Gas fuel filter for rusty tank

[Mtjohnso]

Picked up an IH350 Utility that had set a while.
Carb was dry and rusty as was the fuel tank.
Pull carb and soaked in carb cleaner snd then in ultra sonic cleaner and blown out good. New carb rebuilt kit in it. Adjusted carb to settings in manual.
Used 30% vinegar to clean out the fuel tank. A lot of rust came out. Rinse and dried it good.
Put a Autozone in-line filter on it.
Problem-getting rust particles in to the needle valve seat which blocks fuel flow or limits it which also prevents the needle valve from closing completely. Have had the carb off 3 or 4 times cleaning and blowing out. Finally got the tractor to run good. Drove it around the yard and up the road with plenty of power. However after I shut the tractor off gas soon started pouring out the throat of the carb.
So the needle valve is not shutting off. The needle valve seat and needle are new.
Is there a better filter to use than the cheap inline ones?
Float is set correctly.

 

[rustred]

you will not get particles past an inline filter , so I don’t know what type u have. Plus they are a one way thing with in and out marked or with an arrow.

 

[used red MN]

Are you using a sediment bowl? If not they are very helpful in filtering out this type of foreign material.

 

[rustred]

And if u have a sediment bowel with out the screen that can be your problem. Some of the finer solids will make it to the carb. But the carb in-line screen should catch that also. And those really really fines will flow right through. As u see lots of times on the bottom of the bowel. And also put a 3/4 inch piece of 3/8 brass or steel line into the sediment bowel inlet. U need to drill the inlet the proper size then tap the line in so you have 1/2 inch stick up. That’s the best fix for a dirty stubborn tank.

 

[Willow Lane]

You cleaned the tank and the carb, what about the steel fuel line in between. I assume it's all steel except where you put in the filter.

 

[caterpillar guy]

Like said the filter is not letting dirt though. It is coming from down stream. Now I would pull the tank and clean it out and get the rust out of the tank by any of several methods. 1 put some nuts in and tumble it tied to a rear wheel and drive around with it to get the rust knocked loose, 2 wash it out then use a rust reducer like evaporust or other like chemical,3 change tank,4 soak in a solution of your choice like vinegar or such. ME I would soak it in some fuel oil to soak the rust loose and not cause more rust to develop as it did. then wash out tank with a solvent like mineral spirits or such. After it is clean then washout sediment bowl and put back in clean fuel line and screen at carb problem should then be solved. Keep tank full of fuel when setting will help with not having rust return since it will reduce condensation in the tank. Running dry and emptying tank is the fastest way to get rust to return in tank.

 

[Fritz Maurer]

There should be a filter in the inlet to the carburetor.

 

[Tgrasher]

Could be your float is touching the wall of the carburetor bowl, check for side to side play and adjust. Every gas tractor I have has a 1/8" nptm x 1/8" nptf ball valve to shut the gas off and on. Problem solved, now all I have to do is remember to do it, but seriously it becomes part of the routine like turning the key.

 

[504]

For an inline fuel filter buy a 3/8 line size and clamp it down hard on your 5/16 line. The small filters can restrict the flow on a clean tank the oversized filter just works better. Pick up an old liner from a mig welder (work,welding supply) and use it like a sewer snake to clean the inside of your steel gas lines (take them off) works great and the old liners should be free.

 

[Geo-TH,In]

Picked up an IH350 Utility that had set a while.
Carb was dry and rusty as was the fuel tank.
Pull carb and soaked in carb cleaner snd then in ultra sonic cleaner and blown out good. New carb rebuilt kit in it. Adjusted carb to settings in manual.
Used 30% vinegar to clean out the fuel tank. A lot of rust came out. Rinse and dried it good.
Put a Autozone in-line filter on it.
Problem-getting rust particles in to the needle valve seat which blocks fuel flow or limits it which also prevents the needle valve from closing completely. Have had the carb off 3 or 4 times cleaning and blowing out. Finally got the tractor to run good. Drove it around the yard and up the road with plenty of power. However after I shut the tractor off gas soon started pouring out the throat of the carb.
So the needle valve is not shutting off. The needle valve seat and needle are new.
Is there a better filter to use than the cheap inline ones?
Float is set correctly.

I haven't had good luck using some inline paper filters. They will vapor lock if gas gets warm or the gas in tank gets low. Those filters work best if you have a fuel pump.
I replaced those inline filters with lawn mower inline filters that use only a screen.
I ended up replacing the tank on my Jubilee. I bought a tank off YT. I couldn't find a tank for my Farmall C so I use lawn mower inline filters.
You can get anything you want at Amazon.

AUTOKAY Lawn Mower 1/4" Inline Gas Fuel Filter Compatible with 298090 298090S Toro 42-5240 56-6360 John Deere AM107314 LG298090 LG298090S PT4265 Pack of 10 $7.99​

I use these screen filters on both my Farmall C and Jubilee. They work fine.

 

[RedMVa]

I haven't had good luck using some inline paper filters. They will vapor lock if gas gets warm or the gas in tank gets low. Those filters work best if you have a fuel pump.
I replaced those inline filters with lawn mower inline filters that use only a screen.
I ended up replacing the tank on my Jubilee. I bought a tank off YT. I couldn't find a tank for my Farmall C so I use lawn mower inline filters.
You can get anything you want at Amazon.

AUTOKAY Lawn Mower 1/4" Inline Gas Fuel Filter Compatible with 298090 298090S Toro 42-5240 56-6360 John Deere AM107314 LG298090 LG298090S PT4265 Pack of 10 $7.99​

Those filters are too small for farmalls, I use the Napa 3032 (5/16) or 3033 (3/8) they filter fines well. Stand pipe an inch on tank outlet too cause I don’t use sediment bowls. Those fines will stick to the rubber tipped needle and it won’t seat. But you still need to get tank as clean as possible

 

[MARK ROBKE]

My 300u which has been in our family since it was 1 year old, has never sat for long, or out in the weather much. I occasionally see rust in the sediment bowl, but the screen prevents the rust from going to the carb. If or when I notice a small build up in the bowl, I just remove and clean it. If you don't have a screen, I would get one, and a new gasket. Mark.

 

[wore out]

Picked up an IH350 Utility that had set a while.
Carb was dry and rusty as was the fuel tank.
Pull carb and soaked in carb cleaner snd then in ultra sonic cleaner and blown out good. New carb rebuilt kit in it. Adjusted carb to settings in manual.
Used 30% vinegar to clean out the fuel tank. A lot of rust came out. Rinse and dried it good.
Put a Autozone in-line filter on it.
Problem-getting rust particles in to the needle valve seat which blocks fuel flow or limits it which also prevents the needle valve from closing completely. Have had the carb off 3 or 4 times cleaning and blowing out. Finally got the tractor to run good. Drove it around the yard and up the road with plenty of power. However after I shut the tractor off gas soon started pouring out the throat of the carb.
So the needle valve is not shutting off. The needle valve seat and needle are new.
Is there a better filter to use than the cheap inline ones?
Float is set correctly.

These in-tank screens that insert into the sediment bowl inlet are a sort of "crutch" to help get by until the tank can be cleaned and sealed.

 

[560Dennis]

I stack the wix filters in series, first one fill up ,then switch them out.
Tempor set till the rust tank is clean and coated .

 

[MeanGene1]

A simple way to get the rust and crud out is to get a few of those big clear inline filters, then an electric pump downstream of the filter, with the outlet hose stuck in the filler neck, pumping the clean gas with some Seafoam back into the tank, a long brush to swizzle the tank as it circulates. Change out the filter when is gets full. Repeat, repeat

 

[old]

Picked up an IH350 Utility that had set a while.
Carb was dry and rusty as was the fuel tank.
Pull carb and soaked in carb cleaner snd then in ultra sonic cleaner and blown out good. New carb rebuilt kit in it. Adjusted carb to settings in manual.
Used 30% vinegar to clean out the fuel tank. A lot of rust came out. Rinse and dried it good.
Put a Autozone in-line filter on it.
Problem-getting rust particles in to the needle valve seat which blocks fuel flow or limits it which also prevents the needle valve from closing completely. Have had the carb off 3 or 4 times cleaning and blowing out. Finally got the tractor to run good. Drove it around the yard and up the road with plenty of power. However after I shut the tractor off gas soon started pouring out the throat of the carb.
So the needle valve is not shutting off. The needle valve seat and needle are new.
Is there a better filter to use than the cheap inline ones?
Float is set correctly.

I've never had any luck with any type of in line fuel filter. I use a deep sediment bowl and a screen at the top of them and keep track of how it looks and I keep it cleaned out. I also mix a quart of ATF with the 3-5 gal of gas so it tends to clean the tank some

 

[kenbob]

I know at least 2 people who had carb run over and it ended up being the float dragging on the carb body. No way to see that but on my carb their was scuffing where the fload drug on the carb bowl housing. I spread them out a little at the bottom and no trouble since. Guy on our tractor ride this summer told the same story,