Ford 3000 top link stupidity

Afternoon, as my username implies, I'm here with questions. And I'd like to add I've read the manual cover to cover twice before coming to your experts with my hat in hand.

As I learn the ins and out of my 1972 Ford 3000, I've stumbled into a problem that leads me to yet another question: I cannot get the top link so sit flush in the top link bracket of the tractor. Meaning I can't get the pin to slide all of the way through. I see a simple or cut out on the bracket where the round end of the link would rest as you slide the pin through. This is the stick link that came with the tractor 50+ years ago so I know it's operator error. And because of this problem I realize there seems to be a hydraulic cylinder from the machine to that top link bracket. I'm attaching pictures in hope of not irritating anyone who can lend a hand.

Thank you in advance for any info you can provide. My tiny brain tells me I should by pulling a lever to get that top link cylinder to extend and then the bracket would align with the top link. But don't just want to yank thinks hoping something moves!!

Rookie
 

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Afternoon, as my username implies, I'm here with questions. And I'd like to add I've read the manual cover to cover twice before coming to your experts with my hat in hand.

As I learn the ins and out of my 1972 Ford 3000, I've stumbled into a problem that leads me to yet another question: I cannot get the top link so sit flush in the top link bracket of the tractor. Meaning I can't get the pin to slide all of the way through. I see a simple or cut out on the bracket where the round end of the link would rest as you slide the pin through. This is the stick link that came with the tractor 50+ years ago so I know it's operator error. And because of this problem I realize there seems to be a hydraulic cylinder from the machine to that top link bracket. I'm attaching pictures in hope of not irritating anyone who can lend a hand.

Thank you in advance for any info you can provide. My tiny brain tells me I should by pulling a lever to get that top link cylinder to extend and then the bracket would align with the top link. But don't just want to yank thinks hoping something moves!!

Rookie
Welcome to YT forums and PartsASAP.
The round cylindrical item of the top link mount structure is (IIRC) the draft control sensing link. There is a possibility that the structure is slightly bent. if so it could cause the sensing plunger (tongue like thing in the center of the casting) to jamb/stick. If it is, it could be in need of straightening, or replacement. The draft control lever may also have a relationship as to that sensing tongue. Jim
 
Jim, thanks for your speedy reply. Ahhh, I now recall that in order for draft control to work it has to apply pressure to something in order for it to work and or sense. Makes sense. And thanks, I will investigate to see if it's indeed bent. Have a great day.
 
Hello Rookie, welcome to YT! How about a picture of the top link you say is the original one that came with the tractor? I think there is a possible discrepancy on it being an original stock unit. Since you say you are learning the “ins and outs” you probably were not the original buyer.
 
Thanks for your reply. I will pop into the barn first thing in the morning and post a picture. And yes. You are correct. I'm the second owner and possibly mistakenly made the judgement that since it's blue and old it's the original. Which most likely isn't possible. Ha. Thank you for making me realize I can't assume anything with this machine. Pictures coming in the morning. Thank you, UR MN
 
Agree with others that a picture of the top link might be helpful. Wondering if you might be trying to place the wrong end of the link on the tractor.

Also, that is not a cylinder hooked to the top bracket. It is a spring, used to sense load, under certain conditions.
 
Just for added info for you here is a link to the manufacturer’s online parts catalog to the page that shows what is inside that part of the hitch. When it opens it will request you to pick a dealer just X out of that, can explain more later on that. Parts 56 - 60 are inside there. If you use the arrow to the right on the web page it will show you the internal cylinder and connections. Just FYI that link will allow you to see all the parts diagrams for your tractor just click the 3000-Series- 3 cyl.- Tractor at the upper left.
CNHI Ford 3000 parts catalog
 
Thanks for the pro tip. No I know exactly what's going on in there. Hence the spring as was mentioned. Will post that link tomorrow. Thanks again, gents.
 
Just for added info for you here is a link to the manufacturer’s online parts catalog to the page that shows what is inside that part of the hitch. When it opens it will request you to pick a dealer just X out of that, can explain more later on that. Parts 56 - 60 are inside there. If you use the arrow to the right on the web page it will show you the internal cylinder and connections. Just FYI that link will allow you to see all the parts diagrams for your tractor just click the 3000-Series- 3 cyl.- Tractor at the upper left.
CNHI Ford 3000 parts catalog
Interesting. Based on the parts images, the 3000 top link looks about like the generic type. No over the top hood lock (like a hundred series) or clamping rod (like a 4000 top link).
 
Afternoon, as my username implies, I'm here with questions. And I'd like to add I've read the manual cover to cover twice before coming to your experts with my hat in hand.

As I learn the ins and out of my 1972 Ford 3000, I've stumbled into a problem that leads me to yet another question: I cannot get the top link so sit flush in the top link bracket of the tractor. Meaning I can't get the pin to slide all of the way through. I see a simple or cut out on the bracket where the round end of the link would rest as you slide the pin through. This is the stick link that came with the tractor 50+ years ago so I know it's operator error. And because of this problem I realize there seems to be a hydraulic cylinder from the machine to that top link bracket. I'm attaching pictures in hope of not irritating anyone who can lend a hand.

Thank you in advance for any info you can provide. My tiny brain tells me I should by pulling a lever to get that top link cylinder to extend and then the bracket would align with the top link. But don't just want to yank thinks hoping something moves!!

Rookie
Some of the aftermarket top links have a large end on them that hits the back of the bracket before the ball is in far enough for the pin to completely line up, I have a couple that have large ends like on Cat2 top links but have Cat1 balls, they will work on my Farmtrac but not on my brothers 3000
 
Thanks D450. I'm in the process of comparing now. Further, to a previous comment, the top link bracket on the machine is bent. In fact I fount the pin that was being used was snapped in two. So obviously a mishap occurred. I'm gonna compare the link ends first then also heat and bent the top brack a bit to check the fit. Attached are some photos of the link and bracket.
 

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That looks like the original Ford top link from our 4000 SU. I thought the parts books showed a different design, without the clinching rod. Are you certain that you are not trying to put a Cat 2 top link onto a Cat 1 equipped tractor? IIRC a Cat 1 top link uses 3/4 inch pins at both ends, and is 21-28 inches long. A Cat 2 top link uses 1 inch pins, and is 23-32 inches long. But perhaps the current drawings in the parts book just show what is available today.
 
This just in: ditched the top link. Was cracked and rusted and a hassle. Just snagged a fresh one from Tractor Supply. Kills me to waste money on something most likely fixable but have plenty of other fixes to focus on. To all who lent a hand and brain here, I couldn't be more thankful. And I will return with plenty of ignorance in need of expert advice. Thank you!

Rookie
 
Your top link looks like it is cat 1 ball on one end, and cat 2 ball on the other end?

In any case an original Ford top link would have value to someone even if it wasn’t right for your tractor.

Paul
 
I agree that the pictured top link appears to be for a 4000 series and won't fit the smaller top link yoke of the 2000/3000 series.
 
Thanks Mobuck. I installed my smaller Tractor Supply link today. Warm winter day. Attached my york take and took it for a pre-spring spin today and all worked as it should. My inaugural laps on the Ford 3000.

Next up is a modern New Holland T4.85. Haven't determine the year yet but planning to fire it up in the coming week. And that should open an entirely new can of dumbness on my part. Thanks.
 
This just in: ditched the top link. Was cracked and rusted and a hassle. Just snagged a fresh one from Tractor Supply. Kills me to waste money on something most likely fixable but have plenty of other fixes to focus on. To all who lent a hand and brain here, I couldn't be more thankful. And I will return with plenty of ignorance in need of expert advice. Thank you!

Rookie
It's made of cast parts. If it's cracked, you're right in tossing it and buying a new one.
 
Thanks Mobuck. I installed my smaller Tractor Supply link today. Warm winter day. Attached my york take and took it for a pre-spring spin today and all worked as it should. My inaugural laps on the Ford 3000.

Next up is a modern New Holland T4.85. Haven't determine the year yet but planning to fire it up in the coming week. And that should open an entirely new can of dumbness on my part. Thanks.
This NH tractor has a category 2, 3-pt hitch.
 

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