Have I been using HF carbon pile battery tester wrong?

[Fred Werring]

The instructions say

Make sure the Load Knob (C) is in the off position. Connect the red (positive) Cable

Clamp (A) to the positive terminal (+) on the 12 V battery. See photo on page 4.

Connect the black (negative) Cable Clamp (B) to the negative terminal (–) on the battery.

Turn the Load Knob (C) clockwise until the DC ammeter reads 1/2 the Cold Crank Amp (CCA) rating

Maintain load for 15 seconds to simulate an actual load on the battery.
After 15 seconds has passed, the unit will sound with a beep.

View the DC Volts Meter and read the battery condition. Refer to the "Battery Condition Analysis" section on the next page.

Turn the Load Knob (C) counterclockwise to Off, and remove the Cable Clamps from the battery

So you're looking at the battery voltage while under load to determine if the battery is good. At least that's the way I've been doing it. For years.

Tripped across a youtube video, they're turning the load off, then looking at the battery voltage.
I thought 'this can't be right' , so checked out a few more videos AND THEY ALL REMOVED THE LOAD BEFORE CHECKING VOLTAGE.

So they have me second guessing myself...which way is right?

 

[Jim.ME]

Read the battery voltage right after it beeps, then turn the load knob counterclockwise to off. You want to see the voltage the battery is holding under load.

 

[BarnyardEngineering]

Doesn't matter according to the experts here. It's a worthless tool that tells you nothing no matter how you use it. You need to spend a whole lot more money on a proper battery tester to get any useful information.

 

[Fred Werring]

Read the battery voltage right after it beeps, then turn the load knob counterclockwise to off. You want to see the voltage the battery is holding under load.

That's the way I've been doing it, don't know why I let those you tubers get in my head. Thanks

 

[JMOR]

That's the way I've been doing it, don't know why I let those you tubers get in my head. Thanks

agreed!

 

[will-max dairy]

There might be some information in both measurements: what the battery dips to, and what it immediately recovers to.

 

[Sberry]

This thing pays for itself bout every time I use it. Its one of my super pic best buys of all time.

 

[Sberry]

I have other equipment and have tested this, its super accurate.

 

[john in la]

That's the way I've been doing it, don't know why I let those you tubers get in my head. Thanks

Sadly the only education you need to post a video on youtube is knowing how to post a video.
Knowlege of the content of the video is not needed.

 

[Fred Werring]

Sadly the only education you need to post a video on youtube is knowing how to post a video.
Knowlege of the content of the video is not needed.

I think that's what threw me, was the 3 or 4 I looked at ALL did it wrong.
Made me wonder if I was the wrong one for the last 15 years or so I've owned the tester.

 

[john in la]

I think that's what threw me, was the 3 or 4 I looked at ALL did it wrong.
Made me wonder if I was the wrong one for the last 15 years or so I've owned the tester.

Several videos on YT that explain how to change the trans fluid on a Chevy Cruze or Trax.
(My wife has a Trax)
Out of all of them only seen one that tells you need to check oil level at a certain trans temp.
The Chevy service manual warns checking the fluid at the wrong temp will either over or under fill the trans.
Both are bad for the life of the trans.

 

[Hobo,NC]

The instructions say

Make sure the Load Knob (C) is in the off position. Connect the red (positive) Cable

Clamp (A) to the positive terminal (+) on the 12 V battery. See photo on page 4.

Connect the black (negative) Cable Clamp (B) to the negative terminal (–) on the battery.

Turn the Load Knob (C) clockwise until the DC ammeter reads 1/2 the Cold Crank Amp (CCA) rating

Maintain load for 15 seconds to simulate an actual load on the battery.
After 15 seconds has passed, the unit will sound with a beep.

View the DC Volts Meter and read the battery condition. Refer to the "Battery Condition Analysis" section on the next page.

Turn the Load Knob (C) counterclockwise to Off, and remove the Cable Clamps from the battery

So you're looking at the battery voltage while under load to determine if the battery is good. At least that's the way I've been doing it. For years.

Tripped across a youtube video, they're turning the load off, then looking at the battery voltage.
I thought 'this can't be right' , so checked out a few more videos AND THEY ALL REMOVED THE LOAD BEFORE CHECKING VOLTAGE.

So they have me second guessing myself...which way is right?

View attachment 106493

Download a manual for a Sun Vat 40. You do like to see how fast the voltage recovers if it passes a load test and recovers fast to 12.6 its a good'n and fully charges. Its never a good thing to see a battery recover slow are not recover full voltage. Its just a little thing you look for. I feel like I have done a million load test this is how I do it. I will hit it hard at haft CCA probably no more that 5 seconds if it passes I look for how quick it recovers. Next I load test at 200 amps for 15 seconds anything below 10.5V its heading down hill it does not pack a punch.

If I am looking at a 4 year old battery and my customer depends on me to keep their vehicle in top notch condition are I have an issue I will stand hard on my first load test of 15 sec. A bad battery is gonna jump right out at ya, modern vehicles are so efficient they don't need a long grind. If its a no complaint all looks well I hit it with a 5 second test and move on with life. The best way to build a understanding is to load test good batteries and not wait till there is a doubt. I have no idea the quality of that HF tester its a knock off of a Christie.

 

[Sberry]

It works perfect. Had it near 25 years and have checked it against my "good" meters.

 

[Texasmark]

This thing pays for itself bout every time I use it. Its one of my super pic best buys of all time. View attachment 106507

I've been using that machine for years. Never gave me a bad result. My normal test is to tighten the load and watch the amperes and volts. I tighten till I get 300 amperes and if the voltmeter is reading 10v or more I have a good battery. If not time to replace.

Just yesterday I was going to use my 25 hp tractor. Get on it hit the key and click, click, etc. In short, I get out the charger and it drops down to single amperage digits in just a few minutes......hmmmmm not good. Get out the load checker and with the load open, the voltage was 12.7v. I didn't get to 25 amperes and the terminal voltage was zero. What's funny is that the tractor started just fine several days ago and yesterday, dead as a door nail. Checked the age and it was 3 years. Off to the auto parts store, new battery, installed, hit the starter and immediate zoooooooooom. Back in business.