If I replace points, condensor, rotor and cap, is there anything left that can go wrong in a distrib.?

I got a distributor for my VAC from Ebay. The seller said he pulled it from a VAC and that it should work with points, condenser, etc.

I went ahead and got an ignition coil, plugs, wires, new cap, points, rotor, condenser.

My friend is coming to install the distributor with the new points and other parts on Monday.. Is there anything else I should be aware of that can be wrong on a distributor that would keep the engine from firing off?

I'm a beginner at this, so I appreciate any help.
 
I got a distributor for my VAC from Ebay. The seller said he pulled it from a VAC and that it should work with points, condenser, etc.

I went ahead and got an ignition coil, plugs, wires, new cap, points, rotor, condenser.

My friend is coming to install the distributor with the new points and other parts on Monday.. Is there anything else I should be aware of that can be wrong on a distributor that would keep the engine from firing off?

I'm a beginner at this, so I appreciate any help.
Worst case scenario, the shaft bushings are worn out, allowing a generous amount of slop back and forth or up and down. Also, even new condensers can be suspect as their quality has declined in recent years.
 
Worst case scenario, the shaft bushings are worn out, allowing a generous amount of slop back and forth or up and down. Also, even new condensers can be suspect as their quality has declined in recent years.
Good information. Agreed on recent decline in quality. Condenser, rotor, points, coil are all Echlin and from Napa.. I think Echlin has a good name.
 
You don't say what distributor you have? Common VAC factory distributor is Auto-lite IAD-6003-2F. The top drive shaft bearing gets slopped out b/c people don't timely add oil to the oiler on the side and sometimes the distributor is not mounted in the factory attitude to accommodate a vapor oiler which needs to be located below the vertical center line of the distributor. Oiler should have a felt piece in it to be soaked with oil.

Take the breaker plate off (IAD-2004) for access to the distributor governor. Clean everything, lightly oil the siding surfaces and work the flyweights back and forth. Springs should return the flyweights promptly & smoothly.
 

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A whole lot of things! But they are rare. What Don said plus the wire and terminal coming into the case can ground. Weights stuck if it has them, worn or damaged lobes same for the breaker plate. Safe to say each one of these has gotten me at least once.
 
You don't say what distributor you have? Common VAC factory distributor is Auto-lite IAD-6003-2F. The top drive shaft bearing gets slopped out b/c people don't timely add oil to the oiler on the side and sometimes the distributor is not mounted in the factory attitude to accommodate a vapor oiler which needs to be located below the vertical center line of the distributor. Oiler should have a felt piece in it to be soaked with oil.

Take the breaker plate off (IAD-2004) for access to the distributor governor. Clean everything, lightly oil the siding surfaces and work the flyweights back and forth. Springs should return the flyweights promptly & smoothly.
Thanks for your help

Yes sir, it is a correct autolite. I did exactly what you said and oiled it up, before installation.

My friend helped and we installed all the above mentioned parts & timed the engine up. The engine was spinning over good. If my new fuel bowl was here, my friend was certain the little VAC would have cranked up.

Like I said, we did oil it before installation.. Now, how often should I oil it now to ensure proper care? For what it's worth, this tractor is an ongoing restoration, so it'll never see any work again and will have an easy life as far as how often it is cranked up.
 
I got a distributor for my VAC from Ebay. The seller said he pulled it from a VAC and that it should work with points, condenser, etc.

I went ahead and got an ignition coil, plugs, wires, new cap, points, rotor, condenser.

My friend is coming to install the distributor with the new points and other parts on Monday.. Is there anything else I should be aware of that can be wrong on a distributor that would keep the engine from firing off?

I'm a beginner at this, so I appreciate any help.
Yes. The points,,,,again,,,,
 
Thanks for your help

Yes sir, it is a correct autolite. I did exactly what you said and oiled it up, before installation.

My friend helped and we installed all the above mentioned parts & timed the engine up. The engine was spinning over good. If my new fuel bowl was here, my friend was certain the little VAC would have cranked up.

Like I said, we did oil it before installation.. Now, how often should I oil it now to ensure proper care? For what it's worth, this tractor is an ongoing restoration, so it'll never see any work again and will have an easy life as far as how often it is cranked up.
Adding oil is something you have to figure out. When the distributor shaft rotates it creates a slight low pressure area (vacuum)at the oiler and draws some oil vapor into the bushing. Oil usage pends engine rpm and run time. I use my 310 about 100 hrs a year, I put a drop in the oiler every now and then but it would really need topped off about 2 or 3 times a year. It's important to have the felt piece and mounted oiler attitude as stated.
 
Look at he last 2 post on this thread. It took me awhile to figure this out
Wally
 

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