I just don't know what to do next.

Yes, the oil pump screen is like hardware cloth? With the pan off, newspapers on floor, pressurize the coolant and see if you get any drips from up above over time. Bad sleeve o-ring, hole in sleeve, head gasket, bad block. Do as Jim ME told you. Something is letting anti-freeze to leak to the wrong places.
 
Before you warp out over the correct, and expensive, pressure test kit, remove the block drain and scew in a snifter valve, like on a well water pump system. Fill the system with water and install the original radiator cap. Then attach a hand tire pump to the valve and pressurize the system from there.

When the cap pressure is reached, it will let off the excess pressure. By then you should see the leak.
 
Before you warp out over the correct, and expensive, pressure test kit, remove the block drain and scew in a snifter valve, like on a well water pump system. Fill the system with water and install the original radiator cap. Then attach a hand tire pump to the valve and pressurize the system from there.

When the cap pressure is reached, it will let off the excess pressure. By then you should see the leak.
Would that be a 1/8 or 1/4 npt?
 
OK, So a little update here. I decided to take the intake manifold off, To look inside there and see what I could see. Cylinder 3-4-2 Looked good, Cylinder 1 looked like it had a bunch of fluid in it, Gas, oil, coolant, Not sure yet.
 
Not sure if anybody is still looking at this, There is no life in this tractor at all. Turns out the radiator is fine. I have compression tested it, all 4 cylinders were perfect.

I have replaced the coil and cleaned the distributor, It has new spark plug wires and a clean carb. I can not get so much as a sputter or a hiccup out of it. It cranks and that is it.
 
Not sure if anybody is still looking at this, There is no life in this tractor at all. Turns out the radiator is fine. I have compression tested it, all 4 cylinders were perfect.

I have replaced the coil and cleaned the distributor, It has new spark plug wires and a clean carb. I can not get so much as a sputter or a hiccup out of it. It cranks and that is it.
How did your pressure test go? How much pressure did you put on it and how long did you hold the pressure and watch for drips around the liners and pistons from the bottom?

Do you have a test light or voltmeter? Have you checked to see if there is power to the coil when the key is on? And when the starter is cranking the engine?

You "cleaned" the distributor, what did that entail? How do the points look? Did you use a piece of uncoated card stock, brown paper bag, or even a folded-up dollar bill to clean the point contacts?

Put ground the lead of a test light and put the probe on the coil terminal with the primary wire going to the coil and crank the engine over. Does the light flash as the engine turns over?
 
Not sure if anybody is still looking at this, There is no life in this tractor at all. Turns out the radiator is fine. I have compression tested it, all 4 cylinders were perfect.

I have replaced the coil and cleaned the distributor, It has new spark plug wires and a clean carb. I can not get so much as a sputter or a hiccup out of it. It cranks and that is it.
Does it have a good HOT spark?

Have you cleaned (sandblasted or burned clean with a torch) the sparkplugs or replaced them?

Sometimes after flooding or a no spark condition sparkplugs can LOOK OK but have a conductive coating on them that bleeds off spark and prevents an engine from firing.
 
Does it have a good HOT spark?

Have you cleaned (sandblasted or burned clean with a torch) the sparkplugs or replaced them?

Sometimes after flooding or a no spark condition sparkplugs can LOOK OK but have a conductive coating on them that bleeds off spark and prevents an engine from firing.
I'll clean the plugs off some more.
 
How did your pressure test go? How much pressure did you put on it and how long did you hold the pressure and watch for drips around the liners and pistons from the bottom?

Do you have a test light or voltmeter? Have you checked to see if there is power to the coil when the key is on? And when the starter is cranking the engine?

You "cleaned" the distributor, what did that entail? How do the points look? Did you use a piece of uncoated card stock, brown paper bag, or even a folded-up dollar bill to clean the point contacts?

Put ground the lead of a test light and put the probe on the coil terminal with the primary wire going to the coil and crank the engine over. Does the light flash as the engine turns over?
I pressured it up to 10 psi and held it for a few minutes. I watched for drips and saw nothing.

There is power to the coil.

I used a scouring pad to clean the points and contacts.
 
Any chance the spark plug wire are in correct order for opposite turning distributor.
I have seen it done before. You said it has new spark plug wire. Stuff happens.
Any black smoke when it does backfire??
 
Any chance the spark plug wire are in correct order for opposite turning distributor.
I have seen it done before. You said it has new spark plug wire. Stuff happens.
Any black smoke when it does backfire??
There is black smoke when it fires, I have tried the spark plugs both ways, no change.
 

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