Fordson major pump timing advance with different year block and heads

[Fordsoll]

Hello, I have a what I was told was a 1959 fordson power major. I am trying to adjust the engine timing and found the block to be a june 1952 block and the head to be a may 1964 head. My question is where would I time the engine at? Would the late model head affect the timing? It has a pneumatic simms injection pump under the simms logo it says SPE4A75S 647. The casting code on the head is 4E22 and the block is a 1232068. I'm assuming I should set the advance to 29 degrees but I just want to make sure that is right.

 

[Fordsoll]

It runs kinda decently at 29 degrees but is really hard to start and smokes a lot

 

[Fordsoll]

It actually starts kinda easy with the extra fuel button now that it has been running but it runs kinda sluggishly and smokes enough to choke me while i'm driving it. I think the timing is wrong still

 

[SkipperII]

I honestly don't remember how many degrees they are set at. My old boss used to tell me, "A dimes thickness of gap at the end of the slot is perfect". I changed drive couplings, out in the field, as a teenager, and that's how I set them.

 

[Majorman]

Seems you have a Fordson Bitsa, (Bitsa this, Bitsa that). Does the throttle go through the block? The only engine that was timed at 29 degrees was the very early ones with a notch to line up on the front pulley. If you have a window in the sump, first try your setting at 26 degrees. This is the setting for the later Mk 1 engines. If that improves starting just a little, then try 23 degrees which is the setting for all engines with a vacuum governed pump after 1954.

If your block is marked with a 1952 date code you do not have a Power Major Engine although some Power Major bits could have been used in any overhaul. I would be a little concerned about a 1964 head on that engine as the head bolts will be a different size.

 

[Fordsoll]

I set the degrees to 26 and it seemed to have more power and then to 23 and it was about the same maybe ran smoother but it still smokes a lot. I cracked open all of the injector lines and all of them affected the engine speed except cylinder 4. I think that is why it is smoking so bad, all of the fuel from that cylinder is just going out of the exhaust. The exhaust also isn't a constant stream of smoke too. I think the only time it puffs out smoke is when cylinder 4 exhausts the fumes. I think the problem is likely a stuck open exhaust valve, bent valve or stuck injector because if it was broken rings or hole in piston the blow by would be as bad as the smoke.

The throttle does not go through the block. And the only reason I say its a power major is because the previous owner said that.

 

[Fordsoll]

I pulled the fuel injector to clean it and the screw to set the popping pressure was loose. I also ran it with no injector in that cylinder and the tractor wasn't smoking bad anymore.

 

[Fordsoll]

I have ordered a gauge to set popping pressure as we have another tractor that could use the adjustment as well.

 

[Fordsoll]

I did all of the injectors and it still smokes the same. One thing I noticed was that there is no fuel coming out of the injectors to go back into the return line. This is with the return line off and the engine running, there is a little tiny bit of fuel coming out of 1 injector but that's it. How much should the injectors be putting out?

 

[Fordsoll]

I pressure tested the cylinders and found air leaking through the exhaust port so I pulled the head and found the exhaust valve seat to be pitted. I will see if I can lap them out.

 

[SkipperII]

Thanks for the update.

 

[tgh2x]

Hi all, I want to tag on this thread. Since it is related to an issue I have, I want to send of my injection pump to get serviced since it has a runaway problem (turns on and runs really violent, hard to shut off), most likely because a bad mechanical governor.
Before doing so I want to place everything in the most correct place, so I minimize the trouble when placing the injection pump back on.

I put my tractor Flywheel @ 23 deg mark. Also, the marks line up in the pump to the flange.
Assuming that the cylinder closest to the water pump is number 1. To me it seems like both valves are closed position since I'm able to turn the push rods freely with my fingers without much effort. Cylinder number 4, the admission valve is free, and exhaust valve is engaged (not able to turn it).

My Tractor is a 1963 model if not mistaken and it has a Simms P4596