Ford 3000 NO SPARK with ignitor ignition

Rpatterson19

New User
I have a Ford 3000 that is getting the best of me, I am getting no spark out of the coil to dist cap and no spark to the plugs, here is what I have done, 8 months ago I installed a new Ignitor electronic ignition getting rid of the old points and condenser, after that it ran great with no issues, now I have no spark againnew coil (3.5ohm) new dist cap and rotor, new plug wires, new spark plugs, new battery, verified good battery voltage on coil + when key is on, tested the ignitor module in the distributor and it tests perfect according to the troubleshooting manualwhat am I missing??

After updated ignition was installed and the tractor was running it was put in a barn until now, and now i have no spark, tractor hasn t been used at all just sitting in the barn, nothing has changed since it ran last
 
I have a Ford 3000 that is getting the best of me, I am getting no spark out of the coil to dist cap and no spark to the plugs

If you have no spark out of the top of the coil with the ignition on, then you can ignore everything downstream and figure out why that is -- either you have inadequate voltage to the coil or the coil is bad.
 
The original coil tested good but it was a low resistance coil (1.4ohm), so I thought that was the issue, I bought a brand new coil that is (3.5ohm) and there is still no spark, with key on I have battery voltage to the + post of coil, when cranking I have good battery voltage to coil, when key is off battery voltage is off to the coil as it should be. I have the red wire from ignitor module hooked to + post of coil and the black wire hooked to - post of coil
 
(quoted from post at 06:34:55 08/16/22) The original coil tested good but it was a low resistance coil (1.4ohm), so I thought that was the issue, I bought a brand new coil that is (3.5ohm) and there is still no spark, with key on I have battery voltage to the + post of coil, when cranking I have good battery voltage to coil, when key is off battery voltage is off to the coil as it should be. I have the red wire from ignitor module hooked to + post of coil and the black wire hooked to - post of coil
onnect a 12v lamp (parking , tail, brake, etc) or test light, between coil (-) and ground and see if if flickers when cranking with ignition ON.
 
Ok I will try that, so take a regular 12v test light and go from - post on coil to battery negative? If it does not flicker on and off what would I look for next?
 
(quoted from post at 09:08:54 08/16/22) Ok I will try that, so take a regular 12v test light and go from - post on coil to battery negative? If it does not flicker on and off what would I look for next?
o flicker will indicate that coil is open or that module is not switching. To determine which, connect light directly between the two coil terminals. No flicker indicated module not switching. One final shot might be to feed the coil + directly from battery+ instead of via ignition switch.
 
Ok I will try this later, thank you! I have already hooked battery positive directly to coil positive and still had no spark, I will try the test light flicker test
 

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