Ford 2000 won’t fire

[Steelerfan]

Hello everyone, I have been working on my brothers 1973 ford 2000 3 cylinder gas for a few months now, I brought it here because he was using it then it died and wouldn’t start back this is what I have done so far I changed the distributor with one from Steiner and the plug wires plus the head gasket and freeze plugs cause they were leaking, got it all back together turned the engine till the first 2 rockers were loose and at tdc and set the distributor in right on #1 no fire messed with it for a couple days then decided to change out the new points so I went to Napa got konklin brznd points,cap, rotor button wow it started I as Lao replaced the coil but it ran great came back the next evening started right r as n for a few min died back to no fire so I sent the distributor back got a new one, ordered a new key switch that’s supposed to be for gas or diesel and got a new wiring harness did all that still no fire then ordered another coil and pertronix ei got all that in and still no fire at all, right now I have the starter off and in the shop getting new brushes and bushing I did find the wire from starter to cylinoid had a chewed up spot so I made a new one, I am still waiting on the starter to get done but can anyone help me on why I’m not getting any spark, this is my 1st 3 cylinder, I own several old ford all 4 cylinder engines I have 6 volt, and 12 volt I have points and ei and I never have this with my 4 cylinder tractors this 3 cylinder has me stump bad, thanks to everyone who tries to help me

 

[Sean in PA]

Do proper diagnosing before throwing parts and $ at it. You had it running and it died. That means that it either lost fuel or a strong enough spark at the proper time. Test for which it is. Get a spark tester that goes in-line with a spark plug wire to see the quality of the spark. Use a timing light to see when the spark is happening. Once you now that you have a good strong spark happening at the correct time, then check the fuel flow. I have seen too many people on here rebuilding carburetors when their problem was the spark.

 

[Steelerfan]

I have a spark tester on it there is no spar, I did rebuild the carb also because it was just plain nasty, I’m getting fuel I’m not getting any spark anymore not on points or ei, it only ran for a little bit then no good spark

 

[Jim.ME]

I have a spark tester on it there is no spar, I did rebuild the carb also because it was just plain nasty, I’m getting fuel I’m not getting any spark anymore not on points or ei, it only ran for a little bit then no good spark

Have you checked to see that there is power where needed when the key is on? You don't say and just putting a new switch in does not guarantee power is being delivered where needed. Wires break, connections go bad, etc. Confirm power to the ignition.

Check grounding as well.

 

[Steelerfan]

I felt like ground could be a problem so I wire wheeled under the distributor and also where the starter mounts , the ground for the battery is grounded through one of the starter bolts that’s where it’s always been, I won’t be able to check much till Monday hopefully I will get the starter back then, now the key switch I bought c AC me from Steiner it said gas or diesel but I’m thinking I need to get the one for gas only cause I do feel like it loosing power when turning to the start position, it’s there in the on position but goes away when turn to start

 

[Steelerfan]

I required it cause of mice, key switch because our uncle had a key to it now he has dementia so I changed it so he wouldn’t have a key but all this has stressed me out because I’m not being able to finish restoring my 861 till I get his out of my way

 

[used red MN]

Have you checked to see that there is power where needed when the key is on?

I do feel like it loosing power when turning to the start position, it’s there in the on position but goes away when turn to start

Sorry to be kind of blunt but if you want help you should not force us to read between the lines. Do you just “feel” like your power is there or it goes away?? We need to know if it was confirmed with a test light or a meter. The key switch should continue to direct power to the ignition in the crank position. If it does not the switch is faulty or it is not wired correctly.

 

[Jim.ME]

I have a spark tester on it there is no spar, I did rebuild the carb also because it was just plain nasty, I’m getting fuel I’m not getting any spark anymore not on points or ei, it only ran for a little bit then no good spark

You posted: "not on points or ei" . You have post about both in the same post.

Which do you have? Please use only the correct one for what you are working on, they are not the same thing. No one here can see it and suggestion may be different for the two.

The principles and components of distributor spark ignitions are the same, the difference in the number of cylinders between a 3 and 4 cylinder is not a factor in troubleshooting the ignition.

Run a jumper wire to the coil terminal (that the wire from the switch connects to) from the battery hot terminal (12 volt positive if this is a negative ground system) and see if it starts with that jumper in place. If it does it indicates the problem is in the wiring or switch ahead of the coil.

 

[Steelerfan]

Sorry to be kind of blunt but if you want help you should not force us to read between the lines. Do you just “feel” like your power is there or it goes away?? We need to know if it was confirmed with a test light or a meter. The key switch should continue to direct power to the ignition in the crank position. If it does not the switch is faulty or it is not wired correctly.

I used a meter and yes when I turned it to on I had 12 volts but when turn on around to crank it went to nothing, I checked the switch I can’t find any spot on it that stays hot in crank except the main battery wire and the one going to the start cylinoid

 

[showcrop]

Try reading your post before hitting enter.

 

[Steelerfan]

Sorry about that I don’t have a computer I’m using my phone

 

[Steelerfan]

You posted: "not on points or ei" . You have post about both in the same post.

Which do you have? Please use only the correct one for what you are working on, they are not the same thing. No one here can see it and suggestion may be different for the two.

The principles and components of distributor spark ignitions are the same, the difference in the number of cylinders between a 3 and 4 cylinder is not a factor in troubleshooting the ignition.

Run a jumper wire to the coil terminal (that the wire from the switch connects to) from the battery hot terminal (12 volt positive if this is a negative ground system) and see if it starts with that jumper in place. If it does it indicates the problem is in the wiring or switch ahead of the coil.

I tried 2 sets of points I now have the pertronix in it

 

[Jim.ME]

I used a meter and yes when I turned it to on I had 12 volts but when turn on around to crank it went to nothing, I checked the switch I can’t find any spot on it that stays hot in crank except the main battery wire and the one going to the start cylinoid

That sounds like a bad or wrong switch. Try the jumper wire as I suggested, so you are certain the coil has power, and see what happens.

And if you need another switch or other parts, remember the company that provides this site sells parts, and Steiner is their competitor. Not to say the switches don't all come from the same place.

 

[Jim.ME]

What is the part number of the switch you installed?

 

[Steelerfan]

I will look later when I get back home I’m at work right now

 

[Sean in PA]

I used a meter and yes when I turned it to on I had 12 volts but when turn on around to crank it went to nothing, I checked the switch I can’t find any spot on it that stays hot in crank except the main battery wire and the one going to the start cylinoid

On some key switches designed to be used with a bypass resistor, there is no voltage at the run terminal of the key switch when the key is in the start position, only when it is in the run position., With those types of key switched, the bypass wire is needed from the solenoid to the coil to provide 12 volts to the coil when the key is in the start position.

 

[Jim.ME]

On some key switches designed to be used with a bypass resistor, there is no voltage at the run terminal of the key switch when the key is in the start position, only when it is in the run position., With those types of key switched, the bypass wire is needed from the solenoid to the coil to provide 12 volts to the coil when the key is in the start position.

Good point. That bypass is generally used with a resistance wire in the circuit from the key switch to the coil, isn't it? If that is the case here, depending on the EI installed the resistor wire would need to be removed, if the instructions say no resistors, wouldn't it?

I found a Ford Manual with a wiring diagram for Ford tractors of the 1000 series that shows a resistance wire, and the bypass used with the 5" coil. The 5-1/2" coil uses no resistance wire and bypass.

 

[sotxbill]

I used a meter and yes when I turned it to on I had 12 volts but when turn on around to crank it went to nothing, I checked the switch I can’t find any spot on it that stays hot in crank except the main battery wire and the one going to the start cylinoid

Actually that is correct... as the starter seloniod is now repsonsible for provideing power to the coil, while cranking. You MUST have the correct selonoid and it MUST have a bypass wire that runs from the I terminal to the coil positivie post. AS.... the ford ignition switch ONLY provides power in the run position and NOT in the start position. THE bypass wire is there to bypass the build in ballast resistor built into the original wire to the coil that dropped the "run" voltage to 6 volts, but in the crank position, it provided a full 12 volts to the coil.

 

[Steelerfan]

The start selonoid I didn’t replace and there is not anything at all on the i terminal but I did check it for 12 volts and it didn’t have 12 volts on it how do I get it to have 12 volts there

 

[Sean in PA]

Good point. That bypass is generally used with a resistance wire in the circuit from the key switch to the coil, isn't it? If that is the case here, depending on the EI installed the resistor wire would need to be removed, if the instructions say no resistors, wouldn't it?

I found a Ford Manual with a wiring diagram for Ford tractors of the 1000 series that shows a resistance wire, and the bypass used with the 5" coil. The 5-1/2" coil uses no resistance wire and bypass.

Yes, the 3 cylinder gas engine 2000/3000/4000/5000 series used a resistance wire between the key switch and the solenoid from the factory rather than a traditional ballast resistor. I'm not sure which models had a 5-1/2" coil, possibly the 5000? Every 2000, 3000 & 4000 gasser that I have seen has had a bypass wire unless the coil had been replaced with a true 12 volt coil with no resistance wire or resistor. If there's no resistance wire or resistor, then there's nothing to bypass.