Texgasser1
Member
- Location
- East Texas
Made a set out of old oak, been using them for years. They are not just wood blocks set on the jaws, I drilled holes in them and mounted them on the vise like a set of jaws.
We had a set of brass inserts to protect sensitive parts in the vice at the shirt factory I worked in.Building my new shop and want to have a dedicated vise for sensitive stuff that could get damaged. Currently I am working on an ignition distributor for a Farmall 140 and the drive gear is held on with a solid pin. Upon trying to remove the gear, I damaged it in the vise trying to hammer the pin out. I HATE trying to use wood blocks to sandwich parts in the vise, cause it is like a fumble show and you need 5 hands to make it work. This time I wrapped the gear 3 times in a rag and clamped in a vise. It damaged the teeth on the gear, so now I need a gear........
Since I'm outfitting my shop, what is a good method to clamp stuff in without damaging. I also need a distributor gear if anyone has a good used one.
I would think so. An assortment of tiny files can be a life saver. I once built an engine someone else had taken apart. The rod and cap joints were serrated. They had pounded the piston/rods out with a steel punch and damaged some of the serrations. I filed them down and took the rods/caps to an engine machine shop for evaluation. They all measured good.Great info. Thank you all. I'll try some of the magnetic caps and the copper covers too.
I wonder If I can salvage my gear by putting a file on it?
I did what you are thinking about- I have a vise dedicated for sensitive work. I made set of vise jaws for it out of aluminum. ( I had it on hand) to replace the still jaws. Easy to make and when they get all cheeed up I just make another set.Building my new shop and want to have a dedicated vise for sensitive stuff that could get damaged. Currently I am working on an ignition distributor for a Farmall 140 and the drive gear is held on with a solid pin. Upon trying to remove the gear, I damaged it in the vise trying to hammer the pin out. I HATE trying to use wood blocks to sandwich parts in the vise, cause it is like a fumble show and you need 5 hands to make it work. This time I wrapped the gear 3 times in a rag and clamped in a vise. It damaged the teeth on the gear, so now I need a gear........
Since I'm outfitting my shop, what is a good method to clamp stuff in without damaging. I also need a distributor gear if anyone has a good used one.
I lay a shop towel between the jaws,,,, the more sensitive the subject, the more folds in the towel. This is seldom necessary for what I use the vise for. If I had frequent needs I'd try the aluminum angle iron method described here. gmBuilding my new shop and want to have a dedicated vise for sensitive stuff that could get damaged. Currently I am working on an ignition distributor for a Farmall 140 and the drive gear is held on with a solid pin. Upon trying to remove the gear, I damaged it in the vise trying to hammer the pin out. I HATE trying to use wood blocks to sandwich parts in the vise, cause it is like a fumble show and you need 5 hands to make it work. This time I wrapped the gear 3 times in a rag and clamped in a vise. It damaged the teeth on the gear, so now I need a gear........
Since I'm outfitting my shop, what is a good method to clamp stuff in without damaging. I also need a distributor gear if anyone has a good used one.
I know but trying to drive that pin out it was easiest to hold the gear and couldn't get the shaftPut the shaft in the vise, not the gear!
I did that this time and didn't notice the towel had fallen down enough to damage the teeth on gearI lay a shop towel between the jaws,,,, the more sensitive the subject, the more folds in the towel. This is seldom necessary for what I use the vise for. If I had frequent needs I'd try the aluminum angle iron method described here. gm
you cant be clamping a gear in a vise and pounding on it, that simple. isnt there a round section below the gear where the roll pin is ? it dont matter what u put in between the jaws your still clamping the gear. even setting the gear on a wooden v ed block will work , dont need a vise.I know but trying to drive that pin out it was easiest to hold the gear and couldn't get the shaft
That's how we made copper faces for our vices in the tool-room. Takes about 2 seconds to remove or replace them in the vice.I use aluminium angle , around a eighth of an inch thick . Two linserts ,one over each jaw hammered to fit the shape of my large vise. They sit nicely without needing to be held by hand and are soft enough not to mark delicate items .
If I wanted them permanently fixed a dab or two of mastic or silicone would be enough .
For very easily marked things I put a layer or two of duct tape over the inserts .
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