Governor lags when tractor is stressed (8N Ford)

My governor is new. My carburetor is new.

I have put up with this because my 8N Ford runs great and starts perfectly, but it is a nuisanc.

When I am mowing or doing anything, even letting the clutch out, if the tractor is under load the governor waits an extra second before it responds. When this happens I have to press the clutch or the tractor will die. I let the clutch back out at the same time the governor lets the tractor throttle up and everything is fine. If forget to “do my little dance”, then the tractor will die. Do I need to add or remove shims from the governor? Is this a linkage problem? Thanks.
 
This may or may not help - I rebuilt one of my carburetors, including a new throttle shaft bushing. Throttle shaft did go through the new bushing, after some "reaming" work with a 1/4" diameter rod. The shaft was still tight, and the governor was not able to overcome the additional friction, so would "stick" at times. Moving the throttle lever would cause the governor to respond, but with a lag. I had to order a real reamer, size 0.002" oversize (0.252" diameter). Used the reamer and the throttle shaft now turns freely, and the governor has no issue holding speed.

Bent or rubbing linkage, or lack of lubrication at the end joints (a little rust, maybe?) could cause a sticking condition. A loose governor spring or arms can cause the same issues. Ensure everything has no side slop and moves freely throughout the travel. I also had to shim the throttle arm on the governor due to side-to-side slop; too much friction from the twisting binding when moving the throttle. zuhnc
 
I’m sure my carburetor is from “the land of almost right”. But it works great.

Are the shims purpose in the governor to just increase the throttle resting speed at the higher RPMs when the governor is engaged?

Or when the RPMs decrease under load and the governor disengages (ball bearings go back to their low RPM state near the shaft) the carburetor throttle is pushed open. The number of shims determine the throttle speed at low RPM?
 
I am wondering if loosening the spring “2” in the picture will allow the governor to react quicker to an RPM drop. Right now, I still have the lag.


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So maybe I need to tighten the spring? Would this cause the trottle to open faster as the balls (weights) move to their at rest position because of a drop in RPMs?
 
I’m sure my carburetor is from “the land of almost right”. But it works great.

Are the shims purpose in the governor to just increase the throttle resting speed at the higher RPMs when the governor is engaged?

Or when the RPMs decrease under load and the governor disengages (ball bearings go back to their low RPM state near the shaft) the carburetor throttle is pushed open. The number of shims determine the throttle speed at low RPM?
The shims stop the "cup" from moving so far rearward that the balls can move outward and contact the case.

Dunno what you are basing your statement, "carburetor works great" on, but I think it's FAR more likely that that carburetor and/or spark advance is causing your perceived sluggish governor than the governor itself.

Governor balls with flat spots worn on them, rings worn in the governor cup, or a flat area worn on the fingers of the governor fork can affect smooth, quick operation of the governor, but you state the your governor is "new", which should rule out those issues.
 
Interesting idea. I could see that happening. So maybe I could retard the distributor to give more low end power?

Another way to repeat my problem…
I can be mowing at full power, No missing, engine running great. Then I get into some high, thick grass that starts to pull down the RPMs. The governor does not react and the RPMs continue to be pulled down. Now the engine starts to die. I press the clutch (sometimes even pull the choke). After a pause with the engine trying to die, it will recover and the governor revs the engine more than I was mowing at in the first place. I can ease the clutch out and continue on with my mowing. Sometimes the process repeats itself immediately. Other times, I stop, put the tractor in neutral, and tease the clutch out to get my mower RPMs up. Then I put in gear again, tease the clutch out as the governor will increase the power and off I go.

I have used my tractor for over 40 years so I’m pretty familiar with its characteristics while I’m using it. I never had this problem until I replaced the governor, so I guess that’s why I’m thinking the some adjustment of the governor is my problem.
 
Interesting idea. I could see that happening. So maybe I could retard the distributor to give more low end power?

Another way to repeat my problem…
I can be mowing at full power, No missing, engine running great. Then I get into some high, thick grass that starts to pull down the RPMs. The governor does not react and the RPMs continue to be pulled down. Now the engine starts to die. I press the clutch (sometimes even pull the choke). After a pause with the engine trying to die, it will recover and the governor revs the engine more than I was mowing at in the first place. I can ease the clutch out and continue on with my mowing. Sometimes the process repeats itself immediately. Other times, I stop, put the tractor in neutral, and tease the clutch out to get my mower RPMs up. Then I put in gear again, tease the clutch out as the governor will increase the power and off I go.

I have used my tractor for over 40 years so I’m pretty familiar with its characteristics while I’m using it. I never had this problem until I replaced the governor, so I guess that’s why I’m thinking the some adjustment of the governor is my problem.
Some old notes may be of use to you
 

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