Ford 800fuel tank removal procedure?..

[Centerline]

The fuel shutoff valve is leaking on my 850 and I'm trying to figure out what is needed to gain access to repair it..
The tractor is fitted with a Ford front end loader, which I'm hoping the hood can be removed without having to dismount the loader frame from it... And does the entire engine hood need to be removed, or just half of it?... Or can the bolts be removed from the tank allowing the tank to be lifted and turned enough to access the shutoff valve?... It's leaking between the tank and valve mating surfaces and barely has room there to fit my big hands to turn the valve on and off... Where do I Start? Thank you..

 

[KCTractors]

The fuel shutoff valve is leaking on my 850 and I'm trying to figure out what is needed to gain access to repair it..
The tractor is fitted with a Ford front end loader, which I'm hoping the hood can be removed without having to dismount the loader frame from it... And does the entire engine hood need to be removed, or just half of it?... Or can the bolts be removed from the tank allowing the tank to be lifted and turned enough to access the shutoff valve?... It's leaking between the tank and valve mating surfaces and barely has room there to fit my big hands to turn the valve on and off... Where do I Start? Thank you..

I remove the muffler to get at the fuel shut-off, but I don't know if that would be easier with the loader on it.

 

[old]

The fuel shutoff valve is leaking on my 850 and I'm trying to figure out what is needed to gain access to repair it..
The tractor is fitted with a Ford front end loader, which I'm hoping the hood can be removed without having to dismount the loader frame from it... And does the entire engine hood need to be removed, or just half of it?... Or can the bolts be removed from the tank allowing the tank to be lifted and turned enough to access the shutoff valve?... It's leaking between the tank and valve mating surfaces and barely has room there to fit my big hands to turn the valve on and off... Where do I Start? Thank you..

Depends in the loader. Some have a lot of frame work that covers the hood area etc. and others don't so hard to say. In most cases one can raise the loader arms up all the way and brace them up so they cannot fall and then you can get to the valve from going under the tank. Tight but doable

 

[MeanGene1]

I changed the tank on my 850 with a Wagner loader a while back, and was able to weasel it out after pulling the hood center and right side panel. Took a little patience, but not too bad

 

[Hemmjo]

I have removed and replaced the valve on my 860, without removing the tank. No loader, just the bare tractor. If you loosne the nuts and bolts that hold the tank down, you can lift the tank just enough to get the screws out. NOT EASY, but doable. The original had philister head screws, I replaced them with hex screws. Was much easier to get back on that it was to get it off.

Most difficult step, for me, was getting the fuel line fitting started into the valve.

Just FYI, those valves are re-buildable. You can do it better than the replacements you can buy if you use HBNR o'rings. Also called HSN or Hydrogenated Nitrile. I get mine at The Oring Store. I see that Harbor Freight has whole assortment for $12. I am not ure if the correct size is included.

 

[Hobo,NC]

The fuel shutoff valve is leaking on my 850 and I'm trying to figure out what is needed to gain access to repair it..
The tractor is fitted with a Ford front end loader, which I'm hoping the hood can be removed without having to dismount the loader frame from it... And does the entire engine hood need to be removed, or just half of it?... Or can the bolts be removed from the tank allowing the tank to be lifted and turned enough to access the shutoff valve?... It's leaking between the tank and valve mating surfaces and barely has room there to fit my big hands to turn the valve on and off... Where do I Start? Thank you..

It’s been awhile since I did this my memory may not be good. I never had a issue doing this.

I take the hood front bolts out lower front that retain the hood to the bolster and lift the hood. I then take the rear tank bracket lose at the rear to the cylinder head. I take a bolt are it may be more lose at the front and wedge the tank up. I have never found it hard to do and takes the fight out of it.

 

[Centerline]

I have removed and replaced the valve on my 860, without removing the tank. No loader, just the bare tractor. If you loosne the nuts and bolts that hold the tank down, you can lift the tank just enough to get the screws out. NOT EASY, but doable. The original had philister head screws, I replaced them with hex screws. Was much easier to get back on that it was to get it off.

Most difficult step, for me, was getting the fuel line fitting started into the valve.

Just FYI, those valves are re-buildable. You can do it better than the replacements you can buy if you use HBNR o'rings. Also called HSN or Hydrogenated Nitrile. I get mine at The Oring Store. I see that Harbor Freight has whole assortment for $12. I am not ure if the correct size is included.

Thank you. This is what I was hopeing to hear... it looked to me as if there should be room enough to lift the tank and remove the fuel line, then rotate the tank enough to remove and service the shutoff valve.. I will give it a go and see if I have the same luck as you...