Home Brewed Align Bore For Front Axle Bushing

[ScottNC]

This post follows a previous one inquiring about lubing the front axle pivot pin. As previously mentioned my 885's front axle pivot has never taken grease. Took advantage of the front loader being off and investigated to find the grease passages packed slid with dirt and the front bushing completely gone, the pin was into the frame about .070" worth. The rear bushing was intact but worn. The pin is decent. The front axle is now out, the damage assessed and a plan in the works for oversizing the front pivot for a bushing to return the hole to standard. This whole operation would probably make Rube Goldberg proud.

Briefly, my biggest concern is how to drive and feed the 1" bar I'll be using as a boring bar. A hand held 1/2" drill sounds sketchy but is the only thing I have come up with. A collar with a set screw will be on the bar to act as a stop or depth of cut control. The front bar support will be a half inch plate hanging from the front end loader frame with a guide bushing tack welded in (this bushing will correct, hopefully, any misalignment between the loader frame and the pivot pin hole). I'm thinking of placing a feeler gauge between the collar and the guide bushing, snugging the collars set screw and then remove the feeler gauge, say a prayer and trigger the drill.

I'm open to suggestions.

 

[matthies]

This post follows a previous one inquiring about lubing the front axle pivot pin. As previously mentioned my 885's front axle pivot has never taken grease. Took advantage of the front loader being off and investigated to find the grease passages packed slid with dirt and the front bushing completely gone, the pin was into the frame about .070" worth. The rear bushing was intact but worn. The pin is decent. The front axle is now out, the damage assessed and a plan in the works for oversizing the front pivot for a bushing to return the hole to standard. This whole operation would probably make Rube Goldberg proud.

Briefly, my biggest concern is how to drive and feed the 1" bar I'll be using as a boring bar. A hand held 1/2" drill sounds sketchy but is the only thing I have come up with. A collar with a set screw will be on the bar to act as a stop or depth of cut control. The front bar support will be a half inch plate hanging from the front end loader frame with a guide bushing tack welded in (this bushing will correct, hopefully, any misalignment between the loader frame and the pivot pin hole). I'm thinking of placing a feeler gauge between the collar and the guide bushing, snugging the collars set screw and then remove the feeler gauge, say a prayer and trigger the drill.

I'm open to suggestions.

JB weld will do the same thing with less work. 20 years on this repair with feeding cattle every day of the year, 4020/148 loader.

 

[wore out]

This post follows a previous one inquiring about lubing the front axle pivot pin. As previously mentioned my 885's front axle pivot has never taken grease. Took advantage of the front loader being off and investigated to find the grease passages packed slid with dirt and the front bushing completely gone, the pin was into the frame about .070" worth. The rear bushing was intact but worn. The pin is decent. The front axle is now out, the damage assessed and a plan in the works for oversizing the front pivot for a bushing to return the hole to standard. This whole operation would probably make Rube Goldberg proud.

Briefly, my biggest concern is how to drive and feed the 1" bar I'll be using as a boring bar. A hand held 1/2" drill sounds sketchy but is the only thing I have come up with. A collar with a set screw will be on the bar to act as a stop or depth of cut control. The front bar support will be a half inch plate hanging from the front end loader frame with a guide bushing tack welded in (this bushing will correct, hopefully, any misalignment between the loader frame and the pivot pin hole). I'm thinking of placing a feeler gauge between the collar and the guide bushing, snugging the collars set screw and then remove the feeler gauge, say a prayer and trigger the drill.

I'm open to suggestions.

I've used hand-held electric pipe threader for such operations, they turn slowly and have a LONG handle, making them easy to control.

On the other hand, check out the link below.

https://www.farmshow.com/a_article.php?aid=3003

There's LOTS of eweTube vids on the topic.

 

[ScottNC]

Wore Out: Did a search for "hand held pipe threader", looks like a much better tool for the job than a half inch drill. Can't think of anyone I know directly that'd be a good candidate to have one but maybe a friend of the friend . . . Monday I'll call the local tool rental as well.

 

[wore out]

Wore Out: Did a search for "hand held pipe threader", looks like a much better tool for the job than a half inch drill. Can't think of anyone I know directly that'd be a good candidate to have one but maybe a friend of the friend . . . Monday I'll call the local tool rental as well.

I have a "Greenlee" I inherited from my late Uncle, I'd hate to think what a new one of those would cost now!

Harbor Freight has a set with the electric driver some dies for $229.

If you DO buy or borrow one, it will be set up to accept and drive a pipe die, you will need to make an adapter to transition from that to a way to drive your boring bar.

 

[stevieb49829]

I built the boring bar, with the guide bearings, turned one end down to 1/2". I was ready to build a fixture to clamp the drill to a set of screws to forward the driven bar into the hole. Then when I roughcut the holes I was making, they came out perfect diameter for the bushings, and I abandoned the effort. I was going to link two pieces of ready rod together via sprockets on either side of my big 1/2" wrist buster, and anchor it to a fixture to move it in and out on the ready rod with either a T-handle or a crank. Steve

 

[ScottNC]

Steve- Yup, like you I was planning on a half inch drive spud if using a drill. The bar is 1". The frame is cast iron so hopefully it'll not be too snarky to cut if the depth of cut is kept to a minimum until the hole rounds up. I think I'll try the drill first but have a backup plan for the pipe threader.

I drive right by the rental store on the way to a lathe, if the rental store has a pipe threader I'll stop by and assess what shape and size of adapter will be needed.

 

[stevieb49829]

Good luck. Let us know how it goes. Are you planning on an oversized bushing, or a spacer pressed in first?
Someday I may have to use mine. I built it out of a piece of 1-1/2 inch shaft. Fun to broach a square hole across that for the cutter. I drilled it, and filed and filed, and filed some more with a small 3 corner. But it turned out well. Just didn't need it, YET! steve

 

[ScottNC]

Plan is to bush back to stock. Currently waiting on bushings, supposed to ship around the 24th. There are no Case/David Brown available. . . well, the front is for $34! Found some for $7-8 each for a Volvo/Freightliner big truck. I.D./O.D. are the same, so is the split, bi-metal construction.

I'm gonna roll the dice and use (start with) a round hole with a square HS lathe bit. This set-up will be one and done. Having run various dedicated line bore machines; Berco and Scledum, I am aware a round hole with round shank w/a flat on one side is the go-to. Lathe work starts tomorrow.

 

[BarnyardEngineering]

Plan is to bush back to stock. Currently waiting on bushings, supposed to ship around the 24th. There are no Case/David Brown available. . . well, the front is for $34! Found some for $7-8 each for a Volvo/Freightliner big truck. I.D./O.D. are the same, so is the split, bi-metal construction.

I'm gonna roll the dice and use (start with) a round hole with a square HS lathe bit. This set-up will be one and done. Having run various dedicated line bore machines; Berco and Scledum, I am aware a round hole with round shank w/a flat on one side is the go-to. Lathe work starts tomorrow.

How about a mag drill? If you don't have one you can pick one up fairly cheap on vevor.

 

[ScottNC]

Had one offered but I failed to find a way to align on the good rear bushing hole while at the same time centering on the unworn bit of the bore remaining in the front hole. Plus, there's that interrupted cut with the tooling supported only on the one end. A rather small in comparison boring bar too.

 

[ScottNC]

Sourced material last week and borrowed a lathe Sunday. Spent the morning getting things set up and boring the hole. If I ever go there again I'd make up an additional boring bar support for between the front and read bushing boss. The bar was deflecting requiring tiny depth of cuts which made the process very slow going.