Ford 2000 running terrible

[Hobo,NC]

Keith, I responded to this in # 75. I had this issue several years ago and redid that with a continuous wire from coil to points, sealed with silicone at the hole thru distributor wall. I double checked that very early in this whole process. I will probably change this to the original parts, but there is no connnection issue here. As said above there is probably something I have missed here somewhere. I had a tumour removed a year ago that left me with double vision, and close-up work can be a challenge. I'll get it eventually. Thanks

You would think a straight through repair would be great but it can cause more issues down the road. As the vacuum advance moves its constantly work hardening the copper in the wire that and along with clearance issues its hard to rout it without touching something that will cause a rub through are just hitting metal. Its hard to beat the OEM set up.

 

[used red MN]

Keith, I responded to this in # 75. I had this issue several years ago and redid that with a continuous wire from coil to points, sealed with silicone at the hole thru distributor wall. I double checked that very early in this whole process. I will probably change this to the original parts, but there is no connnection issue here. As said above there is probably something I have missed here somewhere. I had a tumour removed a year ago that left me with double vision, and close-up work can be a challenge. I'll get it eventually. Thanks

Have you check the continuity of the points ground wire number 21? How much play is in the mounting connections of plate 14 that the points set on? This looks a lot like a Ford automotive distributor, after 20,000 miles or more they all developed some play in them. Knowing how much was acceptable to keep it running properly was a “feel of it” type of deal. Have you ever tried to see how it runs without the vacuum advance line connected?
Link to dist. diagram CNHI Ford 2000 dist. diagram

 

[Lefty53]

Hobo, I fully agree with your last post, and I need to change it back to OEM. Red, that doesn't look like my distributor, not sure I even have that part # 14. Also do not have that ground wire you mentioned, may be the problem, that has never been on this tractor since I've owned it. I can't tell which screws that runs from and to? Also I can't see a vac advance on this dist. Does that look like a typical funnel shaped pot with a small hose on side of dist.? My tractor does not have that. Thanks

 

[used red MN]

Red, that doesn't look like my distributor, not sure I even have that part # 14. Also do not have that ground wire you mentioned,

That is the distributor shown in the linked parts catalog for a 65 - 74 2000. I also see that they may have been built these as early as 62 so maybe what I am looking at doesn’t cover earlier models or someone changed the distributor. Does yours look like the one in the link with a vacuum advance diaphragm? If it doesn’t have a vacuum advance it probably wouldn’t need that ground wire. Hobo can answer better to what you should have, he mentioned the vacuum advance so that is why I looked up the distributor. Quite often photos help in these situations, things can be seen that sometimes go unnoticed to the untrained eye.

 

[Hobo,NC]

Hobo, I fully agree with your last post, and I need to change it back to OEM. Red, that doesn't look like my distributor, not sure I even have that part # 14. Also do not have that ground wire you mentioned, may be the problem, that has never been on this tractor since I've owned it. I can't tell which screws that runs from and to? Also I can't see a vac advance on this dist. Does that look like a typical funnel shaped pot with a small hose on side of dist.? My tractor does not have that. Thanks

I was thinking 3000 on the vac. advance. Either way its difficult to do a clean straight through repair. BTDT down the road it seamed to always bite me.

 

[Lefty53]

That diagram does not look like mine at all. I definitely do not have a vac advance. When I am able to work on it again I will very carefully check it over. What do I look for regarding ground side of primary circuit? What are the potential failure points? Thanks

 

[Sean in PA]

They did not add the vacuum advance until 1965 when the 2000 was a completely different tractor with a 3 cylinder engine and used a Holley carb.

 

[used red MN]

They did not add the vacuum advance until 1965 when the 2000 was a completely different tractor with a 3 cylinder engine and used a Holley carb.

Thanks, one of these days the 4cyl vs 3 cylinder deal will soak into the grey matter. Only Ford would pull something like that!

 

[Hobo,NC]

That diagram does not look like mine at all. I definitely do not have a vac advance. When I am able to work on it again I will very carefully check it over. What do I look for regarding ground side of primary circuit? What are the potential failure points? Thanks

The contacts are grounded at the points base plate in the distributor, the base plate it made to come out so you can disassemble the distributor. The distributor is grounded to the engine block then to the negative cable to the battery. The most common ground point issue is points plate to distributor take the plate out and clean where it contacts the distributor base.

 

[used red MN]

Only Ford would pull something like that!

Is this the part you are liking? lol!

 

[Lefty53]

Thanks Hobo, I will remove that plate and check that out. Sean and red: thanks for posting that diagram, and then clarifying the issue of vac advance. Y'all are SO helpful, and I sure appreciate it!

 

[Lefty53]

I spent a lot of time disassembling my distributor. everything looked fine, but I wire brushed/filed contact surfaces, and put back together. Installed new set of points and condensor. The inside of housing is clean and no sign of any moisture. The advance weights and springs looked fine. Tried again, same exact same symptoms. Next I am going to check the timing, and get a better check on fuel flow volume. I am just not sure what else to try. Will report back if I have any success. Thanks

 

[soaked]

Previous sent to soon! My keyboard work is terrible. Hobo I somehow missed your post #70. In order to get a better look at the primary side I will need to spend some time with a meter. The thing that throws me off is that it seems like with all the parts I have changed, the condition I am seeing should have changed at least some. For that reason I am beginning to think there is something small thing somewhere that I have not found. I will definitely post back what I find. Thanks

An easy way to get info on your upstream primary curcuit is to jump coil straight to the battery. If already mentioned I didnt see it

 

[kenbob]

I thought I aready posted this but don't see it. You know there is a filter inside the sediment bowl? And 2 small filters at the fuel pump in front? Friend had same issue and even put on new fuel pump but he did not know there was a filter inside the bowl. That was the problem.

 

[Hobo,NC]

Yes I have checked for lateral movement of distributor shaft, not certain, but it seems ok. Points are new. I am obviously needing to dig deeper to find the problem causing the erratic spark. The spark is so strong, it seems the problem must be in secondary distribution of the spark. However at this point I am retracing my steps in the whole ignition system. I will be going through the distributor completely for fourth time, likely will find a NH dealer for some new parts. Thanks guys

erratic spark, seeing as you can duplicate this issue while the tractor is at a stand still use a 12V test light on the distributor side of the coil. Look for erratic blink of the light. You can also go to the ignition side and do the same test. Ignition testers that use a light inline with a plug wire are coil wire from coil to cap are good for testing this event that's about all they are good for they do not test spark strength so never trust them to test for good spark they only show the event happen.

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/PTTW86554?gQT=1

 

[JMOR]

It will run with propane feed into air intake, even if you had not gasoline at all. If it runs fine on propane, then look at fuel/carb, if not, then look beyond carb. Also, clearly you have folks giving you misleading advice the don't even know the tractor that you are working on. Fuel pump, vacuum advance, Holley, Zenith carbs, etc.?????not there.

 

[kenbob]

oops. I didn't read the first thread and thought it was the 3cyl, not the older model 4cyl

 

[Keith Williams]

Have you check the continuity of the points ground wire number 21? How much play is in the mounting connections of plate 14 that the points set on? This looks a lot like a Ford automotive distributor, after 20,000 miles or more they all developed some play in them. Knowing how much was acceptable to keep it running properly was a “feel of it” type of deal. Have you ever tried to see how it runs without the vacuum advance line connected?
Link to dist. diagram CNHI Ford 2000 dist. diagram
View attachment 107912

Wrong tractor! That's the Distributor on a 1965 or newer 2000 not a 1964 or older!

 

[used red MN]

Wrong tractor! That's the Distributor on a 1965 or newer 2000 not a 1964 or older!

If you read more of the replies that has already been established. I know it seems like “another day at the office” for Ford people, but having what is essentially two different tractors with the same model designation is strange outside of the Ford corral. Name it a 2001,
2010 or a 2000a… something to designate that there is a difference, rant over!

 

[Jim.ME]

Wrong tractor! That's the Distributor on a 1965 or newer 2000 not a 1964 or older!

Already established back in posts #87 and #88 last week.