Help me understand power beyond/auxiliary hydraulics

[BigJeeps]

Long story- I have an International 284 Diesel. Made a dumb move last year forgot to put antifreeze back in when flushing radiator, got early freezing weather and cracked block. I picked up another 284 diesel for possible engine swap. The new tractor had been sitting quite a while so.when I got it running the hydraulics for front snow blade were leaking everywhere. I thought I could hook the remote inlet and outlet hoses together and bypass the remote to test run the tractor but now the 3 pt hitch raisedall the way up and the hyd pump seems to get hot to the touch in a hurry. After doing some searching and it seems I need a remote valve with a special power beyond plug in it to function correctly. This also leads me to more questions and confusion because my other tractor has a loader and 3 hoses plumbed into the power beyond block.
If someone could explain in basic terms how these hydraulics work it would be much appreciated. I have moderate experience turning wrenches and not afraid to tackle a project but I want to make sure I get the right parts and hopefully not mess anything up. I will try to attach a couple pics. Sorry for the long post. Any and all help is appreciated!

 

[caterpillar guy]

Typically a power beyong plate goes on the outside of the valve stack. This has a port for a pressure line to fasten on to for remote places like a valve to run a loader without having to use the rear remotes valves so they are free to use for lifting or running other functions behind you without having to disconnect a loader circuit to work an implement if this makes sense to you. It will also have a separate return back to the case someplace like a port or fitting at the side of the case down closer to the bottom or may even be a Tee at the drain plug for it. Our 574 with loader has one on it and return goes in the right side via a port or fitting there. It can be just a hose from line end to line end sort of like a radiator hose for length or it can be a full length hose from the valve to the tractors case. IT sounds like you are deadheading the oil from the pump causing your hot pump problem. You need to quit running the tractor till you find out what is causing your heat problem. It will ruin the hyraulic system if you continue to run it. starting to test run is fine just not to drive around.

 

[jm.]

Caterpillar guy has done a very good job of explaining it. You say your valve has 3 lines, you may
not have a power beyond valve that can be simply in out and drain or a place for the fluid to go
when the cylinder reaches end of stroke. I am thinking you hooking together may no be a good
connection you may have a blockage there, but at caterpillar guy points out DO NOT run that
tractor like you have it. Un hook the two and remove what plumbing you have on the remotes, just
hang a hose in a open bucket and see what happens. SIMPLY put power beyond is just that power on
down the way from the valve, as he say in stacked valves it is normally a separate stack but in
monoblock valves it is built in.

 

[geok]

This post was edited by geok on 10/25/2023 at 07:27 am.

 

[BigJeeps]

I guess what I'm asking is how a power beyond specific remote works and is there any way I can test run the tractor without buying a new remote or finding an original cover plate and removing the power beyond plate? The power beyond plate only has 2 lines coming out of it and the directional control valve on it has no ports for a return to tank.

I have not run. The tractor more than a few minutes at most and don't plan to start in again until I figure the hydraulics out.

 

[geok]

What I see in the pictures is an access plate and a spring centering control valve. I don't see a problem with the set up . It simply diverts oil to another or extra
external valve like you have then returns the flow back to tractors system. Disconnect one of the hoses on the plate to determine which is a return line by cranking
engine. Do not start engine. Route that line back to the hydraulic reservoir. Like a filler plug.

 

[BigJeeps]

That control valve is shot, leaking from the body. I'm pretty sure it was always set up this way other than the 2 ports I have plugged that ran to the lift cylinder for the snow blade. I pulled it apart and cleaned it up with new orings but the spool was badly corroded and pitted. I think maybe this allowed the fluid to push past the lands and cause the leaking. Is it possible that the pitting on the spool is allowing the valve to flow both ways and fight itself? It does make sense to me now that I can find the pressure side of the pb plate and plumb it back to the tank. I'm still not understanding how the valve works when plumbed up in its current configuration. If I were to buy a new control valve and add the additional power beyond plug, how does it function without plumbing a hose back to the tank.
Thanks again for your help!

 

[geok]

The plate is just a block that is machined out and threaded to divert oil to an out side valve. Then the oil returns to the plate to continue to the three point control
valve. The control valve you mentioned that is leaking probably just needs a couple of orings installed on the spool.

 

[BarnyardEngineering]

Seems like all you would need to do worst case scenario is identify the in and out lines to that valve, and plumb them together.

 

[BigJeeps]

I have already tried coupling the lines together, there are only 2 and that did not work. When I had the valve apart I did replace orings but it has a lot of issues going on I side including spool corroded, detent ball has worn major groove and the body where oring sits is messed up. Some one has definitely been in it before. It will for sure need a new valve if this tractor isn't parted out.