on it again.

You may have a bad condenser. I'd change that out and put in new points while you're in there.

 

[Hobo,NC]

I suggested that at reply #52.
I believe he has a failed CONDENSOR. It is failed open so it is like it is not there.
I also gave that advise in reply 52.
Keith

I have never seen a condenser fail intermittently they die that's it you will have constant weak spark a no brainer IMHO. Its worth a try I am not betting on it.

 

[Recoil]

I have never seen a condenser fail intermittently they die that's it you will have constant weak spark a no brainer IMHO. Its worth a try I am not betting on it.

I guess it would depend on where he got his points and condenser. If they are Chinese knockoffs, anything is possible.

To the OP - you have an obvious ignition/spark issue that you indicated. Now that you know what is happening (spark, then intermittent spark), take a look from the ignition coil forward. Replace your coil if it is suspect. Inspect your points. Do the points looked burned, misaligned, or just "off"? If you used Chinese points and condenser, replace them with ones from a known, reputable place. Check your cam lobes. Are the lobes in good shape? Are the lobes still secure to the distributor shaft, or is there any play there? Look at the rotor and cap for damage or severe burn marks. Check to see if your spark is grounding out to the frame/engine somewhere.

 

[Lefty53]

Sean, Keith and Recoil: The wire connection going into the dist. is good, has been double checked. Points and condenser are new, but I will try from NH dealer. Coil is new, cap and rotor are new. Regarding parts, I am not sure even the dealer parts are not made somewhere in Asia. At this point it is obvious there is something I am missing, or replacement parts that are bad. The saga continues! I say again how much I appreciate all the help found here. I would sure like to get this thing going, I have a tree or two I need to get cut, and will need to drag logs to the woods.
Doug

 

[Lefty53]

Hobo sorry I somehow missed your

 

[Lefty53]

Previous sent to soon! My keyboard work is terrible. Hobo I somehow missed your post #70. In order to get a better look at the primary side I will need to spend some time with a meter. The thing that throws me off is that it seems like with all the parts I have changed, the condition I am seeing should have changed at least some. For that reason I am beginning to think there is something small thing somewhere that I have not found. I will definitely post back what I find. Thanks

 

[Keith Williams]

Previous sent to soon! My keyboard work is terrible. Hobo I somehow missed your post #70. In order to get a better look at the primary side I will need to spend some time with a meter. The thing that throws me off is that it seems like with all the parts I have changed, the condition I am seeing should have changed at least some. For that reason I am beginning to think there is something small thing somewhere that I have not found. I will definitely post back what I find. Thanks

I will try this again.
There is a wire that goes from the coil to the distributor. At the distributor, there is a nut on a bolt. That bolt goes thru the side of the distributor inside an insulator. On the inside there is a small square piece of insulating material then a piece of copper then the square end of the bolt. The copper strip goes up to the points where the condenser also hooks up.

There are several failure points in that small area.

I have read on here where the copper strip broke making intermittent contact.
On mine the small square piece of insulating material broke down and I had a dead short to the distributor case. I placed a piece of a plastic applesauce container on the bolt to fix it.

I will again say, it was a great learning experience to take all the components out of the distributor and clean them and check them as you reinstall them.

I have a much better understanding of its parts functions and weaknesses.
HTH
Keith

 

[Hobo,NC]

Sean, Keith and Recoil: The wire connection going into the dist. is good, has been double checked. Points and condenser are new, but I will try from NH dealer. Coil is new, cap and rotor are new. Regarding parts, I am not sure even the dealer parts are not made somewhere in Asia. At this point it is obvious there is something I am missing, or replacement parts that are bad. The saga continues! I say again how much I appreciate all the help found here. I would sure like to get this thing going, I have a tree or two I need to get cut, and will need to drag logs to the woods.
Doug

New does not mean much anymore I have had my share of bad contacts out of the box have you cleaned them with emery cloth?

 

[Lefty53]

Keith, I responded to this in # 75. I had this issue several years ago and redid that with a continuous wire from coil to points, sealed with silicone at the hole thru distributor wall. I double checked that very early in this whole process. I will probably change this to the original parts, but there is no connnection issue here. As said above there is probably something I have missed here somewhere. I had a tumour removed a year ago that left me with double vision, and close-up work can be a challenge. I'll get it eventually. Thanks