Ford 3000 with Simms injection pump

[Dieseltech]

I should add the injection pump drive gear is not bolted to the injection pump yet.

If the gear has NOT been removed from engine it should still be meshed correctly Set the flywheel at 19 BTDC. Now install the pump and see if the three bolt gear slots are in line WITH the three hub bolt holes. If they do then complete the installation. If the three gear bolt slots DO NOT align with the hub threaded holes, engine needs turned ONE TURN, then the holes will line up since pump turns 1/2 ENGINE speed.

 

[used red MN]

Which direction does the engine spin when looking at it from the front?

Clockwise

 

[daytona 701]

The slots in the gear aligned with the bolt holes so have the fuel timing set at 19 degrees. Installed the injectors and lines to the fuel injection pump. Installed the line from the fuel tank to the fuel pump then from the fuel pump to the filter rack then from the filter rack to the injection pump. Now installing the return lines on the top of the injectors. My question is start at the front injector with the single nipple then to the middle injector then to the rear injector then to the neck on the fill tube for the fuel tank. Is that the correct sequence? Next will be oil in the crankcase then oil in the Simms injection pump. Prime the injectors then crank and start before putting the cooling system together. Don’t have the exhaust manifold on yet. Want to see if it starts and runs for a few seconds before finishing putting it back together. Next question is it ok to run like that for a minute?

 

[Dieseltech]

The slots in the gear aligned with the bolt holes so have the fuel timing set at 19 degrees. Installed the injectors and lines to the fuel injection pump. Installed the line from the fuel tank to the fuel pump then from the fuel pump to the filter rack then from the filter rack to the injection pump. Now installing the return lines on the top of the injectors. My question is start at the front injector with the single nipple then to the middle injector then to the rear injector then to the neck on the fill tube for the fuel tank. Is that the correct sequence? Next will be oil in the crankcase then oil in the Simms injection pump. Prime the injectors then crank and start before putting the cooling system together. Don’t have the exhaust manifold on yet. Want to see if it starts and runs for a few seconds before finishing putting it back together. Next question is it ok to run like that for a minute?

Yes running a minute or two will be fine. Open the throttle 1/3 and push the cold star button will bleed the injection lines faster too.

 

[daytona 701]

I have the tractor almost ready to crank to bleed the injectors. I primed up to the injection pump using the pump lever on the injection pump. I have a new battery. I need to know where to connect the positive battery cable to the starter/solenoid. I connected the positive cable to the rear stud on the starter. I connected the negative cable to the bolt holding on the starter. When I touched the negative terminal to the negative battery post it was shorted. My plan was to use a wire attached to the start terminal on the solenoid and touch it to the positive battery post to spin the engine and bleed the injector lines. Then connect the lines to the injectors and start the engine. So my question is does the positive battery cable connect to the rear of the starter or on the stud at the solenoid? I left my manual at the house this morning.

 

[daytona 701]

I moved the positive battery cable to the stud on the solenoid and touched the negative battery terminal to the negative battery post and it is still shorting. Don’t know what to do next. You alls advice will be immensely appreciated. Bruce.

 

[daytona 701]

Disconnected the positive terminal from the positive battery post. Connected the negative terminal to the negative battery post. Battery is at 12.7 volts. Measured voltage across positive battery post and positive terminal and got 12.67 volts. I’m not proficient in electrical. Does this mean the solenoid/starter is shorted?

 

[Sean in PA]

12.67 and 12.7 are so close, the difference might just be that the battery drained down slightly between the two measurements. Or you didn't put the probes on exactly the same spots and one time there was a little more dirt where the probe touched.

 

[daytona 701]

Also need to add that tractor has been sitting in the shop for 3 years.

 

[daytona 701]

12.7 volts was taken from the battery post and 12.67 volts was taken from the positive cable terminal to the positive battery post. Battery is strong and short is the full voltage. Not too familiar with starters but wondering if there is an internal short in the starter or if I connected the cables wrong or if it’s something else. Currently searching if a rebuild kit is available for the starter.

 

[Hacke]

Hope it helps.

 

[daytona 701]

I will check in the morning and let you know. The connections are behind the dual fuel filters so it’s hard to see. I should have figured this out first before I installed the fuel filter assembly. Thanks very much for your input. Bruce.

 

[Sean in PA]

a 0.03 volt drop is insignificant.

 

[daytona 701]

Hacke, used your diagram to sort the starter wiring. Works perfectly now. Removed the starter/solenoid to install the battery cable and solenoid start wire because the dual filter blocked access to the lug and terminal. Found that the starter was only attached with 2 bolts instead of 3. Rectified that. Will attempt to start and run tomorrow morning and I’ll post how that goes. Thanks for your help. Bruce.

 

[Hacke]

Great, I suppose there are enough wiring information in your shop manual, but I attached a PDF that I had stored.

Since the tractor has been sitting, the generator may need to be re-polarized:

 

[daytona 701]

This tractor has an alternator. Got the alternator pulley lined up with the water pump pulley. Now need a fan belt and a bracket to adjust fan belt tension. Then rewire with new gauge cluster. Checked out Yesterday Tractor parts website and need to make a list. Also been looking on Facebook marketplace and there are a lot of tractor projects there. Thinking I may do a few projects as time allows. It’s fun turning wrenches on these things. Thanks again for the help.

 

[daytona 701]

Disconnected the lines to bleed at the injectors and cranked the engine. No joy. Last week primed to the injection pump using the pump lever on the Simms fuel injection pump and had good pump action. Today opened the bleeder screw on the pump and used the lever but got no fuel being pumped out and no resistance on the lever. Opened the bleeder screws on the filters and without pumping got fuel dribbling out by gravity. Opened the inlet fitting to the fuel injection pump and fuel dribbles out by gravity. I’m missing something or the fuel pump is bad maybe. Any advice?

 

[daytona 701]

Talked with a mechanic friend of mine and he suggested that I continue cranking for a while with the injector lines cracked which I did. Diesel and air spewed out the lines after about thirty seconds then started getting a good strong pulse. Tightened the lines and the engine stated and ran fine after a minute.

 

[daytona 701]

Drove the tractor for the first time today. Thanks for all the help. It’s a Ford 3000 with Simms injection pump. My question today is where does the hand throttle linkage attach to the Simms injection pump? The only place looks like a lever between the pump and engine block. Can only feel it because it’s not visible. My IT shop service manual doesn’t show that detail.

 

[Dieseltech]

Drove the tractor for the first time today. Thanks for all the help. It’s a Ford 3000 with Simms injection pump. My question today is where does the hand throttle linkage attach to the Simms injection pump? The only place looks like a lever between the pump and engine block. Can only feel it because it’s not visible. My IT shop service manual doesn’t show that detail.

That's it!