I was thinking about buying a bigger generator to power

Bearings and seals are pretty generic items, I would bet they are available and cheap. The last pump I rebuilt a seal and bearing were <$15 total.
 
(quoted from post at 11:56:00 07/04/23) I'm pretty sure there has to be a transfer switch at the source, so it's idiot proof. Where is John T when we need him?
He is not telling us that he pulls the main breaker or the meter out of the incoming utility power.
 
(quoted from post at 08:27:50 07/04/23) When the power came back on the submersible pump was dead &amp; cost about $1500 to replace.

Now you can see my situation.
I don't want to pay for a new pump.
I know lock rotor amps can be 5 to 10x the running current.


What type of generator does your neighbor have
Inverter type generators are more efficient but don t work well with larger motors
They see the sudden high amperage demand needed to start the motor as a dead short

A 1/2 hp 120 volt motor draws 12.4 amps at full load, normall start up is around 1.5 times full load but can be higher depending on conditions, so normally it shouldn t take more than 18.5 amps to start your pump
Startup demand is dependent on the depth the pump hang down in the well, the startup water pressure the switch is set at along with the weight of the water the pump has to move as its starting
The number of stages the pump has is also a big factor on how easy the pump starts. More stages allows the pump the start easier and move water at deeper depths but it a lower gpm

My 5500 watt surge, 4500 watt continuous generator easily runs the 1/2 hp submersible pump in my reservoir, it will also power the operate the 40 gallon water heater, but not both at the same time.

Just me but plugging a 20 amp rated 12 gage wire into a 30 amp generator circuit doesn t sound like a good idea to me
 
My older 3500 watt generator will pull 1/2 hp pump and 2 freezers, 2 fridges and give us lights and TV.
My new one will do all that and more at 6500 watts.
I keep the old one as a backup.
 
I suspect you'll find the LRA to be much lower than you expect. First, because the rotor will not be 'locked' like an air compressor or heavy machine since it only has to overcome the inertia of the impellers, which are fairly small in diameter. By the time the rpm increased to the point water movement occurs you're passed the initial current surge.
 
I just discovered my noisy pump was caused by not oiling the brass bushing in over 40 years.

Oiled bushing and all is good. No noise, no more difficulty starting. Now I have a good backup pump I can use on my generator. No need for a bigger generator.

All is good on this 4th of July 2023. I'm a very happy camper. I don't drink, but I may pop open a can of A&W diet Root Beer!
 

For runs under 100ft , a 30Amp plug and 24amp continuous is fine with the proper temperature rating on the insulation .
Initial inrush current and for the first few cycles is much higher than 1.5 times on a single phase motor . Depending on the size of the start capacitors , rotor resistance etc. Typical inrush is 3-5 times name plate FLA from after the first 10 cycles until the motor reaches rated rpm .
 
> A hard start kit must to be connected to the start winding. You can't do that on a submersible pump that only has 2 wires coming out of the well.

That might be true for some of them, but in the case of the common Supco SPP6, it's wired on the run winding. It takes itself out of the circuit as its positive temperature coefficient relay heats up.
 
(quoted from post at 05:06:12 07/04/23) Backfeed??? I think that's a serious violation!

It is here.

Back feed a generator and kill a lineman could get you a Homicide charge.

Injure a lineman and you could face Wanton Endangerment.
 
Why screw around with all of this? Just get a transfer switch and a generator big enough to handle what you want to run. I have a 10k max/8k constant that runs anything I need in my house. Connect at the pole and forget it.
 

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