Ford 3000 won't start. Run decent when I bought it.

[Hobo,NC]

I don’t want to argue with you and your proponents but something has been missed here. You’re a guy that likes to have things proven to you, here is his proof in my opinion.

It started and ran fine when he bought it. Then he found out the fuel tank had a lot of rust in it, he says it has been replaced. There is the proof to me it seemed to start and run fine, why would he lie? A lot of guys here operate in the “ideal plane” such as, I would never run my tractor with 50 psi compression so nobody else should. The compression in a cylinder with a bad valve is usually 0-30 psi. Will this be the best starting tractor when it’s setting outside and -10F, probably not? But I think it should still run as it did before. The only thing I can figure out that might help your stand point would be when the dealer was pulling it around they were not trying to start it. Instead they had Bon-Ami on the ready dumping a 1/4 cup in each cylinder and towing it 5 minutes, repeating that 3 or 4 times. If this is what they did it would explain why it won’t start now.

When I bought it from a dealer in the area it would start right up and run good "although it wouldn't pull a load."

again although it wouldn't pull a load did he lie are give a hint.

Compression 50psi why do you keep fighting this asking for a friend.

 

[sotxbill]

If the old sediment bowl was used on the new tank, did the inlet of the sediment bowl get cleaned? I have seen the inlets plugged above the valve stopping fuel flow. Not saying it is or isn't part of the problem, just something that needs to be checked, if it was not done at the time of the tank change.

A few pointers if you are not familiar with doing a compression test. I would unhook the wire from the + terminal of the coil to save the points and a possible shock. Be sure you have the throttle wide open, start with a fully charged battery and keep the battery charge up while doing compression testing. You usually need to give each cylinder 5-6 revolutions to check, watch to see when the gauge stops climbing. Same number of revolutions for each cylinder.

After completing the dry test, repeat with a bit of oil in each cylinder for a "wet" test.

As Jim is saying... your dry compression test is bad, very bad.. but if you squirt one squirt of oil into the cyl and check it again,, the change if any, in compression can tell WHY the compression is low. NORMALLY if you squirt oil into the cyl and do it again... it might raise the pressure... THIS will tell you that the rings are worn out and the oil acted as a seal and temporarily raising the compression on the wet test. IF>>> the pressure stays the same, it shows that you may/probably have a bad valve seal and need a valve job... BUT... usually only one or two cyls will have a burnt valve... NOT ALL of them will test low. In your case all cyls are low... Also.. if two adjacent cyls are low, it usually means a blown head gasket.. and I have seen those actually test around 50 lbs last year on a jd2030.. replace head gasket and now get 120 or better on all cyls... but again,,, it highly unusual to see ALL of the cyls test low.. maybe some monkey reused a head gasket?? Maybe the head did not get torqued down?? Maybe all three cyls have burnt valves exactly at the same point? Maybe some shade tree mechanic adjusted the valves at zero lash?? Maybe the air intake is very restricted and will not let the engine suck in air correctly.. Maybe the exhaust is stopped up???? Maybe the tractor set up for 30 years and the rings are stuck/ carboned up/rusted to the piston and not sealing correctly? Worked on a 51 chevy that started out with 80 to 90 lbs and would barely start before running down the battey... and now he's at 110 to 120 lbs after running it a bit and changing the oil to diesel oil to clean up the rings... He still has one cyl low and puffing smoke out the breather bad enough to drip oil. Add a quart of Lucus and send it on?? Or.. actually I will help him next month tear it down.
PROBABLY... you need rings.. but the question is how badly the cyls are worn.. if the cyls ares too out of round, or too much taper, you may need machine work or you simply break the new rings..

 

[tlmkr38]

Does it still have the original mechanical fuel pump on the front of the engine?

Supposed to have a new one on it. I got charged for it anyway.

 

[tlmkr38]

When I bought it from a dealer in the area it would start right up and run good "although it wouldn't pull a load."

again although it wouldn't pull a load did he lie are give a hint.

Compression 50psi why do you keep fighting this asking for a friend.

Because after the dealer I bought it from changed the timing it would pull a load and did for about 30 minutes. Then it acted like it wasn't getting fuel so I started cleaning everything. I understand it doesn't have enough compression to run properly now but I am curious on how it was running good and not after cleaning the fuel system. I'm looking at the future as in something to look for when I buy another one.

 

[Hobo,NC]

Because after the dealer I bought it from changed the timing it would pull a load and did for about 30 minutes. Then it acted like it wasn't getting fuel so I started cleaning everything. I understand it doesn't have enough compression to run properly now but I am curious on how it was running good and not after cleaning the fuel system. I'm looking at the future as in something to look for when I buy another one.

Heat loosens it up BTDT same problem. Diagnosis is part of elimination normally you don't do a compression test till its a last resort after you eliminate other systems. Your problem and you are not by yourself is you don't understand how any of this works. You can not over look low compression numbers like yours if you ever would like to get any work out of its got to be taken care of.

Where the internet takes you can be a long journey a well seasoned mechanic would have found your issue in a fast order there is not enoufh ink available to learn that in a post. Once I determined it has extremely low compression the ball is in your corner I am not going to give my time away thinking I can fiddle around and make it better. Fiddling around with fuel and ignition is not going to resolve your low compression numbers.

I had to go back to work I wonder if the cylinders got washed down trying to start it.

 

[soaked]

" Because after the dealer I bought it from changed the timing it would pull a load and did for about 30 minutes."

Have you checked if the distributor hold down bolt is loose or goofed up?
Has the distributor turned on its own-- leaving timing out of spec?

 

[sotxbill]

" Because after the dealer I bought it from changed the timing it would pull a load and did for about 30 minutes."

Have you checked if the distributor hold down bolt is loose or goofed up?
Has the distributor turned on its own-- leaving timing out of spec?

Probably fired it off on starter fluid??? Pulling a load? was it a plow, no it was probably just barely moving forwards in first gear.. on retarded timing..

 

[tlmkr38]

Heat loosens it up BTDT same problem. Diagnosis is part of elimination normally you don't do a compression test till its a last resort after you eliminate other systems. Your problem and you are not by yourself is you don't understand how any of this works. You can not over look low compression numbers like yours if you ever would like to get any work out of its got to be taken care of.

Where the internet takes you can be a long journey a well seasoned mechanic would have found your issue in a fast order there is not enoufh ink available to learn that in a post. Once I determined it has extremely low compression the ball is in your corner I am not going to give my time away thinking I can fiddle around and make it better. Fiddling around with fuel and ignition is not going to resolve your low compression numbers.

I had to go back to work I wonder if the cylinders got washed down trying to start it.

I understand full well that fiddling with all of that won't change my compression issues, I'm not that stupid. What I want to know ( and you haven't given any suggestions) Is why did it run good when I first got it but now has no compression and won't start. I'm gonna pull the head and check everything and see if it's valves or gasket or rings and fix it but it still doesn't tell me why.

 

[Hobo,NC]

I understand full well that fiddling with all of that won't change my compression issues, I'm not that stupid. What I want to know ( and you haven't given any suggestions) Is why did it run good when I first got it but now has no compression and won't start. I'm gonna pull the head and check everything and see if it's valves or gasket or rings and fix it but it still doesn't tell me why.

What difference does it make at this point as the warranty must have ran out are you would have took it back to'em. You will have to without a doubt believe your compression readings, if then you are without a doubt find out why they are that low. Google cylinder leakage test.

 

[used red MN]

I understand full well that fiddling with all of that won't change my compression issues, I'm not that stupid. What I want to know ( and you haven't given any suggestions) Is why did it run good when I first got it but now has no compression and won't start. I'm gonna pull the head and check everything and see if it's valves or gasket or rings and fix it but it still doesn't tell me why.

Did you try the gas in the spark plug holes?
The valves definitely need checked for the clearances being to tight. The timing needs verified as correct. I thought if it at least made an attempt to fire with gas in the cylinders that would be some encouragement to you.

 

[Hobo,NC]

Did you try the gas in the spark plug holes?

Is that going to raise the compression asking for a friend.

 

[used red MN]

Is that going to raise the compression asking for a friend.

Your friend is the curious type! Maybe rightfully so.

 

[used red MN]

I had to go back to work I wonder if the cylinders got washed down trying to start it.

And did you attempt to address this? I am not a big believer in cylinder “wash down” but in this case I would need to use the “benefit of doubt” approach and make an attempt to address it as a possibility. The wet compression test would do that(oil In cylinders). Did you do that yet?

 

[Eman85]

Did you put a little oil in the cylinder and re-try the compression test? Did you remove the valve cover and observe the valve moving and check lash to see if they close? After that I would do a leak check by putting compressed air in each cylinder with the valves closed and see where the air comes out. Many compression testers can be used to blow air in the cylinder by using just the hose and removing the Schraeder valve.

 

[Recoil]

I think pretty much everyone here has told the OP the same thing. He is low on compression and that's what is causing the issues. Reading the thread (unless I missed it), he has yet to run a wet compression test and seems to be more focused on the "why it ran and now it doesn't" versus the long term fix.

So to satisfy the OP's burning desire to know why it ran and now it isn't running can be multiple items. He messed with the timing and I'm pretty certain he messed with other things beyond that. For the compression, you don't know what kinds of additives the seller put into the oil to make it thicker to raise the compression prior to selling it. For all you know, he added multiple bottles of "Motor Honey" to the crankcase prior to you buying it. Eventually those additives break down and thin out, thus lowering your compression.

As much as it sucks, you will most likely need to put money into an engine rebuild. Trust me, I know first hand from the Ford 3000 that I bought with a slight amount of blow by, only to be used about 5 times before a slight amount of blow by became a very large amount of blow by. I still have it and I will most likely part it out vs. rebuilding the engine.

 

[showcrop]

This is a psychological syndrome that needs a name.

 

[kenbob]

You know their is a fine screen filter inside the sediment bowl? Buddy had some trouble, replaced tank, and put in new fuel pump and filters there, but didn't realize there is one inside the sediment bowl. That was the culprit.