I just don't know what to do next.

Texgasser1

Member
Location
East Texas
So my JD 3010 gas tractor has been acting up, It was running terribly rough and bogging down sounded almost like it was miss firing.

Pulled it in the shed to work on it, Here is a list of symptoms.

All the plugs were covered in oil heavily.

Excessive oil under pooled the valve cover.

Changed the oil and thought I would drop the pan to check under there. Oil pan and a few other parts under there have bright yellow rust.

Oil pump O-ring is also broken, But I think That is fairly minor.

Daddy thinks It might need a new head gasket because of water in the pan.

I just don't know what to do next, It has been running fine, Was running perfect the day before all this started. Used it about 4 hours straight. Parked it and then this started the next morning.

Any help or thoughts would be appreciated.

Also is the oil pump screen suppose to just be a piece of hardware cloth??
 
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There was some missing from the radiator, Can't tell how much was in the oil, I just drained it into a bucket then dropped the pan.

What would that signify?
If the non oil liquid in the drained oil is antifreeze, the issue is serious enough to do further tests. A radiator pressure test, a combustion gasses in the radiator test kit, and looking for coolant in the lower end (with the pan off, and good light). Compression test, and cylinder leak down tests are also reasonable to do. Each has procedures needed to do them correctly. Jim
 
If the non oil liquid in the drained oil is antifreeze, the issue is serious enough to do further tests. A radiator pressure test, a combustion gasses in the radiator test kit, and looking for coolant in the lower end (with the pan off, and good light). Compression test, and cylinder leak down tests are also reasonable to do. Each has procedures needed to do them correctly. Jim
Here is the crux of the matter, The oil was already put in our oil disposal barrel I do not know if it was antifreeze, Also I don't actually know how to do any of those tests.
 
So my JD 3010 gas tractor has been acting up, It was running terribly rough and bogging down sounded almost like it was miss firing.

Pulled it in the shed to work on it, Here is a list of symptoms.

All the plugs were covered in oil heavily.

Excessive oil under pooled the valve cover.

Changed the oil and thought I would drop the pan to check under there. Oil pan and a few other parts under there have bright yellow rust.

Oil pump O-ring is also broken, But I think That is fairly minor.

Daddy thinks It might need a new head gasket because of water in the pan.

I just don't know what to do next, It has been running fine, Was running perfect the day before all this started. Used it about 4 hours straight. Parked it and then this started the next morning.

Any help or thoughts would be appreciated.

Also is the oil pump screen suppose to just be a piece of hardware cloth??
I had a similar problem with my retired Jubilee.
The oil was full of rust caused by condensation under the valve cover after sitting around for 5 years
So much condensation the #4 exhaust valve stem rusted open.
My fault for starting it up for a few minutes and not running it hard.
Now if I start it up I let it run for 20-30 minutes, get it hot. Sometimes I mow the yard with it.
These old girls don't take kindly to retirement . Even sitting around even inside a garage.
 
Here is the crux of the matter, The oil was already put in our oil disposal barrel I do not know if it was antifreeze, Also I don't actually know how to do any of those tests.
If the oil pan is still off, borrow, rent or buy a cooling system pressure tester. With coolant on the radiator the adapter attaches to the radiator in place of the cap. You pump it to pressurize the system. The gauge on it will have the points to test the system and the cap based on design pressure of the cooling system. Pump it up and see how quickly the pressure drops. With the pan of you can look up from underneath to see if cylinder liner sears (outside of the liner) are leaking or if coolant is coming down inside the liner. Coming down inside the liner could be head gasket, cracked head or eroded liner wall.

What is bright yellow rust? post pictures
 
If the oil pan is still off, borrow, rent or buy a cooling system pressure tester. With coolant on the radiator the adapter attaches to the radiator in place of the cap. You pump it to pressurize the system. The gauge on it will have the points to test the system and the cap based on design pressure of the cooling system. Pump it up and see how quickly the pressure drops. With the pan of you can look up from underneath to see if cylinder liner sears (outside of the liner) are leaking or if coolant is coming down inside the liner. Coming down inside the liner could be head gasket, cracked head or eroded liner wall.

What is bright yellow rust? post pictures
OK, Think the one from harbor freight is any good?
 
Additionally; If it has been running very long, with antifreeze in the crankcase, you might want to check the rod and main bearings, they don't like antifreeze. If the interior surfaces are rusty, I would be suspicious.
 
You never mentioned what the oil looked like. When you dumped the oil did it appear to have water in it? very much water in oil will make it look milky colored, like a grayish tint instead of black like engine oil that has some time on it. That would be the first indication you had a water problem. Now back to the regular scheduled program.
 
Well initial thoughts on the Maddox radiator pressure tester is I am ------. None of the 5 different styles of radiator cap adapters included fit my radiator. Now I have to find a different one.
 
Well initial thoughts on the Maddox radiator pressure tester is I am ------. None of the 5 different styles of radiator cap adapters included fit my radiator. Now I have to find a different one.
I have a Stant tester, it fits the common auto, truck, and tractor radiators with the cap on the radiator neck. And there is a washer that is used for some with deep necks.

Does the end on the Maddox pump fit directly on your radiator without an adapter? That is how the Stant one works.
 
I have a Stant tester, it fits the common auto, truck, and tractor radiators with the cap on the radiator neck. And there is a washer that is used for some with deep necks.

Does the end on the Maddox pump fit directly on your radiator without an adapter? That is how the Stant one works.
It is way to loose by itself, and all the adapters are too small.
 
It is way to loose by itself, and all the adapters are too small.
I used a HF tester on an oilallover radiator recently, the adapter fit, but the neck was extra tall so it didn't bottom out and seal.

I cut a gasket from some thick rubber sheeting to drop in the neck first, then installed the adapter and it sealed perfectly, I think your filler neck is identical or very similar to the one I was working with.
 
I used a HF tester on an oilallover radiator recently, the adapter fit, but the neck was extra tall so it didn't bottom out and seal.

I cut a gasket from some thick rubber sheeting to drop in the neck first, then installed the adapter and it sealed perfectly, I think your filler neck is identical or very similar to the one I was working with.
OK, I will find some rubber gasket and try again.
 
Well I found some gasket material and It seem the radiator does not pressurize at all, I am going to test my car next to see if it is a faulty tester.
 
Well I found some gasket material and It seem the radiator does not pressurize at all, I am going to test my car next to see if it is a faulty tester.
Do you have spacers enough under it that you have to push down to get the tester ears locked on the neck and it tightens with some force required? Pressure of the spring against the spacers is all that is making the seal hold.
 

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