IH 2400 454 brakes

[Moosiani]

Hello all. I just bought a IH 2400 A or B. It is a diesel. It is not hydrostatic. It has a clutch pedal. Not sure exactly what it is because the serial number plate is missing. Its a diesel. Previous owner had it for about 4 years and wasn’t 100% sure what he had. Paid $4k for it. It’s the first machine I’ve ever owned.
1. First issue was loader wouldnt lower. Found slightly bent spool valve. Had is sanded down slightly on a lathe. Spool now moves in and out but only goes fully down in float mode and sometimes in lower mode but usually it will go down about 3 feet and start to rise. Any advice would be deeply appreciated on this.
2. Bought it with power steering not working and hoe wouldnt swivel. Filter looked new and screen was clean but i replaced it anyways. Then realized there was a relief valve missing and a plug was installed. Installed new relief valve ( from Michigan $400 after tax shipping and customs to Canada). Still not working. Removed multi control valve and found a cracked hyd pump (found on amazon for $240) probably because relief valve was MIA. PS works and hoe pivots now. Im pretty sure i saw in the manual that the brakes work off the same pump. Correct me if im wrong please. I want to try to bleed the brakes but I cant seem to find any bleeders. Any assistance on getting these brakes working would be great.
3. The owners manual shows the gear speed and high low shifter on the drivers side (left side). They are there but the manual shows the gear selector (first, second, third & forth) between the seat and the high neutral low shifter. In the machine and on the cover the high low neutral shifter is between the seat and the gear selector shifter. They each have for positions. Only the gear selector still has labels ( the shifter farthest from the seat). The manual says the high low neutral shifter also has reverse however forward and reverse are on the dash to the left of the steering wheel. In a nutshell i cant figure out how to properly operate this machines transmission. does anyone know how to drive this thing?

 

[caterpillar guy]

Not being around that particular model .It is an older version of the 574 which we have had since the 70's bought new .I would look down on top of the rear housing nuder the back side of the fuel tank there should be a couple bleeders yjat look kind of like a grease zerk to loosen and then bleed out till all the air is out . With a hoe on it it might be rather tough to get down in there where I would look for them. As for the transmission if it is like the 574 again it should be a small H pattern with low at the bottom or forward position and reverse all the way back and high would be in the middle and off to the side and down forward. Now with the reverser by the steering wheel it could be that is the only reverse is that one with only a high low lever beside the speed lever. Then your forward reverse lever on the dash/by steering wheel would be just that a forward and reverse with a hi and low range speed change available on it. So in essence you would just put the machine in a selected gear of high ot low range with a selected speed 1-4 then shift the reverser lever for forward or backward. I would suspect unless out in an open field or other open area that 2 in low range would be the appropriate speed selection for close work . As for the hydraulics I would also suspect it is much like the 574 only with either a separate pump for the hoe or a lot bigger one since 12GPM is not a very big pump to to run a hoe loader and lubricate the transmission on. Though the system should have a priority valve sending something like around 3GPM to the steering,transmission lube brakes and oil cooler then the rest would be available for the rest of the circuits if needed. It would be mounted on the back/inside of the MCV (multipule control valve). Probably runs close to 2500PSI pressure with the previously mentioned volume. I would also suspect there is a separate pump for the hoe and loader running off the transmission under your right foot with a canister filter about 4-8 inches in diameter and close to a foot long or close to that maybe only 8 inches long. Would have probably 3/4 hoses going to it. This is about the best I can offer without having been on one That model was used for a lot of different styles and jobs from farm tractors to forklifts.

 

[BarnyardEngineering]

These seem to be coming out of the woodwork lately. Knowledge of these machines is kind of lean because they were discontinued in 1983 when IH sold off the Construction division to Dresser. Dresser supported them for a few years until the supply of parts dried up, and that was it. Most of the contsruction-specific parts are NLA. You have to find a used machine, of which there are precious few, to rob parts from.

Hindsight being 20/20, probably not the best piece of equipment for your first-ever tractor. You would have been much better off with a 580C or newer series Case. Loads of knowledge and parts galore for those.

As I recall from a previous thread there is supposed to be a serial number tag for the tractor on the left side of the transmission "hump."

The 2400A's had a three-cylinder diesel, and the B's had a four-cylinder diesel. Again, as I recall.

I have absolutely no idea what is going on with your loader control valve.

Sounds like you have the wrong manual for your tractor or are misinterpreting yours. A normal 574 has the 4-speed shifter to the outside, and the range selector to the inside. There's no reason why the 2400A/B would be any different. Here's an image of the decal set for these tractors, showing the shifter pattern. One decal shows a high-neutral-low selector for tractors like yours with the optional reverser. The other shows a 4-position, high-low-neutral-reverse pattern for a tractor with the stock transmission.

Figuring out how to drive it is no big deal. You've only got the one lever that you don't know what it does, right? Put the 4-speed in 1st, put the reverser in forward, and try the four positions. One will make it go super slow. One will make it go significantly faster. One will make it go backwards. One will do nothing.

 

[Moosiani]

Not being around that particular model .It is an older version of the 574 which we have had since the 70's bought new .I would look down on top of the rear housing nuder the back side of the fuel tank there should be a couple bleeders yjat look kind of like a grease zerk to loosen and then bleed out till all the air is out . With a hoe on it it might be rather tough to get down in there where I would look for them. As for the transmission if it is like the 574 again it should be a small H pattern with low at the bottom or forward position and reverse all the way back and high would be in the middle and off to the side and down forward. Now with the reverser by the steering wheel it could be that is the only reverse is that one with only a high low lever beside the speed lever. Then your forward reverse lever on the dash/by steering wheel would be just that a forward and reverse with a hi and low range speed change available on it. So in essence you would just put the machine in a selected gear of high ot low range with a selected speed 1-4 then shift the reverser lever for forward or backward. I would suspect unless out in an open field or other open area that 2 in low range would be the appropriate speed selection for close work . As for the hydraulics I would also suspect it is much like the 574 only with either a separate pump for the hoe or a lot bigger one since 12GPM is not a very big pump to to run a hoe loader and lubricate the transmission on. Though the system should have a priority valve sending something like around 3GPM to the steering,transmission lube brakes and oil cooler then the rest would be available for the rest of the circuits if needed. It would be mounted on the back/inside of the MCV (multipule control valve). Probably runs close to 2500PSI pressure with the previously mentioned volume. I would also suspect there is a separate pump for the hoe and loader running off the transmission under your right foot with a canister filter about 4-8 inches in diameter and close to a foot long or close to that maybe only 8 inches long. Would have probably 3/4 hoses going to it. This is about the best I can offer without having been on one That model was used for a lot of different styles and jobs from farm tractors to forklifts.

Thanks for the quick response. Ill be looking for those brake bleeders again tomorrow when im at the machine. You mentioned a filter under the right foot side. There is a canister there that resembles a Kar brake chamber with the same sizes you mentioned. Is the primary hydraulic filter in there? The pump and filter are under the left side. I replaced both of them already. I just wasnt sure what the other air brake chamber look alike was for. I also dont see it anywhere in the manual.

 

[Moosiani]

These seem to be coming out of the woodwork lately. Knowledge of these machines is kind of lean because they were discontinued in 1983 when IH sold off the Construction division to Dresser. Dresser supported them for a few years until the supply of parts dried up, and that was it. Most of the contsruction-specific parts are NLA. You have to find a used machine, of which there are precious few, to rob parts from.

Hindsight being 20/20, probably not the best piece of equipment for your first-ever tractor. You would have been much better off with a 580C or newer series Case. Loads of knowledge and parts galore for those.

As I recall from a previous thread there is supposed to be a serial number tag for the tractor on the left side of the transmission "hump."

The 2400A's had a three-cylinder diesel, and the B's had a four-cylinder diesel. Again, as I recall.

I have absolutely no idea what is going on with your loader control valve.

Sounds like you have the wrong manual for your tractor or are misinterpreting yours. A normal 574 has the 4-speed shifter to the outside, and the range selector to the inside. There's no reason why the 2400A/B would be any different. Here's an image of the decal set for these tractors, showing the shifter pattern. One decal shows a high-neutral-low selector for tractors like yours with the optional reverser. The other shows a 4-position, high-low-neutral-reverse pattern for a tractor with the stock transmission.

Figuring out how to drive it is no big deal. You've only got the one lever that you don't know what it does, right? Put the 4-speed in 1st, put the reverser in forward, and try the four positions. One will make it go super slow. One will make it go significantly faster. One will make it go backwards. One will do nothing.
View attachment 80803

Thank you for sharing your knowledge. The gear selector is on the outside so you are correct there. And yes I have been questioning the manual I have possibly being the wrong one due to the fat not everything lines up between the manual and the machine. Also i didnt know that there was an optional reverse in the range selector. I believe my range selector has 4 positions which would indicate there is a reverse. Good to know. as far as driving it say down a road can I assume its just like a manual car. Clutch in , 1gear, accelerate to higher rpm then clutch in and shift and son or can I start in 2nd or 3rd or 4th gear from a dead stop? Ive driven other tractors and started in higher gears gears but I think they were hydrostatic. I just don’t remember.

 

[JimB2]

Hello, welcome to YT, what part of Canada do you live in, I live near Ottawa, ON. Disclaimer, I never owned a 2400A or physically examined one but have helped a few owners in the past with problems on their machine. I am familiar with the AG versions, 454,474,495,684,3230.
The 2400A can be a bit of a challenge as the later model ones were close in design to the 240A TBL than the original 2400A/B series.
A few questions first:
1) What manuals do you have?
2) Is it a 3 cyl D-179 Diesel engine?
3) Does it have a flat platform or does it have foot rests on either side of the transmission hump?
4) Does it have the Aux hydraulic pump mounted on the transmission case under the right side foot rest?

Re bleeding brakes, see youtube video:

Here is the method my brother and I have used for years
1) Warm hydraulic oil up by running engine at 1500 RPM for 5 to 10 minutes
2) Turn off engine
3) Open hydraulic filler hole behind seat on top of hydraulic housing, put a length of clear plastic tubing in the filler hole
4) Loosen bleeder screw on top of left axle, connect the other end of plastic tubing over bleeder screw.
5) Start engine again run at 1200 to 1500 RPM and watch the hydraulic oil flow through the tubing when it is free of large air bubbles then close the bleeder screw.
6) Shut off engine and repeat for right side.

Photo shows bleeder screw on left side of tractor just above the axle housing, same on right side but as Cat Guy says they may be difficult to see on your 2400A because of backhoe and other hydraulic hoses.

 

[BarnyardEngineering]

Thank you for sharing your knowledge. The gear selector is on the outside so you are correct there. And yes I have been questioning the manual I have possibly being the wrong one due to the fat not everything lines up between the manual and the machine. Also i didnt know that there was an optional reverse in the range selector. I believe my range selector has 4 positions which would indicate there is a reverse. Good to know. as far as driving it say down a road can I assume its just like a manual car. Clutch in , 1gear, accelerate to higher rpm then clutch in and shift and son or can I start in 2nd or 3rd or 4th gear from a dead stop? Ive driven other tractors and started in higher gears gears but I think they were hydrostatic. I just don’t remember.

The reverse on the range lever is not "optional" per se. The tractor should have a reverser on the steering console, or it should have a reverse on the range lever. One or the other, not both.

One question, does your range lever have an "H" pattern or is it just a straight line? You may simply have the High-Neutral-Low selections, but are feeling a "phantom" position.

The transmission on that tractor is NOT synchronized. You'll find that out quite quickly when you try to shift on the fly and it grinds horribly. There's nothing wrong. It's just not synchronized. If you ever drove a non-synchronized vehicle, you'll know that you need to match engine speed to ground speed, double clutch, to shift smoothly.

 

[Moosiani]

Forgot to hit reply. Tried deleting. Wont let me.

 

[Moosiani]

Hello, welcome to YT, what part of Canada do you live in, I live near Ottawa, ON. Disclaimer, I never owned a 2400A or physically examined one but have helped a few owners in the past with problems on their machine. I am familiar with the AG versions, 454,474,495,684,3230.
The 2400A can be a bit of a challenge as the later model ones were close in design to the 240A TBL than the original 2400A/B series.
A few questions first:
1) What manuals do you have?
2) Is it a 3 cyl D-179 Diesel engine?
3) Does it have a flat platform or does it have foot rests on either side of the transmission hump?
4) Does it have the Aux hydraulic pump mounted on the transmission case under the right side foot rest?

Re bleeding brakes, see youtube video:

Here is the method my brother and I have used for years
1) Warm hydraulic oil up by running engine at 1500 RPM for 5 to 10 minutes
2) Turn off engine
3) Open hydraulic filler hole behind seat on top of hydraulic housing, put a length of clear plastic tubing in the filler hole
4) Loosen bleeder screw on top of left axle, connect the other end of plastic tubing over bleeder screw.
5) Start engine again run at 1200 to 1500 RPM and watch the hydraulic oil flow through the tubing when it is free of large air bubbles then close the bleeder screw.
6) Shut off engine and repeat for right side.

Photo shows bleeder screw on left side of tractor just above the axle housing, same on right side but as Cat Guy says they may be difficult to see on your 2400A because of backhoe and other hydraulic hoses.

View attachment 80819

Hello and thanks for responding. Im just north of Toronto. You wrote 240A TBL. What’s TBL? Some of the info in the manuals dont line up with the tractor so there’s a good chance i dont have a 2400 although the hood does say 2400. The serial plate is MIA.
1. Have a the owners manual, service manual, engine manual and a manual for the loader and hoe. I believe there’s 7 manuals but not sure.
2. It’s a 3 cylinder dIesel
3. It has two foot rests one on either side of the trany hump.
4. Theres a pump which i replaced on the left side for the hoe pivot and steering. The right side has a canister that resembles an air brake chamber with thick hyd lines going in and out of it. Im assuming its the filter for the main pump but it shows nothing of this in my manuals.
So today i bled the brakes. Left side is working. Right side is on vacation still. Fluid with air came out. Ran it with the bleeder open for about 10 minutes the second time I tried. It appears the oil has very little aeration buy only on the right side. Do i attack the master cylinder next? I dont see any leaks but i also dont have the greatest view.

 

[Moosiani]

The reverse on the range lever is not "optional" per se. The tractor should have a reverser on the steering console, or it should have a reverse on the range lever. One or the other, not both.

One question, does your range lever have an "H" pattern or is it just a straight line? You may simply have the High-Neutral-Low selections, but are feeling a "phantom" position.

The transmission on that tractor is NOT synchronized. You'll find that out quite quickly when you try to shift on the fly and it grinds horribly. There's nothing wrong. It's just not synchronized. If you ever drove a non-synchronized vehicle, you'll know that you need to match engine speed to ground speed, double clutch, to shift smoothly.

Ok so i just got back from the machine. The gears are in a straight line. No H pattern. You are correct about the forward and reverse on the dash. The gear selector is also like you said, high neutral and low. I actually took it for a spin today and yes them gears going when shifting. I wasnt sure why but now that you said its a synced transmission that makes perfect sense. from my little short tour around today it appears high would only be used when relocating the machine say down a street. Ill be using on my property and dont have any intentions to drive it down the street so low range will be always used By the looks of it. I bled the brakes. The bleeder screws were actually on the loose side if anything. They cracked open to easily. The left side bled quick and cleared the air fast. The left side works and even after the little tour the pedal is hard. The right side doesnt work at all. No pedal whatsoever. There seems to be a constant stream of air rated hyd oil coming through the transparent bleeder hose i used. Do i need to rebuild the right side master cylinder? I also did not block off the return hose to bleed either side simply because out of the 3 hoses available to choose from I wasnt sure which one was which. Nevertheless without crimping off the return hose the left side immediately started to work. what is my next step to get braking power at the right wheel?

 

[caterpillar guy]

Being I have not had one of the models with the canister personally I would say yes there is a filter inside. Probably need to loosen the clamp on one end and it would come off similar to the brake chambers you mention in one post. Or like the old Luberefiner filters were. Now for the brake if it will pump up at all I would guess it is more in the piston and lining in the axle than the master cylinder and both about as hard to get to. One is in under the bottom of the dash like at the top of the hump and the other needs the axles housing pulled to get to it. Thus the reason I say on is about as bad as the other one easier to get at just a lot heavier. As for the auxiliary pump it would be mounted in by that canister filter as part of a round casting bolted to the side of the transmission housing with a protrusion for the pump to bolt on something like a PTO unit on a semi transmission only bigger. With a large line from it to your control vales on the hoe and loader and one returning from the filter to the pump with one returning from the transmission to the filter. Or some such similar set up for them. Then ther is probably another filter on the left side on the MCV it will look something like a grain bin laying on it's side with the bolt head at the peak . Loosen the bolt with a pail under there and the filter should be inside that cover. there is also a screen that goes in the end/side of the filter with the bolt running through it. You will probably about a gallon or 2 while doing this. I use a clean pail then strain the oil and let set and then pour part of it back in some times depneding on the oil and the tractor one with a lot of leaks yes. A nice clean tight no leaker model I toss the oil.

 

[Moosiani]

Being I have not had one of the models with the canister personally I would say yes there is a filter inside. Probably need to loosen the clamp on one end and it would come off similar to the brake chambers you mention in one post. Or like the old Luberefiner filters were. Now for the brake if it will pump up at all I would guess it is more in the piston and lining in the axle than the master cylinder and both about as hard to get to. One is in under the bottom of the dash like at the top of the hump and the other needs the axles housing pulled to get to it. Thus the reason I say on is about as bad as the other one easier to get at just a lot heavier. As for the auxiliary pump it would be mounted in by that canister filter as part of a round casting bolted to the side of the transmission housing with a protrusion for the pump to bolt on something like a PTO unit on a semi transmission only bigger. With a large line from it to your control vales on the hoe and loader and one returning from the filter to the pump with one returning from the transmission to the filter. Or some such similar set up for them. Then ther is probably another filter on the left side on the MCV it will look something like a grain bin laying on it's side with the bolt head at the peak . Loosen the bolt with a pail under there and the filter should be inside that cover. there is also a screen that goes in the end/side of the filter with the bolt running through it. You will probably about a gallon or 2 while doing this. I use a clean pail then strain the oil and let set and then pour part of it back in some times depneding on the oil and the tractor one with a lot of leaks yes. A nice clean tight no leaker model I toss the oil.

Wouldn’t you think that if one side works fine then the other should still have friction material left as well? Thats why im aiming towards the master cylinder. Also the master cylinder appears much easier to replace and by far cheaper than the pistons and friction material. I would think taking apart the rear axel is a bit of a project and like you mentioned much heavier. my question to you is is there a way to diagnose exactly which one is the issue or do i go with the [rocess of elimination and do the master first?

 

[jwal10]

Follow the brake line near the battery, there is an filter/orifice for each line. The line needs to have an incline to the high spot and then drop over in a gradual slope down, and acts like a reservoir. If it goes up and down, after the filter/orifice it will get air in the line and have no brakes. Also check that the filter is not plugged. 2400 is the industrial version of the 454. 2400B is the 464. The 2500 is the version of the 574....James

 

[JimB2]

Hello and thanks for responding. Im just north of Toronto. You wrote 240A TBL. What’s TBL? Some of the info in the manuals dont line up with the tractor so there’s a good chance i dont have a 2400 although the hood does say 2400. The serial plate is MIA.
1. Have a the owners manual, service manual, engine manual and a manual for the loader and hoe. I believe there’s 7 manuals but not sure.
2. It’s a 3 cylinder dIesel
3. It has two foot rests one on either side of the trany hump.
4. Theres a pump which i replaced on the left side for the hoe pivot and steering. The right side has a canister that resembles an air brake chamber with thick hyd lines going in and out of it. Im assuming its the filter for the main pump but it shows nothing of this in my manuals.
So today i bled the brakes. Left side is working. Right side is on vacation still. Fluid with air came out. Ran it with the bleeder open for about 10 minutes the second time I tried. It appears the oil has very little aeration buy only on the right side. Do i attack the master cylinder next? I dont see any leaks but i also dont have the greatest view.

Re TBL is Tractor Backhoe Loader, 3 cyl Diesel is D-179 same as 454 AG tractor, two foot rests with trans hump in the middle indicates that it is a 2400 but could be 2400A, 2400B, I don't know if there was a 2400C but I have seen a post a few years ago with someone with 2400D, then I believe the last model with the redesigned cab with the flat cab floor, clutch and brakes under the dash was a 240A, larger engines made then 250A, 260A and 270A.
Re Aux hydraulic pump on the right side, the hydraulic level in the trans/diff case must be much higher than the hash marks on the dipstick see link:

International 2400 D Backhoe loader

I recently bought a 1972 I2400 D backhoe loader with a Wainroy backhoe and what appears to be a 2050A loader. The serial no is 2230062U 001765 made in Chicago Il . It has two hydraulic pumps one side mounted (rhs) and one normal (lhs) as per the IH454 tractor. I understand the hydraulic oil has t...

www.redpowermagazine.com

Re Brakes, see photo below, the brake hydraulic fluid is supplied from a "T" off the oil cooler return line from the front of the Rad and is located on the right side by the battery box. Lines #6 feed the master cylinders and each line has an orifice and screen in it to restrict flow and catch dirt in the screen. The other long line is the overflow back to the transmission and that is the line to pinch off if the brakes will not bleed properly.
Be careful pinching that line off as it maybe well aged, I have used vise grips with two pieces of thin wood taped to the jaws of the vice grips to clamp off the return line. You can also when bleeding the brakes you can slowly pump, hold, release and pump again to see if you can get your right brake to work. If it doesn't squirt oil out the bleeder when you pump then either the master cylinder is not getting oil or the seals in the master cylinder are damaged. Note: If the O-rings on the brake pistons in the axles are leaking, you do not want to depress the brake pedals without the engine running or you will get air in the brakes. The next version tractors like 484 had a plastic reservoir that held a supply of hydraulic oil for the brakes.
Use the sent email at the top right of this web page and send me an email and I will email you a copy on my 270A manual as it has some info about the hydraulics and that aux hydraulic pump.
I think you have figured out the gear shifting, gears 1-4 are synchronized, Lo, Hi, must stop to change, FWD, REV depress clutch stop or almost stop.

 

[caterpillar guy]

Well like JImB2 said you could try the pump up then loosen bleeder and see if you get any oil out the bleeder if not then also like he stated the master cylinder is probably the culprit. Though if those lines have a filter /screen in either or both of them.I would try looking at them since if plugged there would be no flow through them. This might also be your whole problem to the no brake on the right side. As for the piston in the axle it would not be that bad if you only needed the o-rings to seal it up. If it got into replacing the friction discs then it would get considerably more costly. As for the master cylinders I don't know if they can be resealed or if you have to just replace the whole unit. To do the pump and bleed method it will take a helper to loosen the bleeder or pump the pedal.

 

[JimB2]

Re Brake master cylinders, there are two different styles, the older tractors had the external brake equalizer and the newer version had the equalizer built into the master cylinder.
According to caseih.com parts:
CASE IH - Brake Cylinder Assembly - 527542R92, CASE IH - SEAL KIT - 3125824R1. These parts are available at this YT site but the local distributor for us in Ontario is Fawcett Tractor Supply in St. Mary's, Ontario.
Make sure the brake equalizer is working properly and both brake pedals are returning to the Home position.
The equalizer can be removed out of the brake circuit for a test.

Youtube resealing 484 brake master cylinder. link:

Equalizer rebuild link:

 

[Moosiani]

Follow the brake line near the battery, there is an filter/orifice for each line. The line needs to have an incline to the high spot and then drop over in a gradual slope down, and acts like a reservoir. If it goes up and down, after the filter/orifice it will get air in the line and have no brakes. Also check that the filter is not plugged. 2400 is the industrial version of the 454. 2400B is the 464. The 2500 is the version of the 574....James

Hello. Can you be more specific on the exact location of the filter/orfice location Please? I know its in a line somewhere. Is a metal line or rubber? Is it near the master cyclinder? Also you said “if it goes up and down after the orfice”. How do I know which way the fluid travels? Is there only one filter or 2, 1 for each line?

 

[Moosiani]

Re Brake master cylinders, there are two different styles, the older tractors had the external brake equalizer and the newer version had the equalizer built into the master cylinder.
According to caseih.com parts:
CASE IH - Brake Cylinder Assembly - 527542R92, CASE IH - SEAL KIT - 3125824R1. These parts are available at this YT site but the local distributor for us in Ontario is Fawcett Tractor Supply in St. Mary's, Ontario.
Make sure the brake equalizer is working properly and both brake pedals are returning to the Home position.
The equalizer can be removed out of the brake circuit for a test.

Youtube resealing 484 brake master cylinder. link:

Equalizer rebuild link:

Ok so I removed the master and took it apart. I saw nothing wrong. Seals looked good, still soft and not torn. Of course at that point I rebuilt it and no change. What did puzzle me was that the right pedal controls the master on the left side and vise versa. I find it odd that they designed it like that. Am I correct about their design or did I rebuild the wrong MC? Reason for asking is because there’s no difference in the right side of the system. Im just wondering and hoping I did something wrong because I do not want to rip apart the rear diff to do the brakes.

 

[jwal10]

Remove cover over battery, it is in there on the brake line that comes from the cooler in front of radiator and feeds the brake master cylinder. Newer models have a little plastic reservoir. Remove Orifice and run the tractor at about 1500 rpm, or more. The orifice is just pushed into a piece of rubber tube right near the highest part of the brake line. There should be flow out of this line. When you have flow, pump the brakes and bleed like you would a car. I put a piece of tubing on the bleeder and let the fluid rise in the tube so you don't create a bubble in the system, you can run the fluid up and into the fill hole....James

https://s3.us-east-2.amazonaws.com/redpowerphotos/monthly_2018_08/357029088_7484serieshydrauliccircuit..jpg.b77286c668f1fbbbeafa9f0c68fb55cb.jpg

 

[JimB2]

Hi, you are correct, right pedal on the left side, it is that way because of the brake pedal shaft design.
Since you had the line off the master cylinder, you could have performed an air pressure test.
Remove the hydraulic reservoir filler plug behind the seat then apply air pressure to the brake line that run to the axle housing, if you can hear air hissing through the hydraulic reservoir filler hole then the brake piston O-rings are leaking.
Did you see a good flow of hydraulic oil on that MC on the input line? The screen on the input line was clean?