Front hydraulic crankshaft adapter plate

[brooktre]

On the MF202 with a loader and backhoe, both were run off the front pump. There was a selector valve that would divert the hydraulic fluid from the pump to either the loader or the backhoe. The MF part number for the selector valve is 671 402 M91.

 

[Eazycheeze]

Hey guys thanks again for the help. Finally got around to it and rebuilt my water pump or I guess pressed the old impeller and new one back in.

Not I am going to get hardware too bolt the pulley on. Anyone happen to know the bolt size and length for the pump onto the 2 pre existing drilled threaded holes bottom front of rad ?


I m not home too measure and I d like to pickup the hardware too mount it tonight and I live way out of the city thanks
Thank you

 

[Jim.ME]

I am not following this. You posted you rebuilt your water pump. Pressing the impeller off, and back on, is part of the process of rebuilding a water pump.

You want hardware to bolt the water pump pulley on, I thought the water pump pulley or hub pressed on. If capscrews are involved many water pump hub capscrews are 5/16 coarse thread and one to 1-1/2 inches long depending on the hub, pulley and fan they have to pass through, and they use generally 4 bolts/capscrews (not 2) with lock washer and are located around the water pump shaft, not at the bottom front of the radiator.

A hydraulic pump might be located under the radiator at the front. But I don't see needing to press an impeller, off or on, involved with a hydraulic pump

What are you trying to do? Terms and proper names help get the right answers.

 

[Eazycheeze]

(quoted from post at 13:06:25 06/16/23)
I am not following this. You posted you rebuilt your water pump. Pressing the impeller off, and back on, is part of the process of rebuilding a water pump.

You want hardware to bolt the water pump pulley on, I thought the water pump pulley or hub pressed on. If capscrews are involved many water pump hub capscrews are 5/16 coarse thread and one to 1-1/2 inches long depending on the hub, pulley and fan they have to pass through, and they use generally 4 bolts/capscrews (not 2) with lock washer and are located around the water pump shaft, not at the bottom front of the radiator.

A hydraulic pump might be located under the radiator at the front. But I don't see needing to press an impeller, off or on, involved with a hydraulic pump

What are you trying to do? Terms and proper names help get the right answers.

Sorry I was in a rush, I reread that post and that was confusing. I was just explaining what steps I was at. So water pump is done. Now I was asking about the hardware for bolting the front mount hydraulic pump onto the axle/bottom of rad. It has 2 threaded holes in it , just curious if someone knows the bolt size as I am not home till later! You guys helped with figuring the pulley plate bolts onto crank and last now is the hydraulic pump bolts thread size and length! Sorry again that was manure typing!

 

[Jim.ME]

The two capscrews [u:325cf7892d]may[/u:325cf7892d] be 1/2-13 x 1-1/2 inches long (plus lock washers). No guarantee on the size.

 

[brooktre]

On my 1958 MF 202, the bolts that secure the front hydraulic pump are 7/16-14 thread. These secure the pump to the flange and nuts are not needed.
The length of the bolts will depend on the type of pump. My original Cessna pump had long ears and used 5" bolts. On the replacement pump the ears were thinner. 1" or 1 1/2" bolts would work.

 

[Jim.ME]

Sometimes one has to look at the set up they have to figure out what is needed. In this case I am going to say it will just be a lucky guess if either of our answers are correct, as it appears several different pump mounting arrangements were used. Some with adapters and some without.

 

[Eazycheeze]

(quoted from post at 04:54:07 06/17/23)
Sometimes one has to look at the set up they have to figure out what is needed. In this case I am going to say it will just be a lucky guess if either of our answers are correct, as it appears several different pump mounting arrangements were used. Some with adapters and some without.

Hi Jim, thanks for your information as well as the other person! The length of bolt needed I can manage that I was just curious about the threads however I did not realize the threads changed , figured they d be the same. So I will have to locate my thread sizings and test before. Thanks again!

 

[Eazycheeze]

(quoted from post at 04:54:07 06/17/23)
Sometimes one has to look at the set up they have to figure out what is needed. In this case I am going to say it will just be a lucky guess if either of our answers are correct, as it appears several different pump mounting arrangements were used. Some with adapters and some without.

So got the bolts and you guys were bang on with threads! Now, I mounted the crankshaft pulley however I am unsure if it s mounted the correct way because when I put the shaft through the Center axle hub too the pulley. I cannot thread the shaft(I know it s right loosy lefty righty) the pulley adapter Center seems slightly too low and my shaft hits about an 1/8 over the Center.

Now before I go and loosen the three bolts holding it to crank which took a while and was tight, was wondering if the pulley is the proper orientation. Hopefully something isn t bent out of true center

The

pulley is mounted with the flare going outward towards axle hub. I believe this too be correct and not inwards towards motor. Maybe I did not right the plate correctly and pulled it upwards too much on 1 or 2 of the bolts

 

[Jim.ME]

Jack the front and check for wear in the front axle pin and bushing area.

 

[Eazycheeze]

(quoted from post at 03:33:14 06/27/23)
Jack the front and check for wear in the front axle pin and bushing area.

Thanks Jim I took a peak and it was terrible with movements on the entire axle. Ended tackling in and I got the axle out, I got the pin out that holds the pipe but damn that s in there hard. Have to make a plan how to press out the tube or slam it out. From the looks of it the pipe is in good condition but I don t see any bushings so my axle was able to go forward backwards up and down.

So now too order bushings and whatever else doesn t match up to agco book.

Any tips on pulling the tube out? I ll be doing some research if I can find anything on better ways

 

[Jim.ME]

I am not following your description of having to remove a pipe.

There should be a bushing, pressed in the front axle support, at each end of the axle pivot pin where the grease fittings are.

There is a tapered lock pin that hold the hollow axle pivot pin in the axle. The pivot pin is supposed to be tight and not move in the axle. It may take heat and pullers to get the pivot pin free of the axle.

You say you got the axle out. That would require removing the lock pin and the hollow axle pivot pin to get the axle out of the front support. Or did you drop the front support, with the axle in it, from the engine and are calling that getting the axle out? Are you calling the axle pivot pin a pipe?

This post was edited by Jim.ME on 06/28/2023 at 03:48 am.

 

[Eazycheeze]

(quoted from post at 03:45:56 06/28/23) I am not following your description of having to remove a pipe.

There should be a bushing, pressed in the front axle support, at each end of the axle pivot pin where the grease fittings are.

There is a tapered lock pin that hold the hollow axle pivot pin in the axle. The pivot pin is supposed to be tight and not move in the axle. It may take heat and pullers to get the pivot pin free of the axle.

You say you got the axle out. That would require removing the lock pin and the hollow axle pivot pin to get the axle out of the front support. Or did you drop the front support, with the axle in it, from the engine and are calling that getting the axle out? Are you calling the axle pivot pin a pipe?

This post was edited by Jim.ME on 06/28/2023 at 03:48 am.

Hey Jim, yes by removing the axle I meant with the support off the tractor. The lock pin I managed too remove which was not loose at all with an air hammer on the nut. So I will need a new nut but the lock pin is usable still.

The pipe is the hallow pivot tube that runs through and allows a shaft for a pump. I feel like that hallow pin is going to be hell.

Also the axle support can move any direction on the hallow tube as I have yet to find a bushing. Nothing at all like the previous owner remove or they got destroyed.

Now I assume to remove the hallow pin it must come towards the front of tractor?

The only hardware I see is the snap ring at the front followed by a thick washer maybe a "thrust washer" and some sort of washer that has flared edges towards the engine assuming this may be remains of a bushing that doesn t exist. According to agco I should have shims which aren t there. I also have a big rear washer between the axle and axle support on the backside closest too engine as per agco.

Now my question is, any tips for removing the hallow pivot pin?

Secondly if I am missing both bushings and say the tube isn t worn out as it appears good, could I get lucky and press or tap 2 new bushings in WITHOUT removing the hallow pivot pin ?

As stated the axle support wifggles with lots of room in any direction and I can see light through the sides of the hallow pivot and the support which leads me to think I could get lucky.

As for the shins that are missing, I am not sure how available they are around me, could I use some large washers if I can track down a thickness? Thank you again!

 

[Jim.ME]

(quoted from post at 09:52:50 06/28/23)

(quoted from post at 03:45:56 06/28/23) I am not following your description of having to remove a pipe.

There should be a bushing, pressed in the front axle support, at each end of the axle pivot pin where the grease fittings are.

There is a tapered lock pin that hold the hollow axle pivot pin in the axle. The pivot pin is supposed to be tight and not move in the axle. It may take heat and pullers to get the pivot pin free of the axle.

You say you got the axle out. That would require removing the lock pin and the hollow axle pivot pin to get the axle out of the front support. Or did you drop the front support, with the axle in it, from the engine and are calling that getting the axle out? Are you calling the axle pivot pin a pipe?

This post was edited by Jim.ME on 06/28/2023 at 03:48 am.

Hey Jim, yes by removing the axle I meant with the support off the tractor. The lock pin I managed too remove which was not loose at all with an air hammer on the nut. So I will need a new nut but the lock pin is usable still.

The pipe is the hallow pivot tube that runs through and allows a shaft for a pump. I feel like that hallow pin is going to be hell.

Also the axle support can move any direction on the hallow tube as I have yet to find a bushing. Nothing at all like the previous owner remove or they got destroyed.

Now I assume to remove the hallow pin it must come towards the front of tractor?

The only hardware I see is the snap ring at the front followed by a thick washer maybe a "thrust washer" and some sort of washer that has flared edges towards the engine assuming this may be remains of a bushing that doesn t exist. According to agco I should have shims which aren t there. I also have a big rear washer between the axle and axle support on the backside closest too engine as per agco.

Now my question is, any tips for removing the hallow pivot pin?

Secondly if I am missing both bushings and say the tube isn t worn out as it appears good, could I get lucky and press or tap 2 new bushings in WITHOUT removing the hallow pivot pin ?

As stated the axle support wifggles with lots of room in any direction and I can see light through the sides of the hallow pivot and the support which leads me to think I could get lucky.

As for the shins that are missing, I am not sure how available they are around me, could I use some large washers if I can track down a thickness? Thank you again!

You may need to take the axle, still in the support, somewhere and have the pivot pin pressed out to separate them, if you don't have provisions to remove it. Some dollars spent to have it pressed out at a shop may well prevent a lot of lost time and possible damage to components as you try things you think might work. And even after a lot of trying you might still have to pay a shop to get it out.

I would not try just putting new bushings in without removing the pin, to separate the axle from the support. You don't know the condition of the pin where the bushings ride. If the pin is bad the bushings won't last. You don't know if there are remnants of the old bushings still in the support which could distort or prevent fully installing new bushings. You don't know if the bushing bores in the support are worn and need repair to hold new bushings. You should properly shim the axle to the support which would need the pin out.

Use the part numbers to search for the required parts, many places may have them. Contact your Massey dealer for the parts. There are many online MF dealers you can order from and have parts shipped to you. If your local MF dealer isn't one of the ecommerce ones, call them. They may still order and ship to you if you don't want to chase to the dealership.

 

[Eazycheeze]

Hey jim, sounds good thanks for the info. I will starting tracking parts and see if someone is able to press it out for me . I ve read a few posts of people going through hell too remove the hollow pin. Thanks again and will update later.

I was just hoping to have a loader not more work aha!